Jerusalem artichoke tubers

A virus spread by the beet leafhopper (*Circulifer tenellus*), mainly a problem in the western US — California, Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, New Mexico, Utah, and Washington. It has a broad host range, infecting beets, tomatoes, peppers, beans, and cucurbits. Infected plants develop curled, thickened leaves with purple-tinged veins on the undersides, stunted growth, and fruit that ripens prematurely. The leafhopper transmits the virus while migrating: it lands and briefly probes plants, and a single feeding of just a few seconds is enough to infect.

Triggers: Driven by leafhopper migration, not weather directly. The bugs overwinter in foothill weeds and head for gardens in late spring once the wild vegetation dries up. Hot, dry years push more of them into populated areas. Symptoms show up 7-14 days after a single leafhopper visit — and a single bite is all it takes.

Risk fades when: Migration peaks in late spring; once the main wave passes, transmission risk drops sharply. The virus doesn't hide in soil or plant debris between seasons, so risk resets each year.

A soil-borne fungus (*Sclerotium rolfsii*) that attacks plant stems right at the soil line during hot weather. It hits over 500 different plant species. Two telltale signs to look for: white fan-shaped fungal growth on the lower stem, mulch, and soil surface, and tan-brown spherical sclerotia (they look like mustard seeds) on infected tissue. Most active during sustained heat with humid conditions.

Triggers: Optimal at 86°F (30°C) soil and air temperature with humid conditions. Inactive below 70°F. Most damaging during sustained mid- to late-summer heat waves. It extends further north in warmer-than-normal seasons.

Risk fades when: Sustained cooler weather — highs below 80°F and overnight lows below 70°F for 5+ days — reduces fungal activity. The sclerotia (resting bodies) persist in soil for years, so resolution is seasonal, not curative.

Bacterial soft rot is what turns a firm tuber into a foul-smelling mush. Wisconsin Extension identifies the culprits as several bacteria - most commonly Pectobacterium carotovorum, formerly called Erwinia carotovora, along with Dickeya dadantii and certain Pseudomonas, Bacillus and Clostridium species. They secrete enzymes that dissolve the pectin holding plant cells together, liquefying the tissue so they can feed on the contents. The bacteria specialise in fleshy storage organs - tubers, corms, bulbs and rhizomes - which is exactly what sunchokes and crosnes are, and they attack across nearly all plant families. Crucially, they need a way in. Wisconsin notes they enter through wounds caused by tools, insects and severe weather such as hail, as well as through natural openings. That makes careless lifting the commonest cause of a rotten harvest: a spade nick, a bruise, a snapped tuber. The disease is worse in wet weather, and more severe where plants lack sufficient calcium. There is no cure. Once soft rot bacteria have infected the tissue, no treatment exists - the only response is to remove and discard affected material immediately, before it spreads through a stored crop.

Triggers: Wisconsin Horticulture (UW-Madison Extension): soft rots are caused by several bacteria, most commonly species of Pectobacterium - particularly Pectobacterium carotovorum, previously called Erwinia carotovora - Dickeya species, particularly Dickeya dadantii, previously Erwinia chrysanthemi, and certain species of Pseudomonas, Bacillus and Clostridium. These bacteria enter plants through wounds caused by tools, insects, and severe weather such as hail, as well as through natural openings. They can be spread from plant to plant by insects, on contaminated tools, or by movement of infested plant debris, soil, or contaminated water. Bacterial soft rots tend to be more of a problem during wet weather and can be more severe when plants lack sufficient calcium. Once soft rot bacteria have infected plant tissue there are no treatments; immediately remove and discard infected plants or plant parts. Soft rots cause the collapse of plant parts such as potato tubers, and the bacteria mainly attack the fleshy storage organs of their hosts - tubers, corms, bulbs and rhizomes. Note that other organisms also cause tuber rot: a first report in Plant Disease attributes soft rot of Jerusalem artichoke tubers to the fungus Rhizopus arrhizus, which produces water-soaked lesions and a rapidly spreading black-grey mould.

On Jerusalem Artichoke: Wet or compacted soil damages planting stock and storage organs.

Prevention: Improve drainage and avoid overwatering.

Risk fades when: There is no treatment once tissue is infected. Remove and discard rotting tubers immediately, and never store a damaged or suspect tuber with sound ones - one rotting tuber will take the box with it. Prevention is entirely about wounds and water. Plant into well-drained, uncompacted soil. Lift carefully with a fork rather than a spade, working outward from the plant so tools do not nick the tubers, and handle the harvest gently; every bruise is a doorway. Cure and store in cool, dry, airy conditions. Sanitise tools between plantings, since the bacteria travel on contaminated tools, soil, debris and water. Do not replant tubers showing any soft, sunken or foul-smelling area.

A seedling killer caused by several different fungi working together. It hits vegetables, flowers, herbs, microgreens, and cover-crop seedlings the same way — seeds rot before they emerge, or young seedlings collapse right at the soil line. Wet seed-starting mix and poor airflow in seedling trays are the classic conditions.

Triggers: Wet soil or starting mix, poor drainage, seedlings packed too tightly, contaminated trays or media, and stagnant air all favor damping-off.

Risk fades when: Drying the soil surface and improving airflow slows new spread. Collapsed seedlings don't recover, but the rest of the tray can be saved.

The Delia root-maggot complex includes the cabbage maggot (D. radicum) on brassicas and root crops, the seedcorn maggot (D. platura) on bean/pea/corn seedlings, and several other species. Larvae tunnel into roots, basal stems, and seeds, killing seedlings outright or creating tunnels that ruin root crops for market. A 2021 Oregon industry survey found 100% of root crop growers reported cabbage maggot damage; 44% with 10-25% yield loss.

Triggers: Overwinter as pupae in soil/crop residue. Adults emerge early spring (300-600 GDD base 40°F after Jan 1 in PNW). Cool moist soils favor egg survival; soil >95°F in top 2-3 inches kills eggs. Multiple generations per year. Seedcorn maggot attracted to decaying organic matter — high risk after fresh-incorporated cover crop.

Risk fades when: Cool, wet weather favors root maggots and damage is worst in early spring, dropping to its lowest in midsummer when soil temperatures above about 95 F kill the eggs; a late-summer flight can still injure fall root crops, so risk returns as weather cools (UMaine Extension, Wisconsin Hort, UNH Extension).

Aphids are soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on tender new growth. Most established plants tolerate moderate populations and will outgrow damage on their own, but aphids are the most important plant virus vectors in the garden, transmitting more than 100 plant viruses including potato leafroll, cucumber mosaic, and turnip mosaic. Honeydew excreted while feeding supports sooty mold growth and attracts ants that protect aphids from natural enemies.

Triggers: Optimal development at ~75°F (green peach aphid) per UC IPM Floriculture; melon aphid develops fastest above 75°F. Many species heat-intolerant above 90°F and crash in mid-summer. Soft new growth and over-fertilization with high N favor population buildup. Females give live birth parthenogenetically most of growing season — one generation in ~1 week under optimal conditions.

Risk fades when: Per UC IPM and Clemson HGIC, populations crash in mid-summer heat (>90°F) for many species, return in cooler conditions

Flea beetles are small (1/16-inch) shiny beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed. They chew small round 'shothole' or 'pinhole' damage in leaves and can destroy emerging cotyledons of broccoli or eggplant in 24 hours. Most species are host-family specific — crucifer flea beetle on brassicas, tuber flea beetle on potatoes, eggplant flea beetle on solanaceous crops.

Triggers: Overwinter as adults in leaf litter and field margins. Active at mid- to late-spring temperatures. Warm winter → higher next-spring populations (NC State). Hot dry conditions amplify damage on stressed seedlings.

Risk fades when: UMN: 1-2 generations in Minnesota, populations crash after mid-June

Covers shungiku/chrysanthemum, coreopsis, dandelion, and related aster-family leaf spot pressure. Produces yellow, brown, black, or purple-margined spots, often starting on lower leaves during extended wet or humid weather.

Triggers: Extended leaf wetness, wet foliage, splash dispersal, infected debris, and handling wet plants all drive spread.

On Jerusalem Artichoke: Foliage diseases build in crowded or humid plantings.

Prevention: Rotate crops, improve airflow, and remove infected debris.

Risk fades when: Limiting leaf wetness and splash lowers new infection risk.

A carrot, parsnip or radish that comes out of the ground split lengthwise was not diseased and nothing chewed it. It grew too fast, too suddenly. When soil dries out, root growth slows and the skin firms up. Water it heavily, or let a downpour land on a dry bed, and the inner tissue swells faster than that hardened skin can stretch. The root ruptures. USU Extension is explicit about who this happens to: cracking occurs in older roots and is associated with poor irrigation practices. That word older is the key. Big, mature, large-rooted cultivars split; small young ones flex and survive the same weather. So the two levers are steady moisture and pulling the crop on time, and the longer a mature root sits in the ground the more rain events it has to survive. A cracked root is perfectly edible - trim the split, use it first - but it will not store, because the open crack lets soil and rot in. One quirk worth knowing: roots can also shatter at harvest if you dig them while they are very cold.

Triggers: USU Extension: cracking is a problem in carrot, parsnip, and radish; it occurs in older roots and is associated with poor irrigation practices. When irrigation is erratic, roots take in more water, the root expands quickly, and it may crack. Large-rooted cultivars, and older roots, are more prone to split than small young ones. Keeping soil moist for steady growth matters most in sandy or drought-sensitive soils. Splitting or shattering can also happen at harvest, particularly if the roots are very cold when dug. The same swelling mechanism applies to other storage roots that size up quickly, such as rutabaga and salsify, though extension sources name carrot, parsnip and radish specifically.

Risk fades when: A split root does not heal. Harvest it and use it first - cracked roots store poorly because the open crack admits soil and decay. Shallow surface splits can be peeled or trimmed away and the flesh beneath is sound. Prevention for the next sowing: irrigate to keep the soil evenly moist rather than letting it dry and then soaking it, mulch to buffer swings, pick smaller-rooted cultivars where cracking is chronic, and harvest promptly once roots reach size. Avoid digging roots when they are very cold, which can cause shattering at harvest.

Microscopic soil-dwelling roundworms that burrow into plant roots and cause swollen knots (galls). Above ground, the plant looks stunted, yellowed, and wilted even with plenty of water. They attack over 2,000 plant species, so almost nothing is safe. They're most active in warm soil (70-85°F) and do more damage in sandy soils, where they move easily. Once a bed has them, populations stick around for years.

Triggers: Soil temperatures of 70-85°F are ideal for them; below 60°F they go dormant. Sandy soils make it easy for them to move and reproduce, while heavy clay slows them down considerably. In warm soil, a full generation completes in about 27 days.

Risk fades when: Activity drops sharply once soil cools below 60°F. Damage stops accumulating for the season, but the population stays in the soil and returns when warmth does.