Skip to main content
Yellow Pear Tomatoes
Photo: "tomatoes" by F_A · CC BY 2.0

Yellow Pear Tomatoes

Indeterminate · Solanaceae

Distinctive pear-shaped, bright yellow heirloom cherry tomato dating to at least the 1800s. Mild, low-acid, sweet flavor. Prolific producer but less sweet than modern hybrids. Excellent for color contrast in salads. Open-pollinated, seeds viable for saving. Key facts: 70–80 days to maturity, 8+ hours of sun, 24–36 " spacing. Not recommended for containers. Requires cage for best results.

Updated June 1, 2026 · Backed by 2 cited sources
Overview

At a Glance

The essentials first: timing, light, spacing, seed-starting, container fit, and overall size.

Days to maturity
70–80 days
Sun
8+ hours
Full Sun, 8 10 Hours
Spacing
24–36 "
between plants
Seed start
6–8 weeks
before transplant
Container
Not recommended
Needs 10+ gal if attempted
Height
6–10 ft
at maturity
Planting window

Zone Planting Guide

Switch zones to see whether this plant is a strong fit, what frost timing looks like, and any extra notes worth planning around.

This card updates instantly with viability, frost timing, and any planting notes for your selected zone.

Care

Growing Guide

Everything in one place: seed starting, transplant timing, watering, soil, and structural support.

Seed starting
Germination
Time5–10 days
Optimal temperature80°F
Seed depth0.25"
Moving outdoors
Transplanting
Minimum soil temp60°F
Harden off10 days
Moisture
Watering
Weekly1–2 "
NeedsConsistent
Drip or base watering
Root zone
Soil
pH range6–6.8
PreferredWell Draining, Rich Organic Matter
Structure
Support
TypeCage — Vigorous indeterminate. Needs sturdy 6ft+ cage or tall stakes.

Recommended seeds · paid link ?When you shop through this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.

When you shop through this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.

Yellow Pear Tomato Seeds (Sow Right Seeds)

Indeterminate heirloom cherry tomato. 75-85 days. About 45 seeds per packet. Produces yellow pear-shaped tomatoes with a mild, slightly tangy flavor on very productive vines.

Shop on Amazon
Resilience

Plant Health

Stress tolerance, resistance notes, and the most common problems to watch for as plants mature.

Tolerance
Heat: Moderate Cold: Low Drought: Low

Watch for these first

Sort
Issue Severity Category Peak window
Curly top virus Beet curly top virus (BCTV); Geminiviridae, Curtovirus
Severe Disease Late spring Peak window months: Mar, Apr, May.

A virus spread by the beet leafhopper (*Circulifer tenellus*), mainly a problem in the western US — California, Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, New Mexico, Utah, and Washington. It has a broad host range, infecting beets, tomatoes, peppers, beans, and cucurbits. Infected plants develop curled, thickened leaves with purple-tinged veins on the undersides, stunted growth, and fruit that ripens prematurely. The leafhopper transmits the virus while migrating: it lands and briefly probes plants, and a single feeding of just a few seconds is enough to infect.

Triggers: Driven by leafhopper migration, not weather directly. The bugs overwinter in foothill weeds and head for gardens in late spring once the wild vegetation dries up. Hot, dry years push more of them into populated areas. Symptoms show up 7-14 days after a single leafhopper visit — and a single bite is all it takes.

Risk fades when: Migration peaks in late spring; once the main wave passes, transmission risk drops sharply. The virus doesn't hide in soil or plant debris between seasons, so risk resets each year.

Curly top virus symptoms
Beet curly top virus on common bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) — Photo: Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org · CC BY 3.0 US
Fusarium wilt Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. lycopersici
Severe Disease Winter Peak window months: Jan, Feb, Dec.

A soil-borne fungus that gets into tomato roots and clogs the vascular system, causing one-sided yellowing and wilt that eventually takes down the whole plant. Three races exist (1, 2, 3), and resistant tomato varieties are bred for each. The fungus can survive in soil for up to 10 years without a single tomato planted. It loves warm, slightly acidic soil around 82°F. People often mistake it for Verticillium wilt — the giveaway is that fusarium hits one side of the plant first.

Triggers: Optimal soil temperature is 82°F (28°C). Damage is worse in acidic soils (pH 5.0-5.5). Symptoms usually appear mid- to late season once soils warm up. The pathogen enters through root wounds — cultivation injury or nematode feeding both open the door.

Risk fades when: Activity slows when soils cool below 70°F. The seasonal pressure fades, but the pathogen itself persists in the soil for up to 10 years.

Fusarium wilt symptoms
Tomato vascular necrosis caused by Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. lycopersici — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Southern blight Sclerotium rolfsii (= Athelia rolfsii / Agroathelia rolfsii)
Severe Disease Summer Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

A soil-borne fungus (*Sclerotium rolfsii*) that attacks plant stems right at the soil line during hot weather. It hits over 500 different plant species. Two telltale signs to look for: white fan-shaped fungal growth on the lower stem, mulch, and soil surface, and tan-brown spherical sclerotia (they look like mustard seeds) on infected tissue. Most active during sustained heat with humid conditions.

Triggers: Optimal at 86°F (30°C) soil and air temperature with humid conditions. Inactive below 70°F. Most damaging during sustained mid- to late-summer heat waves. It extends further north in warmer-than-normal seasons.

Risk fades when: Sustained cooler weather — highs below 80°F and overnight lows below 70°F for 5+ days — reduces fungal activity. The sclerotia (resting bodies) persist in soil for years, so resolution is seasonal, not curative.

Southern blight symptoms
Athelia rolfsii mycelium on peanut (Arachis hypogaea) — Photo: Gerlach W / EcoPort · CC BY-SA 3.0
Blossom drop Tomato flowers are temperature-sensitive.
High Physiological Winter Peak window months: Jan, Feb, Dec.

Tomato flowers are temperature-sensitive. When day temperatures climb above 85°F and night temperatures stay above 72°F for several days, the pollen becomes sticky and nonviable — flowers dry up and drop before fruit can set. Cool nights below 55°F do the same thing from the opposite direction. Most cultivars recover once temperatures normalize, but the heat wave eats a round of harvest from each cluster affected. Heat-set hybrid varieties tolerate the high end better than heirlooms.

Triggers: Day >85°F + night >72°F for 3+ consecutive days triggers pollen abortion. Night <55°F (more common early/late season) triggers the cold-flush version. Humidity above 80% prevents pollen release even at normal temperatures.

On Yellow Pear: Temperature extremes

Prevention: Shade cloth in extreme heat

Risk fades when: Risk fades once daytime highs drop below 90°F and nighttime lows stay between 55-72°F for several days. Most cultivars resume fruit set within a week of recovery; the lost flower flush isn't recovered but new growth is.

Blossom end rot Blossom-end rot looks like a disease but isn't — it's a calcium transport failure inside the plant.
High Physiological Jul–Sep Peak window months: Jul, Aug, Sep.

Blossom-end rot looks like a disease but isn't — it's a calcium transport failure inside the plant. Calcium moves with water, so any disruption to water flow (drying out between watering, soaking after dry weather, heavy nitrogen feeding pulling calcium toward leaves instead of fruit) leaves expanding fruit cells starved for calcium. The cell walls collapse, creating the dark leathery patch on the blossom end. Most often hits the first 2-4 fruits in each cluster — that's when the plant is growing fastest. Once a fruit shows BER it can't heal; remove it so the plant can put energy into healthy ones. Subsequent fruits often turn out fine once watering is steadied. Large plum and paste cultivars are most susceptible; cherry tomatoes are rarely affected.

Triggers: Calcium moves with water. Drought followed by heavy watering, shallow watering, or excess nitrogen pulling calcium to leaves all starve the expanding fruit. Low soil pH (<6.0) also locks up calcium. First 2-4 fruits per cluster most often affected because plant is growing fastest at first fruit set.

Risk fades when: Risk fades as the plant settles into steady moisture and reaches mid-season fruit production. The first 2-4 fruits per cluster are most often affected; later fruits typically come out fine. Once a fruit shows BER it cannot recover — remove it so the plant directs energy to healthy fruit.

Corn earworm / tomato fruitworm Helicoverpa zea (= tomato fruitworm = cotton bollworm = soybean podworm)
High Pest Jul–Sep Peak window months: Jul, Sep.

Corn earworm is the same species as tomato fruitworm and cotton bollworm — a polyphagous caterpillar that bores into ears of corn through fresh silks, into tomato and pepper fruit, into lettuce heads, and into bean and pea pods. In sweet corn, losses can reach 50%. The species migrates north annually from southern overwintering grounds; in much of the northern US, it does not survive the winter when temperatures drop below 30°F.

Triggers: Overwinters as pupa in top 2-4 inches of soil where winter temps permit. North of I-70 (Illinois IPM): does not reliably overwinter — populations arrive via migration mid-July through September. Females prefer fresh corn silks for egg-laying; older silks rejected.

Risk fades when: Wisconsin Hort, Illinois IPM

Damping off Pythium spp. / Rhizoctonia solani / Fusarium spp.
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A seedling killer caused by several different fungi working together. It hits vegetables, flowers, herbs, microgreens, and cover-crop seedlings the same way — seeds rot before they emerge, or young seedlings collapse right at the soil line. Wet seed-starting mix and poor airflow in seedling trays are the classic conditions.

Triggers: Wet soil or starting mix, poor drainage, seedlings packed too tightly, contaminated trays or media, and stagnant air all favor damping-off.

Risk fades when: Drying the soil surface and improving airflow slows new spread. Collapsed seedlings don't recover, but the rest of the tray can be saved.

Damping off symptoms
Damping off of coffee seedlings caused by Fusarium sp. — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Late blight Phytophthora infestans
High Disease Summer Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

The most destructive disease of tomatoes and potatoes — it can kill mature plants within days once it gets going. Spreads explosively in cool, wet weather, which is why outbreaks tend to hit suddenly after a stretch of rainy nights.

Triggers: Infection takes only about 10 hours when humidity stays above 90% and the mean temperature is 60-78°F. As a daily proxy: a wet day combined with an overnight low above 50°F and a mean temp in range puts you in the danger zone.

Risk fades when: Spores survive roughly 5 hours at 80% humidity. Three consecutive dry days with highs above 75°F will likely break immediate spore viability, though damaged tissue stays damaged.

Late blight symptoms
Phytophthora infestans on potato leaf (Dore variety) — Photo: Rasbak · CC BY-SA 3.0
Late blight (Ph-2 race-specific resistance) Phytophthora infestans (Ph-2 gene-specific)
High Disease Summer Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

Ph-2 is one of three race-specific resistance genes bred into modern tomato varieties to slow late blight. A Ph-2-coded variety has partial resistance against certain strains of late blight, slowing the disease enough to get a harvest before plants collapse. Ph-2 alone doesn't cover all current strains — varieties coded with combined Ph-2 + Ph-3 (sometimes called 'stacked' resistance) cover the broadest range. The underlying disease behavior is the same as standard late blight: explosive spread in cool wet weather, total plant collapse in days without intervention. Race-specific genes slow the timing, they don't make plants immune.

Triggers: Same trigger conditions as standard late blight. Cool wet weather with overnight lows above 50°F.

Risk fades when: Three consecutive dry days with highs above 75°F break the immediate spore viability cycle.

Late blight (Ph-2 race-specific resistance) symptoms
Pathogen: Cercospora beticola — Photo: Plant pests and diseases · CC0 1.0
Late blight (Ph-3 race-specific resistance) Phytophthora infestans (Ph-3 gene-specific)
High Disease Summer Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

Ph-3 is another race-specific resistance gene for tomato late blight, often paired with Ph-2 in modern breeding programs to give broader strain coverage. Ph-3 alone covers different late blight strains than Ph-2. The two genes combined ('stacked' or 'pyramided' resistance) cover the broadest range of current strains and represent the strongest available genetic protection for tomato. Like Ph-2, Ph-3 doesn't make plants immune — it slows infection enough that gardeners can typically get a harvest before the disease catches up. Underlying disease behavior matches standard late blight.

Triggers: Same trigger conditions as standard late blight.

Risk fades when: Three consecutive dry days with highs above 75°F break the immediate spore viability cycle.

Late blight (Ph-3 race-specific resistance) symptoms
Pathogen: Cercospora beticola — Photo: Plant pests and diseases · CC0 1.0
Poor fruit set Poor fruit set means flowers appear normal but never produce fruit — they yellow, dry up, and drop.
High Physiological Late summer Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

Poor fruit set means flowers appear normal but never produce fruit — they yellow, dry up, and drop. Most often this is heat-related pollen failure: day temperatures above 90°F, night temperatures above 75°F, or relative humidity above 80% all prevent pollen from being viable or released properly. Bean, tomato, pepper, squash, and cucurbit crops all experience it. For insect-pollinated crops (squash, cucumber, melon, watermelon), insufficient bee activity during flowering compounds the problem. Some crops recover with cooler weather and produce normally in late summer; others permanently lose a flush. Plant heat-tolerant varieties for hot-summer locations and time spring sowings to flower before the worst heat.

Triggers: Per UDel/UMD/UIllinois Extension: day temps >90°F + night temps >75°F + RH >80% during flowering all reduce pollen viability. Tomato extreme threshold: day >95°F / night >80°F causes complete pollination failure. Bean threshold: night >68°F (snap) / >70°F (lima) reduces set. Cucurbits also need adequate bee activity — heat reduces both pollen viability AND bee foraging.

Risk fades when: Most warm-season crops resume fruit set within 1-2 weeks of cooler weather. Bean and pepper plants typically catch up on harvest in late summer when temperatures moderate. Lost flush isn't recovered but later flowering is normal.

Root rot Pythium spp. / Phytophthora capsici
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A water mold (not a true fungus) that attacks roots and crowns in waterlogged soil. It's most dangerous in heavy, poorly drained soil after extended rain — basically any time water sits around plant roots for days.

Triggers: Pythium infects from 50-95°F as long as the soil stays saturated. Phytophthora capsici is most active at 75-85°F. What matters most is how long the soil stays waterlogged, not just whether it rained.

Risk fades when: Risk fades when soil returns to field capacity (normal drained moisture). How long that takes depends on your soil — sand drains in hours, clay can take days.

Root rot symptoms
Bell pepper plant with Phytophthora capsici infestation — Photo: Don Ferrin, Louisiana State University Agricultural Center · CC BY 3.0
Tobacco mosaic virus Tobamovirus (Tobacco mosaic virus, TMV)
High Disease Year-round Peak window months: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

An exceptionally stable plant virus that spreads mostly by mechanical contact — handling plants, garden tools, smoking near plants, even infected seed. Causes mottled light and dark green patches on leaves, distorted growth, and reduced fruit yield. The virus survives for years on dried plant material and resists most disinfectants. There is no cure once a plant is infected. TMV affects tomato, pepper, eggplant, and many ornamentals. The resistance gene (Tm-1, often coded T on seed packets) is widely available in modern tomato hybrids. Smokers should wash hands and avoid handling tomatoes if their tobacco may carry the virus.

Triggers: Spread is mechanical (hands, tools, contaminated debris, infected seed), not weather-driven. SoilStack alerts when active-season conditions warrant scouting and tool sanitation.

Risk fades when: Extreme heat reduces vector activity. Note: existing infections cannot be cured.

Tobacco mosaic virus symptoms
Photo of a tobacco leaf with symptoms of tobacco mosaic virus. UGA1402027 — Photo: R.J. Reynolds Tobacco Company Slide Set · CC BY 3.0 US
Tomato mosaic virus Tobamovirus (Tomato mosaic virus, ToMV)
High Disease Year-round Peak window months: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

Closely related to tobacco mosaic virus and nearly indistinguishable in the field — both cause mottled leaves and reduced yield. ToMV is a more recently identified species (split from TMV in classification) that primarily affects tomato. Like TMV, it spreads by mechanical contact and infected seed, and the virus is exceptionally stable on tools and debris. Resistance genes (Tm-2 and Tm-2²) provide stronger protection than Tm-1 and are widely bred into modern tomato varieties. Resistance is essential where the virus has been confirmed in beds.

Triggers: Mechanical spread, not weather-driven. SoilStack alerts active during peak handling season.

Risk fades when: Extreme heat reduces vector activity. Note: existing infections cannot be cured.

Tomato mosaic virus symptoms
Cucumber mosaic virus on passionfruit leaf — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Tomato/tobacco hornworm Manduca quinquemaculata (tomato), Manduca sexta (tobacco)
High Pest May–Jun Peak window months: May, Jun.

Hornworms are the largest caterpillars commonly found in vegetable gardens — up to 4 inches long, green, with a distinctive horn on the rear. Two large caterpillars can defoliate a tomato plant rapidly. Adults are large sphinx/hawk moths that hover like hummingbirds at evening flowers. The two species are virtually identical in damage and management; tobacco hornworm is more common in the south, tomato hornworm in the north.

Triggers: Overwinter as pupae in soil. Adults emerge mid-May to June. Females lay 1-5 eggs per plant visit on leaf undersides; up to 2,000 total. 2-3 generations in NC, 2-4 elsewhere. Larvae feed 3 weeks through 5-6 instars; bulk of feeding in last instars.

Risk fades when: Multiple sources

Verticillium wilt Verticillium dahliae
High Disease Late spring Peak window months: Mar, Apr, May.

A soil-borne fungus that gets into roots and clogs the plant's water plumbing, causing yellowing, wilt, and slow decline. Unlike Fusarium, Verticillium tolerates cooler soils — symptoms often show up in late spring before the soil really warms. The fungus has a huge host range (over 200 plant species including tomato, pepper, eggplant, strawberry, mint, and many ornamentals) and survives in soil as tiny structures called microsclerotia for 10+ years. Yellowing is usually more uniform across the plant than Fusarium's signature one-sided pattern. Cool weather pathogen — soil temperatures of 70-80°F are ideal, and infections often slow in mid-summer heat.

Triggers: Cool-soil pathogen, active at 70-80°F soil temperatures. Symptoms often appear in late spring or early summer before soil warms past 85°F. Activity slows in mid-summer heat.

Risk fades when: Activity slows when soils warm above 85°F. The seasonal pressure fades, but the pathogen itself persists in soil for 10+ years.

Verticillium wilt symptoms
Sunflower plants showing symptoms of Verticillium wilt infection caused by Verticillium dahliae in the field. — Photo: Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org · CC BY 3.0 US
Alternaria stem canker Alternaria alternata f. sp. lycopersici
Moderate Disease Summer Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

A fungal disease distinct from early blight that causes dark sunken cankers on tomato stems, usually at or just above the soil line. The cankers can girdle the stem and kill the whole plant. A toxin (AAL toxin) produced by the fungus also causes blackened V-shaped lesions on leaves. Found mostly in greenhouse and warm humid growing conditions. The resistance gene Asc is widely bred into modern tomato cultivars, making this disease uncommon on coded varieties but devastating on heirlooms in conditions that favor it. Worse in cool wet weather following plant stress.

Triggers: Disease activity peaks during cool wet weather following plant stress. High humidity and overhead watering accelerate spread. Most damaging in greenhouse settings.

Risk fades when: Three consecutive dry days above 75°F break the immediate infection cycle. Active cankers persist on infected plants.

Alternaria stem canker symptoms
Pathogen: Cercospora beticola — Photo: Plant pests and diseases · CC0 1.0
Aphids Multiple genera: Myzus persicae (green peach aphid), Aphis gossypii (melon aphid), Macrosiphum euphorbiae (potato aphid), Brevicoryne brassicae (cabbage aphid)
Moderate Pest Mid-summer Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

Aphids are soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on tender new growth. Most established plants tolerate moderate populations and will outgrow damage on their own, but aphids are the most important plant virus vectors in the garden, transmitting more than 100 plant viruses including potato leafroll, cucumber mosaic, and turnip mosaic. Honeydew excreted while feeding supports sooty mold growth and attracts ants that protect aphids from natural enemies.

Triggers: Optimal development at ~75°F (green peach aphid) per UC IPM Floriculture; melon aphid develops fastest above 75°F. Many species heat-intolerant above 90°F and crash in mid-summer. Soft new growth and over-fertilization with high N favor population buildup. Females give live birth parthenogenetically most of growing season — one generation in ~1 week under optimal conditions.

Risk fades when: Per UC IPM and Clemson HGIC, populations crash in mid-summer heat (>90°F) for many species, return in cooler conditions

Bacterial spot Xanthomonas spp.
Moderate Disease Jul–Sep Peak window months: Jul, Aug, Sep.

A bacterial disease that puts small dark spots on the leaves and fruit of tomatoes and peppers. It spreads through splashing water, so it shows up more in warm, wet summers when rain or overhead watering keeps foliage wet.

Triggers: Conditions favor it when daytime highs sit in the 75-86°F range with frequent rain and high humidity. The bacteria sneak in through natural openings on the plant and through any wounds.

Risk fades when: NC State notes it's less of a problem in dry years. There's no published dry-day reset, so SoilStack uses a conservative 4 dry days — longer than most diseases because several Xanthomonas species are involved.

Bacterial spot symptoms
Bacterial leaf spot caused by Pseudomonas cichorii — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Catfacing Catfacing is the term for tomato fruit that develops puckered scars, deep folds, holes, or zippered scarring at the blossom end.
Moderate Physiological Mar Peak window months: Mar.

Catfacing is the term for tomato fruit that develops puckered scars, deep folds, holes, or zippered scarring at the blossom end. The mechanism is disrupted flower development during the cool early-spring weather when fruit was setting. Temperatures below 58°F during flowering can cause flower parts to fuse to the developing ovary, creating scar tissue that becomes visible as the fruit grows. Most common on the first cluster of fruit when set during cool weather, and on large-fruited beefsteak and heirloom cultivars; small-fruited cherry and grape tomatoes rarely catface. Sometimes also triggered by exposure to 2,4-D or other broadleaf herbicide drift from nearby lawn applications. Affected fruit is fully edible — just cut around the scarring.

Triggers: Per Iowa State/Purdue Extension: cool weather during flower development (below 58°F during bloom) is the primary cause. Affects first-cluster fruit set in cool springs most often. Large-fruited cultivars (beefsteak, heirloom paste) much more susceptible than cherry/grape. 2,4-D drift mimics symptoms.

Risk fades when: Catfacing affects fruit that was setting during the cool weather; later clusters set in warmer conditions are normal. No corrective action needed for the plant — affected fruit is still edible, just cosmetically damaged.

Early blight Alternaria solani
Moderate Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A common late-season tomato disease that shows up as distinctive bull's-eye spots starting on the lowest leaves and creeping upward. Plants rarely die from it, but yield drops as more leaves get infected. The same conditions, crops, and treatments apply to septoria leaf spot — both look like leaf spots on tomatoes during warm, wet weather and respond to the same management.

Triggers: Develops anywhere from 59-80°F, with the worst infection between 82-86°F. The spores need either standing water on the leaf or 90%+ humidity for 5-10 hours straight to germinate.

On Yellow Pear: Fungal, more vulnerable due to zero resistance

Prevention: Wider spacing for airflow, mulch, prune lower leaves, copper fungicide

Risk fades when: Three consecutive dry days break the moisture cycle the spores need to keep spreading. Existing leaf damage stays, but new infections stop.

Recommended treatment · paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.

When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.

Bonide Captain Jack's Copper Fungicide (16oz concentrate)

OMRI-listed protectant. Apply before symptoms appear or at first sign — prevents spread but won't cure already-infected leaves.

Shop on Amazon
Early blight symptoms
Tomato leaf showing target-shaped lesions of Alternaria solani — Photo: Clemson University - USDA Cooperative Extension Slide Series · CC BY 3.0 US
Fruit cracking Tomato cracking happens when fruit expands faster than the skin can stretch.
Moderate Physiological Summer Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

Tomato cracking happens when fruit expands faster than the skin can stretch. The trigger is almost always a sudden change in water supply — heavy rain or watering after a dry period — that lets the fruit swell rapidly while the skin can't keep up. Two patterns: radial cracks (lengthwise from stem toward bottom) are the more serious type and most common during hot humid weather; concentric cracks form rings around the shoulder. Larger fruits (beefsteak, paste) crack more than smaller ones, but cherry tomatoes also split when their high sugar concentration draws water in fast. Cracking is more likely on plants with light fruit loads (no competition for water means each fruit absorbs more), with thin canopies (sun heats the fruit and weakens skin), and during the ripening stage. Once cracked, fruit becomes vulnerable to fungi and bacterial soft rot; pick affected fruit immediately. Prevention: even soil moisture (mulch + steady watering), crack-resistant cultivars (Jetstar, Mountain Spring, Mountain Fresh), maintain leaf cover.

Triggers: Per Purdue/UDel/NCSU Extension: cracking results from skin growth rate < fruit expansion rate. Triggers: rain after drought (dominant), high temperature swings, high humidity, thin canopy exposing fruit to direct sun. Larger and cherry tomatoes both prone — cherry tomatoes from high sugar concentration drawing water rapidly. Modern hybrid varieties bred for crack resistance.

On Yellow Pear: Inconsistent watering

Prevention: Drip irrigation, consistent deep watering, mulch

Risk fades when: Pick cracked fruit immediately to prevent secondary rot. They're still edible if trimmed. Adjust irrigation to stay consistent moving forward — mulch helps even out soil moisture between rains and waterings.

Gray leaf spot (Stemphylium) Stemphylium solani / Stemphylium lycopersici
Moderate Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A fungal disease that creates small dark spots on tomato leaves which then turn gray in the center and develop a glassy or cracked appearance. Older leaves drop early, exposing fruit to sunscald. Common in warm humid weather, especially in southern states and in greenhouse production. Spreads by splash and wind during wet weather. Resistance (coded St) is widely available in modern hybrid tomatoes — heirlooms generally lack the gene. Doesn't usually kill plants outright but causes significant defoliation and yield loss.

Triggers: Disease favored by warm humid weather with persistent leaf wetness. Most active at 75-80°F with high humidity. Long dew periods and overhead irrigation accelerate spread.

Risk fades when: Three consecutive dry days break the active infection cycle. Existing spots persist.

Gray leaf spot (Stemphylium) symptoms
Pathogen: Cercospora beticola — Photo: Plant pests and diseases · CC0 1.0
Gray mold Botrytis cinerea
Moderate Disease Summer Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

Fuzzy gray mold on flowers, fruit, and wounded tissue. It thrives in cool, humid, enclosed spaces — University of Minnesota notes this is unlikely to be a problem in open home gardens and rare even in field tomatoes. It's mostly a greenhouse and high-tunnel concern, included here because SoilStack supports those growing environments.

Triggers: Develops at 60-75°F with humidity above 80%. Infection requires 4-6 hours of standing water on the plant tissue. UMN's data shows it's unlikely in open home gardens.

Risk fades when: Temperatures above 82°F suppress growth and spore production. That's the published threshold.

Gray mold symptoms
Raspberry fruit with gray mold (Botrytis cinerea) infestation — Photo: Schlaghecken Josef · CC BY 4.0
Potato virus Y Potyvirus (Potato virus Y, PVY)
Moderate Disease Early summer Peak window months: Mar, Apr, May.

An aphid-transmitted virus that affects pepper, potato, tomato, eggplant, and tobacco. Symptoms include mottled or vein-yellowing leaves, leaf distortion, and reduced fruit set. Aphids acquire the virus in seconds when feeding on infected plants and transmit it to healthy plants almost immediately afterward — this 'non-persistent' transmission means insecticides rarely stop the spread fast enough. The virus has multiple strains (common, necrotic, others) varying in severity. Resistance (coded PVY) is widely available in modern pepper hybrids.

Triggers: Transmitted by aphids; SoilStack uses warm, dry, aphid-favorable weather as proxy. Peak transmission risk during periods of aphid colony growth (spring and early summer).

Risk fades when: Extreme heat reduces vector activity. Note: existing infections cannot be cured.

Potato virus Y symptoms
Cucumber mosaic virus on passionfruit leaf — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Root knot nematode Meloidogyne spp. (M. incognita, M. hapla, M. javanica, M. arenaria)
Moderate Disease Winter Peak window months: Jan, Feb, Dec.

Microscopic soil-dwelling roundworms that burrow into plant roots and cause swollen knots (galls). Above ground, the plant looks stunted, yellowed, and wilted even with plenty of water. They attack over 2,000 plant species, so almost nothing is safe. They're most active in warm soil (70-85°F) and do more damage in sandy soils, where they move easily. Once a bed has them, populations stick around for years.

Triggers: Soil temperatures of 70-85°F are ideal for them; below 60°F they go dormant. Sandy soils make it easy for them to move and reproduce, while heavy clay slows them down considerably. In warm soil, a full generation completes in about 27 days.

Risk fades when: Activity drops sharply once soil cools below 60°F. Damage stops accumulating for the season, but the population stays in the soil and returns when warmth does.

Root knot nematode symptoms
Root galls on tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) caused by Meloidogyne incognita — Photo: Plant pests and diseases · CC0 1.0
Septoria leaf spot Septoria lycopersici
Moderate Disease Fall Peak window months: Sep, Oct, Nov.

A tomato-specific Septoria disease (not the same as the celery version). It produces many small spots with dark margins and tan or gray centers — look for tiny black specks (pycnidia) inside each spot. It usually starts on the lowest leaves after humid, rainy stretches. Note: Septoria leaf spot has no standardized resistance code on tomato seed packets. Seed companies that breed Septoria resistance (uncommon) typically spell it out as 'Septoria leaf spot' in the variety description rather than abbreviate.

Triggers: Favored by high humidity, heavy rainfall, splash from infected debris below the plant, and long stretches of leaf wetness.

On Yellow Pear: Fungal, common in humid climates

Prevention: Avoid overhead watering, remove infected leaves, copper fungicide

Risk fades when: Dry foliage with no splash events interrupts the new infection cycle from lower leaves and debris. Existing spots stay, but spread stops.

Septoria leaf spot symptoms
Tomato Septoria leaf spot caused by Septoria lycopersici — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Spider mites Tetranychus urticae (two-spotted spider mite, most common); also broad mite (Polyphagotarsonemus latus), russet mite (Eriophyidae)
Moderate Pest Jul–Sep Peak window months: Jul, Aug, Sep.

Spider mites are tiny arachnids (1/50 inch) that feed on the undersides of leaves, producing characteristic silver-yellow stippling. Heavy populations produce visible webbing that interferes with pesticide coverage. They thrive in hot dry weather and drought-stressed plants. The two-spotted spider mite feeds on more than 180 cultivated plant species.

Triggers: Hot dry conditions; >90°F lifecycle <2 weeks. Drought stress amplifies. Broad-spectrum sprays (carbaryl, pyrethroids) trigger outbreaks by killing predators. Wisconsin Ext: 'as little as a month without significant rain during the growing season can favor a mite outbreak.'

Risk fades when: UMN Extension

Sunscald Photooxidative sunscald necrosis
Moderate Physiological Fall Peak window months: Sep, Oct, Nov.

Sunscald shows as pale white or yellowish blotches on the side of fruit facing the sun, usually appearing during heat waves above 95-100°F. The fruit can't dissipate heat fast enough and the surface cells die. Most often happens after sudden foliage loss — a leaf disease (early blight, septoria) defoliates the plant, removing the shade canopy, and previously-protected fruit is suddenly exposed. Aggressive pruning has the same effect. Storm damage or wilt diseases (Verticillium, Fusarium) that kill foliage also trigger it. Tomatoes show pale yellow-white patches that eventually become blistered and paper-thin. Peppers get tan mushy lesions. Once damaged, the fruit can't heal but secondary fungal/bacterial rots often colonize the dead tissue, so remove affected fruit. Prevention: keep foliage healthy, avoid late-season heavy pruning, mulch to keep plants vigorous, use shade cloth during forecast heat waves.

Triggers: Per U Illinois IPM RPD 939: sunscald most common during heat waves >100°F when fruit suddenly loses shade cover. Common triggers: late-season pruning, leafspot disease defoliation, Verticillium/Fusarium wilt, storm damage to canopy. Damage is photooxidative — cells can't manage the combined heat + UV load.

Risk fades when: Remove affected fruit before secondary fungi colonize the dead tissue. Maintain canopy health going forward. Future fruit on the same plant is fine if leaves regrow.

Thrips Frankliniella occidentalis (western flower thrips), F. tritici (eastern flower thrips), F. fusca (tobacco thrips), Thrips tabaci (onion thrips)
Moderate Pest Spring Peak window months: Mar, Apr, May.

Thrips are tiny (1/16 inch) slender insects with fringed wings that puncture and rasp leaf surfaces, leaving silver stippling with black frass dots. The biggest concern is virus vectoring: western flower thrips is the principal vector of tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV) and impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV), which affect more than 600 plant species. Greenhouse and high tunnel infestations can be devastating.

Triggers: Hot dry weather; greenhouse/high tunnel environments. Female lays eggs inside leaf tissue. 2 larval stages feed; 2 non-feeding pupal stages in soil/litter. Lifecycle 10-21 days. Many overlapping generations. Bridge crops (spring wheat, peach, strawberry per NC State) build populations before vegetable hosts available.

Risk fades when: Wisconsin Hort, NC State

Tobacco etch virus Potyvirus (Tobacco etch virus, TEV)
Moderate Disease Year-round Peak window months: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

Another aphid-transmitted potyvirus, closely related to PVY. Primarily affects pepper but also tomato and tobacco. Symptoms include vein-yellowing, mottled leaves, and 'etched' appearance on leaves (small etched lines along veins giving the disease its name). Aphid transmission is non-persistent — virus acquired in seconds and transmitted almost immediately. Resistance (coded TEV) is widely available in modern pepper hybrids and often paired with PVY resistance.

Triggers: Aphid-transmitted; same proxy conditions as PVY.

Risk fades when: Extreme heat reduces vector activity. Note: existing infections cannot be cured.

Tobacco etch virus symptoms
Cucumber mosaic virus on passionfruit leaf — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Yellow shoulder Heat-induced lycopene synthesis failure
Moderate Physiological May Peak window months: May.

Yellow shoulder appears as yellow or green firm patches on the shoulders (top) of ripening tomato fruit while the rest ripens normally. The cause is sustained high temperatures during ripening — above 86°F prevents proper formation of lycopene (the red pigment) in the shoulder tissue. Some cultivars are far more prone to it than others; older heirloom varieties and yellow-shouldered hybrids show it more. Sometimes called 'green shoulder' or 'grey wall' in literature. The affected tissue stays firm and is edible — just less flavorful than fully ripened tissue. Cut around it for a usable fruit. Cultivar choice is the main long-term fix; modern hybrids bred for heat tolerance show less yellow shoulder.

Triggers: Sustained high temps during ripening (>86°F) prevent lycopene synthesis in fruit shoulders. Sunscald exposure compounds. Some varieties always show it; modern hybrids less prone. Potassium deficiency may contribute.

Risk fades when: Affected fruit is edible — cut around the yellow patches. Cooler weather restores normal ripening. Long-term, choose modern hybrid varieties with heat-tolerant ripening.

22 more issues below · Show all 32 ↓
Feeding & picking

Nutrition & Harvest

How hungry the plant is, what ripe harvest looks like, and how long the crop keeps after picking.

Feeding
Nutrition
Feeding intensityHeavy feeder
CalciumCritical — supplement recommended
RecipesRoot Drench, Silica Foliar, Worm Castings Topdress, Compost Tea
Timing
Harvest

Fully colored bright yellow with no green remaining. Slight give when squeezed. Pear shape should be fully developed, 1-2 inches long, ½-1 inch wide.

Expected yield8–12 lbs/plant
Storage5 days — Counter at room temp stem-side down. Never refrigerate.

Recommended fertilizer · paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.

When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.

Organic Tomato Fertilizer (4 lb)

The fertilizer extension agents recommend. 3-4-6 NPK with 8% calcium to prevent blossom end rot. From the brand that's been in business since 1929.

Shop on Amazon
Plant relationships

Companion Planting

Helpful neighbors can support growth or deter pests. Keep antagonistic plants separated to reduce stress and competition.

Avoid planting near
Herb Fennel
Stay in the loop

Planting reminders for Yellow Pear

Frost warnings, zone-specific timing, and seasonal nudges -- sent only when there's something to act on. Free, unsubscribe anytime.

Get Personalized Planting Reminders

Frost alerts, zone-specific tips, and seasonal guidance. Free, unsubscribe anytime.

For zone-specific tips
What you'd like to receive (optional):

By subscribing you agree to our privacy policy. We won't sell your data. Unsubscribe link in every email.

What you'll need

Growing Supplies

Hand-picked for your Yellow Pear, with the extension research behind every recommendation.

Seed starting tray + heat mat

For gardeners who start seeds indoors, this combo improves even germination. Warm-season crops benefit from bottom heat. Look for a rigid tray, cell inserts with drainage, and a heat mat paired with a thermostat.

Source: Utah State University Extension; Iowa State University Extension; Mississippi State University Extension

Our pick

Seedling Heat Mat + Thermostat Combo

Same trusted mat with a digital thermostat so you can dial in exact soil temperature. Peppers want 80-85°F, tomatoes 75-80°F.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
View on Amazon

Heavy-duty tomato cage

University of Maryland Extension says most gardeners prefer staking, trellising, or caging tomatoes because it uses less space, reduces fruit rots, makes harvesting easier, and increases yield per garden area; Clemson Extension adds that cages improve air circulation and reduce disease spread. For indeterminate tomatoes that keep elongating and setting fruit all season, a heavy cage is a structural need, not just a convenience, because it keeps foliage and fruit off the soil while supporting continuous vertical growth.

Source: University of Maryland Extension; Clemson Cooperative Extension

Our pick

Square Tomato Cages (4-pack, 60")

5-foot square cages with adjustable height. Includes 40 plant clips. Square design gives better stability than round for heavy indeterminate varieties.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
View on Amazon

Mulch / landscape fabric

Nearly every garden benefits from mulch for weed suppression, moisture conservation, and soil temperature moderation. For most home gardeners, quality organic mulch is the better buy over landscape fabric.

Source: Penn State Extension; Wisconsin Horticulture; Illinois Extension

Our pick

Cleaned Wheat Straw Mulch (3 cu ft, ~20 lbs)

Thoroughly cleaned wheat straw at 3 cubic feet, marketed specifically for vegetable gardens rather than animal bedding or decoration. Better per-pound economics than the 1 cu ft option, with the same extension-recommended material. Strong sales volume (2K+ bought past month) supports product consistency.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
View on Amazon

Drip irrigation / soaker hose kit

Every gardener benefits from putting water at the root zone instead of on the leaves, because drip and soaker systems reduce foliar disease pressure by limiting leaf wetness and soil splash. A quality kit should include a backflow preventer, filter, pressure reducer, and UV-resistant tubing.

Source: Iowa State University Extension; Colorado State University Extension; UMass Extension

Our pick

Complete Garden Drip Irrigation Kit

Designed for beginners with a step-by-step setup guide. Adjustable emitters, both tubing sizes, and all connectors included.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
View on Amazon
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. These are Amazon affiliate links -- if you buy through them, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the app free and the calendar ad-free. We only link products that match what the research says you actually need.
Research

Sources

Reference material and extension guidance used to build this growing guide.

university Clemson Cooperative Extension, Tomatouniversity University of Minnesota Extension, Growing tomatoes in home gardens
Internal links

Yellow Pear Tomatoes Planting Dates by Zone

Jump to your USDA zone for frost dates, start-indoors timing, and a full monthly planting calendar.

Ready to grow Yellow Pear?

Get a personalized planting schedule based on your exact zone with frost dates, task reminders, and feeding plans.

Start Your Garden Plan