Photo: "De beaux crosnes du Japon" by Idéalités
· CC BY-SA 4.0
Crosne tubers
Perennial · Lamiaceae
Crosne, also called Chinese artichoke, is a small crisp white tuber with a distinctive segmented shape and a mild nutty crunch. It is grown as a specialty fall crop and harvested after the tops die back, when the underground tubers have fully formed. It suits patient gardeners who enjoy unusual roots and can manage a careful hand harvest. Key facts: 180–220 days to maturity, 6+ hours of sun, 6–18 " spacing. Not recommended for containers.
Updated May 13, 2026·Backed by 2 cited sources
Overview
At a Glance
The essentials first: timing, light, spacing, seed-starting, container fit, and overall size.
Days to maturity
180–220 days
Sun
6+ hours
Full Sun 6 8 Hours
Spacing
6–18 "
between plants
Seed start
0 weeks
before transplant
Container
Not recommended
Needs 10+ gal if attempted
Height
0.5–2 ft
at maturity
Planting window
Zone Planting Guide
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Care
Growing Guide
Everything in one place: seed starting, transplant timing, watering, soil, and structural support.
Moisture
Watering
Weekly1–1.5 "
NeedsModerate
Drip
Root zone
Soil
pH range6–7
PreferredLoose, Stone Free, Well Drained Soil That Lets Bulbs Or Tubers Expand Evenly.
Resilience
Plant Health
Stress tolerance, resistance notes, and the most common problems to watch for as plants mature.
Curly top virusBeet curly top virus (BCTV); Geminiviridae, Curtovirus
Severe
Disease
Late springPeak window months: Mar, Apr, May.
A virus spread by the beet leafhopper (*Circulifer tenellus*), mainly a problem in the western US — California, Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, New Mexico, Utah, and Washington. Infected plants get curled, thickened leaves with purple veins on the underside, stunted growth, and fruit that ripens way too early. Tomatoes aren't a leafhopper's preferred meal, but the bugs will land and "taste-test" plants while migrating. A single bite takes seconds and can transmit the virus.
Triggers: Driven by leafhopper migration, not weather directly. The bugs overwinter in foothill weeds and head for gardens in late spring once the wild vegetation dries up. Hot, dry years push more of them into populated areas. Symptoms show up 7-14 days after a single leafhopper visit — and a single bite is all it takes.
Risk fades when: Migration peaks in late spring; once the main wave passes, transmission risk drops sharply. The virus doesn't hide in soil or plant debris between seasons, so risk resets each year.
A soil-borne fungus (*Sclerotium rolfsii*) that attacks plant stems right at the soil line during hot weather. It hits over 500 different plant species. Two telltale signs to look for: white fan-shaped fungal growth on the lower stem, mulch, and soil surface, and tan-brown spherical sclerotia (they look like mustard seeds) on infected tissue. Most active during sustained heat with humid conditions.
Triggers: Optimal at 86°F (30°C) soil and air temperature with humid conditions. Inactive below 70°F. Most damaging during sustained mid- to late-summer heat waves. It extends further north in warmer-than-normal seasons.
Risk fades when: Sustained cooler weather — highs below 80°F and overnight lows below 70°F for 5+ days — reduces fungal activity. The sclerotia (resting bodies) persist in soil for years, so resolution is seasonal, not curative.
A seedling killer caused by several different fungi working together. It hits vegetables, flowers, herbs, microgreens, and cover-crop seedlings the same way — seeds rot before they emerge, or young seedlings collapse right at the soil line. Wet seed-starting mix and poor airflow in seedling trays are the classic conditions.
Triggers: Wet soil or starting mix, poor drainage, seedlings packed too tightly, contaminated trays or media, and stagnant air all favor damping-off.
Risk fades when: Drying the soil surface and improving airflow slows new spread. Collapsed seedlings don't recover, but the rest of the tray can be saved.
Damping off of coffee seedlings caused by Fusarium sp. — Photo:
Scot Nelson
·
CC0 1.0
Root maggot complexDelia spp. complex: D. radicum (cabbage maggot), D. platura (seedcorn maggot), D. florilega, D. planipalpis
High
Pest
Jan–DecPeak window months: Jan, Dec.
The Delia root-maggot complex includes the cabbage maggot (D. radicum) on brassicas and root crops, the seedcorn maggot (D. platura) on bean/pea/corn seedlings, and several other species. Larvae tunnel into roots, basal stems, and seeds, killing seedlings outright or creating tunnels that ruin root crops for market. A 2021 Oregon industry survey found 100% of root crop growers reported cabbage maggot damage; 44% with 10-25% yield loss.
Triggers: Overwinter as pupae in soil/crop residue. Adults emerge early spring (300-600 GDD base 40°F after Jan 1 in PNW). Cool moist soils favor egg survival; soil >95°F in top 2-3 inches kills eggs. Multiple generations per year. Seedcorn maggot attracted to decaying organic matter — high risk after fresh-incorporated cover crop.
Risk fades when: U Maine
Alternaria leaf blightAlternaria dauci
Moderate
Disease
Jul–SepPeak window months: Jul, Aug, Sep.
A carrot-family Alternaria disease that causes dark brown to black lesions with yellow halos on carrot foliage and petioles. Severe disease shrivels the tops and stunts root sizing — bad enough infections make harvest a wash. It mainly affects carrots but can spread to closely related Apiaceae like parsnip and parsley.
Triggers: Leaf wetness from rain, dew, or overhead irrigation combined with wind or water dispersal favors infection. Older leaves are the most susceptible.
Risk fades when: Leaf wetness is required for new infections to start and spread. Multiple days of dry foliage lowers immediate pressure.
Aphids are soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on tender new growth. Most established plants tolerate moderate populations and will outgrow damage on their own, but aphids are the most important plant virus vectors in the garden, transmitting more than 100 plant viruses including potato leafroll, cucumber mosaic, and turnip mosaic. Honeydew excreted while feeding supports sooty mold growth and attracts ants that protect aphids from natural enemies.
Triggers: Optimal development at ~75°F (green peach aphid) per UC IPM Floriculture; melon aphid develops fastest above 75°F. Many species heat-intolerant above 90°F and crash in mid-summer. Soft new growth and over-fertilization with high N favor population buildup. Females give live birth parthenogenetically most of growing season — one generation in ~1 week under optimal conditions.
Risk fades when: Per UC IPM and Clemson HGIC, populations crash in mid-summer heat (>90°F) for many species, return in cooler conditions
BoltingVernalization-induced bolting
Moderate
Physiological
SpringPeak window months: Mar, Apr, May.
Root crops are biennials that flower in their second year after winter cold. When spring-sown plants experience cold exposure (below 50°F for 1-4 weeks) during their juvenile stage, then warm days arrive, they may interpret the cold as 'winter complete' and flower in their first season instead of bulking up roots. Beets, chard, spinach, lettuce, radishes, and turnips have short vernalization requirements (1-4 weeks) — direct-seeded crops are most at risk. Carrots, parsnips, storage onions, and fall-set shallots need much longer vernalization periods, so they bolt less from spring cold. Once the plant commits to flowering, root development slows or stops.
Triggers: Per MSU Extension: beets, chard, spinach, radishes, turnips have 1-4 week vernalization requirements — direct-seeded plantings most at risk in cold springs. Carrots, parsnips, storage onions need 8-12 weeks vernalization, so rarely bolt from spring cold. Plants must have reached juvenile size threshold to be vernalization-susceptible.
Risk fades when: Once bolted, root development stops. Harvest whatever's usable. Fall sowings rarely bolt because plants don't reach vernalization-susceptible size before harvest.
Cercospora leaf spotCercospora beticola
Moderate
Disease
Jul–SepPeak window months: Jul, Aug, Sep.
*Cercospora beticola* causes circular gray-tan spots ringed with dark purple-brown margins on the leaves. It primarily affects beets and Swiss chard, with documented cross-infection to Malabar spinach (*Basella alba*) and New Zealand spinach (*Tetragonia tetragonoides*) — even though those are different botanical families, peer-reviewed cross-inoculation studies confirmed the same pathogen. Favored by warm, humid conditions with leaf wetness.
Triggers: High humidity, extended leaf wetness, rain or splash, and infected debris or seed all favor infection and spore production.
Risk fades when: Dry leaves reduce both new infections and the spore production that fuels spread.
Flea beetles are small (1/16-inch) shiny beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed. They chew small round 'shothole' or 'pinhole' damage in leaves and can destroy emerging cotyledons of broccoli or eggplant in 24 hours. Most species are host-family specific — crucifer flea beetle on brassicas, tuber flea beetle on potatoes, eggplant flea beetle on solanaceous crops.
Triggers: Overwinter as adults in leaf litter and field margins. Active at mid- to late-spring temperatures. Warm winter → higher next-spring populations (NC State). Hot dry conditions amplify damage on stressed seedlings.
Risk fades when: UMN: 1-2 generations in Minnesota, populations crash after mid-June
Forked rootsForked roots happen when a taproot hits a physical obstruction — a stone, hard clod, buried debris, compacted subsoil — and splits into two or more roots going around it.
Moderate
Physiological
Year-roundPeak window months: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.
Forked roots happen when a taproot hits a physical obstruction — a stone, hard clod, buried debris, compacted subsoil — and splits into two or more roots going around it. Common in heavy clay or rocky soils, especially when the bed wasn't loosened to a full 12-inch depth before sowing. Other contributors: excessive nitrogen fertilization pushes hairy lateral roots, transplanting damages the taproot, crowded sowing forces neighboring roots to twist together, and root-knot nematodes mimic the symptom. Prevention is in bed prep — loosen soil to 12 inches, remove stones larger than 1/2 inch, avoid fresh manure or heavy nitrogen the season of planting. Direct-seed rather than transplant. Thin seedlings to proper spacing.
Triggers: Per UMN/UIllinois Extension: forking from physical obstructions in soil (stones, clods, debris), compacted subsoil, excessive nitrogen, or crowded plantings. Root-knot nematode infestation causes a similar symptom but with visible galls.
Risk fades when: Affected roots are still edible but cosmetic. For next planting: deep-loosen bed 12 inches, sieve out stones, work in compost (not fresh manure or high-N), direct-seed not transplant, thin to proper spacing.
Leaf spotFoliage diseases build in crowded or humid plantings.
Moderate
Physiological
No data
Foliage diseases build in crowded or humid plantings.
On Crosne: Foliage diseases build in crowded or humid plantings.
Prevention: Rotate crops, improve airflow, and remove infected debris.
Root knot nematodeMeloidogyne spp. (M. incognita, M. hapla, M. javanica, M. arenaria)
Moderate
Disease
WinterPeak window months: Jan, Feb, Dec.
Microscopic soil-dwelling roundworms that burrow into plant roots and cause swollen knots (galls). Above ground, the plant looks stunted, yellowed, and wilted even with plenty of water. They attack over 2,000 plant species, so almost nothing is safe. They're most active in warm soil (70-85°F) and do more damage in sandy soils, where they move easily. Once a bed has them, populations stick around for years.
Triggers: Soil temperatures of 70-85°F are ideal for them; below 60°F they go dormant. Sandy soils make it easy for them to move and reproduce, while heavy clay slows them down considerably. In warm soil, a full generation completes in about 27 days.
Risk fades when: Activity drops sharply once soil cools below 60°F. Damage stops accumulating for the season, but the population stays in the soil and returns when warmth does.
Root knot nematodesMeloidogyne incognita (southern, thermophilic), M. hapla (northern, cool-tolerant), M. javanica, M. arenaria
Moderate
Pest
WinterPeak window months: Jan, Feb, Dec.
Root-knot nematodes are microscopic plant-parasitic roundworms that infect roots and cause characteristic galls (knots), distinguishable from beneficial legume nitrogen-fixing nodules because the galls cannot be rubbed off. Infected plants show stunting, yellowing, and wilting in heat. They are most damaging in sandy soils, in warm weather, and after years of growing susceptible crops in the same beds. NC State estimates two-thirds of NC crop fields are affected.
Triggers: Sandy/light-textured soils most favorable. Soil temps 70-85°F most active. Inactive below 60°F (NC State). Continuous cropping of susceptible hosts builds populations. Moderate drought amplifies damage. Egg-to-adult 27 days at typical growing temps.
Slugs and snails are nocturnal mollusks that chew irregular holes in leaves and clip off succulent seedlings. They leave characteristic silvery slime trails. Hermaphroditic and prolific, brown garden snails lay around 80 eggs per month for up to six clutches per year.
Triggers: Active at night and early morning in damp conditions. Coastal CA and southeast — active year-round. Spring rains and dense ground cover (mulch, debris, weeds) create harborage.
Risk fades when: UC IPM
6 more issues below · Show all 16 ↓
Feeding & picking
Nutrition & Harvest
How hungry the plant is, what ripe harvest looks like, and how long the crop keeps after picking.
Feeding
Nutrition
Feeding intensityModerate feeder
RecipesWorm Castings Topdress
Timing
Harvest
Harvest when tops yellow or die back, or when tubers/bulbs reach useful size for the intended use.
Expected yield0.5–3 lbs/plant
Storage14 days — Store cold and humid like other delicate tubers or leave in the ground until needed.
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What you'll need
Growing Supplies
Based on Crosne's growth profile -- recommendations matched to this variety's specific requirements.
Seed starting tray + heat mat
For gardeners who start seeds indoors, this combo improves even germination. Warm-season crops benefit from bottom heat. Look for a rigid tray, cell inserts with drainage, and a heat mat paired with a thermostat.
Source: Utah State University Extension; Iowa State University Extension; Mississippi State University Extension
Nearly every garden benefits from mulch for weed suppression, moisture conservation, and soil temperature moderation. For most home gardeners, quality organic mulch is the better buy over landscape fabric.
Source: Penn State Extension; Wisconsin Horticulture; Illinois Extension
Every gardener benefits from putting water at the root zone instead of on the leaves, because drip and soaker systems reduce foliar disease pressure by limiting leaf wetness and soil splash. A quality kit should include a backflow preventer, filter, pressure reducer, and UV-resistant tubing.
Source: Iowa State University Extension; Colorado State University Extension; UMass Extension
Row cover adds frost protection, speeds early growth, and physically excludes insect pests without spraying. Look for spun-bonded fabric with a stated weight and frost rating, UV resistance, and enough width for hoops or low tunnels.
Source: University of Maryland Extension; University of New Hampshire Extension; Colorado State University Extension
K-State Research and Extension and University of Maryland Extension recommend shade cloth as a heat-management tool for vegetable gardens, with 30 percent shade rating most effective for tomatoes, peppers, and fruiting crops, and 40 to 50 percent for protecting heat-sensitive greens during hot summer months. University of Delaware research found 30 percent black shade cloth tripled marketable yield for bell peppers compared to unshaded plants, and Purdue trials showed shade cloth reduced maximum daily temperatures by 8 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Choose knitted polyethylene with reinforced grommets every 18 to 24 inches, mount on hoops or a frame with open sides for airflow, and remove or vent during prolonged wet weather to avoid increased humidity in the canopy.
Source: K-State Research and Extension; University of Maryland Extension; University of Delaware Cooperative Extension; Purdue University Extension
Reflective plastic mulch (white-on-black or silver)
North Carolina State Extension reports that white-on-black plastic mulch can reduce soil temperature by 5 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit and silver mulch by about 6 degrees, the opposite effect of black mulch which warms soil. This makes reflective mulch the appropriate plasticulture choice for hot zones (especially Zone 9a desert and other high-heat low-humidity areas) where overheating limits warm-season crop performance more than cold soil. Silver mulch adds documented aphid and thrips repellency from the reflective surface. Use only with drip irrigation installed underneath, never use plastic mulch without irrigation, and reserve for late spring or early fall plantings where the surrounding heat is the primary stress.
Source: North Carolina State Extension; University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
A soil test gives a baseline for pH and nutrient status so gardeners can add only what the soil actually needs. Prioritize a mail-in or lab-affiliated kit whenever possible because extension guidance notes that laboratory testing is more accurate than instant readers.
Source: University of Maryland Extension; Purdue Extension; Montana State University Extension
University of Minnesota Extension recommends measuring soil temperature 2 to 4 inches below the surface to decide when warm-season crops can actually be planted, because air temperature and average frost dates do not reliably predict whether soil is warm enough for germination. A dedicated soil thermometer with a 4 to 6 inch stainless steel probe gives gardeners a deterministic reading instead of relying on the calendar alone, which matters most in zones with wide last-frost variability. Look for a waterproof stainless steel stem, a clearly marked vegetable-garden temperature range, and a readable analog or digital display at planting depth.
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension notes that most vegetables root in the top 12 to 24 inches of soil and that hot, dry periods require more frequent irrigation, but watering by habit often wets only the top inch while leaving the root zone dry. A dedicated soil moisture meter with a long probe gives gardeners a deterministic reading at root depth instead of guessing from surface appearance, which is most critical in low-rainfall desert zones (Zone 9a Phoenix) and in raised beds or containers that dry from the top down. Look for a single-purpose moisture meter (not a 3-in-1 or 4-in-1 combo, which trade accuracy for feature count) with a probe that reaches 8 to 12 inches and a clear analog or digital display.
Source: University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
UF/IFAS Extension and Texas A&M AgriLife Extension recommend securing or removing trellises, shade cloth, hoop covers, container plants, and lightweight raised-bed accessories before tropical storms and hurricanes, since loose garden items become projectiles in high winds. Most-relevant for Gulf Coast Zone 8b (Houston, Mobile, New Orleans), Florida Zone 9b (Miami, Tampa), and any coastal area within the Atlantic and Gulf hurricane corridors. Galvanized steel ground anchors resist rust in humid coastal soils, and screw-in spiral anchors hold significantly better than driven stakes in saturated soil during storm conditions. Use quick-release fasteners on shade cloth and trellises so they can be removed quickly when a storm watch is issued.
Extension guidance favors bypass designs because they make cleaner, closer cuts on living tissue than anvil types. Look for hardened steel blades that can be sharpened, a comfortable grip, and a cutting capacity matched to real home-garden stems.
Source: University of New Hampshire Extension; Iowa State University Extension; Purdue University Extension
Raised beds improve drainage, let gardeners control soil from day one, reduce compaction, and make gardening more accessible. A quality kit should use rot-resistant, food-safe materials and provide enough depth for productive rooting.
Source: Penn State Extension; University of Delaware Cooperative Extension; Illinois Extension
The most useful mix is three categories: a beginner guide, a reference manual for diagnosis and crop-by-crop lookup, and a soil science book. Look for region-aware editions, strong visuals, and evidence-based authorship.
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Research
Sources
Reference material and extension guidance used to build this growing guide.
reference General horticulture referencereference FAO EcoCrop - Stachys affinis
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