Copper-red multiplier shallot grown from sets for clusters of aromatic bulbs with reddish-purple flesh. Best planted in cool weather and finished as days lengthen in late spring to early summer. Key facts: 90–120 days to maturity, 6+ hours of sun, 4–6 " spacing. Container-friendly (minimum 2-gallon pot).
Updated June 1, 2026·Backed by 1 cited source
Overview
At a Glance
The essentials first: timing, light, spacing, seed-starting, container fit, and overall size.
Days to maturity
90–120 days
Sun
6+ hours
Full Sun
Spacing
4–6 "
between plants
Seed start
0 weeks
before transplant
Container
Yes
2+ gallon pot
Height
0.75–1.5 ft
at maturity
Planting window
Zone Planting Guide
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Care
Growing Guide
Everything in one place: seed starting, transplant timing, watering, soil, and structural support.
A seedling killer caused by several different fungi working together. It hits vegetables, flowers, herbs, microgreens, and cover-crop seedlings the same way — seeds rot before they emerge, or young seedlings collapse right at the soil line. Wet seed-starting mix and poor airflow in seedling trays are the classic conditions.
Triggers: Wet soil or starting mix, poor drainage, seedlings packed too tightly, contaminated trays or media, and stagnant air all favor damping-off.
Risk fades when: Drying the soil surface and improving airflow slows new spread. Collapsed seedlings don't recover, but the rest of the tray can be saved.
Damping off of coffee seedlings caused by Fusarium sp. — Photo:
Scot Nelson
·
CC0 1.0
Onion maggotDelia antiqua
High
Pest
Apr–MayPeak window months: Apr, May.
Onion maggot is the most important early-season pest of onions, leeks, and garlic in northern temperate regions. Larvae feed on bulb basal plates and roots, killing plants and predisposing damaged bulbs to storage rot. First-generation damage can routinely reduce plant stands by over 50%. Three generations occur annually in northern regions; only the first is typically devastating to a young crop.
Triggers: Three generations per year in northern regions. Overwinter as pupae in soil. Adults emerge late April-May. Adult: small grayish-yellow fly resembling slender housefly. Females lay eggs at soil base of onion plants.
On Holland Red Shallot: Larvae feed on roots and developing bulbs.
Prevention: Rotate crops and avoid planting near fresh allium debris.
Risk fades when: NYSIPM
White rotSclerotium cepivorum / Stromatinia cepivora
High
Disease
MarPeak window months: Mar.
SoilStack treats this entry as allium white rot for field alert purposes, rather than Botrytis neck rot (which is mostly a post-harvest storage issue). White rot is allium-specific and causes yellowing, wilt, decay of the basal plate (where roots attach), white fungal growth, and tiny black poppy-seed-like resting bodies (sclerotia). It thrives in cool, moist soil.
Triggers: Cool moist soil favors infection. Development is optimal around 60-65°F and slows sharply above the upper 70s.
On Holland Red Shallot: Excess soil moisture and poor drainage.
Prevention: Use raised beds or loose soils and stop heavy watering as harvest approaches.
Risk fades when: White rot is markedly inhibited above 78°F and reduced by drying soil, though the sclerotia persist in soil for years.
Allium rustPuccinia allii complex (syn. P. porri on leek)
Moderate
Disease
May–AugPeak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.
An allium-specific rust on garlic, onion, leek, shallot, and chives. Produces orange to reddish pustules on older leaves first. Favored by cool, humid weather.
Triggers: Optimal infection is near 59°F with saturated humidity for several hours. The disease stays active in cool 57-75°F weather with dew or high humidity.
Risk fades when: Rust thrives in cool saturated air. Dry foliage or heat above the favorable range lowers new infection pressure.
Aphids are soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on tender new growth. Most established plants tolerate moderate populations and will outgrow damage on their own, but aphids are the most important plant virus vectors in the garden, transmitting more than 100 plant viruses including potato leafroll, cucumber mosaic, and turnip mosaic. Honeydew excreted while feeding supports sooty mold growth and attracts ants that protect aphids from natural enemies.
Triggers: Optimal development at ~75°F (green peach aphid) per UC IPM Floriculture; melon aphid develops fastest above 75°F. Many species heat-intolerant above 90°F and crash in mid-summer. Soft new growth and over-fertilization with high N favor population buildup. Females give live birth parthenogenetically most of growing season — one generation in ~1 week under optimal conditions.
Risk fades when: Per UC IPM and Clemson HGIC, populations crash in mid-summer heat (>90°F) for many species, return in cooler conditions
Small bulbsCrowding, drought, or too little fertility during leaf growth.
Moderate
Physiological
No data
Crowding, drought, or too little fertility during leaf growth.
On Holland Red Shallot: Crowding, drought, or too little fertility during leaf growth.
Prevention: Space sets properly and keep growth steady through spring.
ThripsFrankliniella occidentalis (western flower thrips), F. tritici (eastern flower thrips), F. fusca (tobacco thrips), Thrips tabaci (onion thrips)
Moderate
Pest
SpringPeak window months: Mar, Apr, May.
Thrips are tiny (1/16 inch) slender insects with fringed wings that puncture and rasp leaf surfaces, leaving silver stippling with black frass dots. The biggest concern is virus vectoring: western flower thrips is the principal vector of tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV) and impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV), which affect more than 600 plant species. Greenhouse and high tunnel infestations can be devastating.
Triggers: Hot dry weather; greenhouse/high tunnel environments. Female lays eggs inside leaf tissue. 2 larval stages feed; 2 non-feeding pupal stages in soil/litter. Lifecycle 10-21 days. Many overlapping generations. Bridge crops (spring wheat, peach, strawberry per NC State) build populations before vegetable hosts available.
Leafminers are tiny fly larvae that feed between the upper and lower surfaces of leaves, creating winding pale tunnels or blotchy patches. They rarely kill plants but can ruin the marketability of leafy greens grown for foliage. Allium leafminer is an emerging pest in the eastern US (first detected in Pennsylvania in 2017) that damages onions, garlic, leeks, and chives.
Triggers: Liriomyza trifolii: 1 generation in ~1 month at typical greenhouse temps, 14 days at 95°F, 64 days at 59°F (UC IPM). Adults active mid-day. Allium leafminer emerges late March-early April, second flight September-October. Broad-spectrum insecticides trigger outbreaks by killing parasitoids.
Risk fades when: UMD
Feeding & picking
Nutrition & Harvest
How hungry the plant is, what ripe harvest looks like, and how long the crop keeps after picking.
Feeding
Nutrition
Feeding intensityModerate feeder
RecipesWorm Castings Topdress, Root Drench
Timing
Harvest
Most tops have fallen or yellowed and outer skins are papery.
Expected yield0.25–0.75 lbs/plant
Storage180 days — Cure thoroughly, then store in a cool, dry, airy place.
Plant relationships
Companion Planting
Helpful neighbors can support growth or deter pests. Keep antagonistic plants separated to reduce stress and competition.
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What you'll need
Growing Supplies
Based on Holland Red Shallot's growth profile -- recommendations matched to this variety's specific requirements.
Seed starting tray + heat mat
For gardeners who start seeds indoors, this combo improves even germination. Warm-season crops benefit from bottom heat. Look for a rigid tray, cell inserts with drainage, and a heat mat paired with a thermostat.
Source: Utah State University Extension; Iowa State University Extension; Mississippi State University Extension
Nearly every garden benefits from mulch for weed suppression, moisture conservation, and soil temperature moderation. For most home gardeners, quality organic mulch is the better buy over landscape fabric.
Source: Penn State Extension; Wisconsin Horticulture; Illinois Extension
Every gardener benefits from putting water at the root zone instead of on the leaves, because drip and soaker systems reduce foliar disease pressure by limiting leaf wetness and soil splash. A quality kit should include a backflow preventer, filter, pressure reducer, and UV-resistant tubing.
Source: Iowa State University Extension; Colorado State University Extension; UMass Extension
Row cover adds frost protection, speeds early growth, and physically excludes insect pests without spraying. Look for spun-bonded fabric with a stated weight and frost rating, UV resistance, and enough width for hoops or low tunnels.
Source: University of Maryland Extension; University of New Hampshire Extension; Colorado State University Extension
K-State Research and Extension and University of Maryland Extension recommend shade cloth as a heat-management tool for vegetable gardens, with 30 percent shade rating most effective for tomatoes, peppers, and fruiting crops, and 40 to 50 percent for protecting heat-sensitive greens during hot summer months. University of Delaware research found 30 percent black shade cloth tripled marketable yield for bell peppers compared to unshaded plants, and Purdue trials showed shade cloth reduced maximum daily temperatures by 8 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Choose knitted polyethylene with reinforced grommets every 18 to 24 inches, mount on hoops or a frame with open sides for airflow, and remove or vent during prolonged wet weather to avoid increased humidity in the canopy.
Source: K-State Research and Extension; University of Maryland Extension; University of Delaware Cooperative Extension; Purdue University Extension
Reflective plastic mulch (white-on-black or silver)
North Carolina State Extension reports that white-on-black plastic mulch can reduce soil temperature by 5 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit and silver mulch by about 6 degrees, the opposite effect of black mulch which warms soil. This makes reflective mulch the appropriate plasticulture choice for hot zones (especially Zone 9a desert and other high-heat low-humidity areas) where overheating limits warm-season crop performance more than cold soil. Silver mulch adds documented aphid and thrips repellency from the reflective surface. Use only with drip irrigation installed underneath, never use plastic mulch without irrigation, and reserve for late spring or early fall plantings where the surrounding heat is the primary stress.
Source: North Carolina State Extension; University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
A soil test gives a baseline for pH and nutrient status so gardeners can add only what the soil actually needs. Prioritize a mail-in or lab-affiliated kit whenever possible because extension guidance notes that laboratory testing is more accurate than instant readers.
Source: University of Maryland Extension; Purdue Extension; Montana State University Extension
University of Minnesota Extension recommends measuring soil temperature 2 to 4 inches below the surface to decide when warm-season crops can actually be planted, because air temperature and average frost dates do not reliably predict whether soil is warm enough for germination. A dedicated soil thermometer with a 4 to 6 inch stainless steel probe gives gardeners a deterministic reading instead of relying on the calendar alone, which matters most in zones with wide last-frost variability. Look for a waterproof stainless steel stem, a clearly marked vegetable-garden temperature range, and a readable analog or digital display at planting depth.
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension notes that most vegetables root in the top 12 to 24 inches of soil and that hot, dry periods require more frequent irrigation, but watering by habit often wets only the top inch while leaving the root zone dry. A dedicated soil moisture meter with a long probe gives gardeners a deterministic reading at root depth instead of guessing from surface appearance, which is most critical in low-rainfall desert zones (Zone 9a Phoenix) and in raised beds or containers that dry from the top down. Look for a single-purpose moisture meter (not a 3-in-1 or 4-in-1 combo, which trade accuracy for feature count) with a probe that reaches 8 to 12 inches and a clear analog or digital display.
Source: University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
UF/IFAS Extension and Texas A&M AgriLife Extension recommend securing or removing trellises, shade cloth, hoop covers, container plants, and lightweight raised-bed accessories before tropical storms and hurricanes, since loose garden items become projectiles in high winds. Most-relevant for Gulf Coast Zone 8b (Houston, Mobile, New Orleans), Florida Zone 9b (Miami, Tampa), and any coastal area within the Atlantic and Gulf hurricane corridors. Galvanized steel ground anchors resist rust in humid coastal soils, and screw-in spiral anchors hold significantly better than driven stakes in saturated soil during storm conditions. Use quick-release fasteners on shade cloth and trellises so they can be removed quickly when a storm watch is issued.
Extension guidance favors bypass designs because they make cleaner, closer cuts on living tissue than anvil types. Look for hardened steel blades that can be sharpened, a comfortable grip, and a cutting capacity matched to real home-garden stems.
Source: University of New Hampshire Extension; Iowa State University Extension; Purdue University Extension
Raised beds improve drainage, let gardeners control soil from day one, reduce compaction, and make gardening more accessible. A quality kit should use rot-resistant, food-safe materials and provide enough depth for productive rooting.
Source: Penn State Extension; University of Delaware Cooperative Extension; Illinois Extension
The most useful mix is three categories: a beginner guide, a reference manual for diagnosis and crop-by-crop lookup, and a soil science book. Look for region-aware editions, strong visuals, and evidence-based authorship.
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Research
Sources
Reference material and extension guidance used to build this growing guide.
university UMN Extension - Growing onions in home gardens
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