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Red Pontiac Potato
Photo: "Two whole Red Pontiac potatoes and one halved" by Science and Advice for Scottish Agriculture · OGL v3.0

Red Pontiac Potato

Solanum tuberosum · Solanaceae

Red Pontiac is a mid-to-late season potato (90 to 110 days) released in Florida in 1945, with thin red skin and white flesh. It is one of the most adaptable potatoes, performing well in both heavy clay and sandy soils and across northern and southern regions (zones 3 to 9). It is excellent for new potatoes, stores well for 3 to 5 months, and has the same hilling needs as Yukon Gold. Some states require certified seed potatoes to keep out potato diseases: Idaho, Alaska and Montana require them for home gardens too, Montana bans planting grocery-store potatoes, and Nebraska, North Dakota, Nevada and Florida require certified or graded seed for potatoes brought in or sold (National Plant Board state summaries). Green potatoes and the leaves, stems and fruits of the plant contain solanine, which can sicken people, dogs, cats and horses. Keep tubers covered with soil so they do not turn green, and do not eat green parts (NC State Extension). Store potatoes in the dark so they do not turn green. Cut away small green spots before cooking, and throw out any potato that is green under the skin or green over a large area (NDSU Extension). Key facts for Red Pontiac Potato: 90–110 days to maturity from planting, 6+ hours of sun, 10–12" spacing. Container-friendly (minimum 10-gallon pot).

Updated October 8, 2026 · Backed by 6 cited sources
Overview

At a Glance

The essentials first: timing, light, spacing, seed-starting, container fit, and overall size.

Days to maturity
90–110 days
from planting
Sun
6+ hours
Spacing
10–12"
between plants
Container
Yes
10+ gallon pot
Planting window

Zone Planting Guide

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Common questions

Red Pontiac Potato FAQ

Every answer is assembled from this cultivar's own record, so the figures match the rest of the page.

How many days to maturity for Red Pontiac Potato?

Red Pontiac Potato takes 90–110 days to reach maturity from planting.

How far apart should you plant Red Pontiac Potato?

Space Red Pontiac Potato 10–12 inches apart, with 30–36 inches between rows.

How much sun do Red Pontiac Potato need?

Red Pontiac Potato needs at least 6 hours of direct sun a day.

How much water do Red Pontiac Potato need?

Red Pontiac Potato needs 1–2 inches of water a week, counting rainfall.

What soil pH do Red Pontiac Potato need?

Red Pontiac Potato grows best in soil with a pH of 5–6.5.

Can you grow Red Pontiac Potato in containers?

Yes, Red Pontiac Potato grows well in containers. Use a pot of at least 10 gallons; 15 gallons is better.

When is Red Pontiac Potato in season?

Red Pontiac Potato is a cool-season crop, in season during spring and fall in most regions. Plants reach harvest 90–110 days after planting and prefer temperatures below 75°F.

Resilience

Plant Health

Stress tolerance, resistance notes, and the most common problems to watch for as plants mature.

Tolerance
Heat: Low Cold: Semi-hardy Drought: Low

Watch for these first

Sort
Issue Severity Category Peak window
Curly top virus Beet curly top virus (BCTV); Geminiviridae, Curtovirus
Severe Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

A virus spread by the beet leafhopper (Circulifer tenellus), mainly a problem in the western US — California, Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, New Mexico, Utah, and Washington. It has a broad host range, infecting beets, tomatoes, peppers, beans, and cucurbits. Infected plants develop curled, thickened leaves with purple-tinged veins on the undersides, stunted growth, and fruit that ripens prematurely. The leafhopper transmits the virus while migrating: it lands and briefly probes plants, and a single feeding of just a few seconds is enough to infect.

Where it lives: Western US, from the Great Plains to the Pacific

Triggers: Driven by leafhopper migration, not weather directly. The bugs overwinter in foothill weeds and head for gardens in late spring once the wild vegetation dries up. Hot, dry years push more of them into populated areas. Symptoms show up 7-14 days after a single leafhopper visit — and a single bite is all it takes.

Risk fades when: Migration peaks in late spring; once the main wave passes, transmission risk drops sharply. The virus doesn't hide in soil or plant debris between seasons, so risk resets each year.

Curly top virus symptoms
Beet curly top virus on common bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org · CC BY 3.0 US
Southern blight Sclerotium rolfsii (= Athelia rolfsii / Agroathelia rolfsii)
Severe Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

A soil-borne fungus (Sclerotium rolfsii) that attacks plant stems right at the soil line during hot weather. It hits over 500 different plant species. Two telltale signs to look for: white fan-shaped fungal growth on the lower stem, mulch, and soil surface, and tan-brown spherical sclerotia (they look like mustard seeds) on infected tissue. Most active during sustained heat with humid conditions.

Triggers: Optimal at 86°F (30°C) soil and air temperature with humid conditions. Inactive below 70°F. Most damaging during sustained mid- to late-summer heat waves. It extends further north in warmer-than-normal seasons.

Risk fades when: Sustained cooler weather — highs below 80°F and overnight lows below 70°F for 5+ days — reduces fungal activity. The sclerotia (resting bodies) persist in soil for years, so resolution is seasonal, not curative.

Southern blight symptoms
Athelia rolfsii mycelium on peanut (Arachis hypogaea) (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Gerlach W / EcoPort · CC BY-SA 3.0
Colorado potato beetle Leptinotarsa decemlineata
High Pest May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

The Colorado potato beetle is the most serious insect pest of potatoes, and it also feeds on eggplant, tomato, tomatillo and pepper. The striped adults and the humpbacked red larvae chew the leaves, often feeding in groups, and can strip plants badly enough to cut the harvest or kill the plant. Adults spend the winter in the soil and become active in spring at about the time potatoes come up. Most areas get two generations a year. The beetle is resistant to over 50 insecticide ingredients, so hand-picking and other non-spray steps matter most.

Where it lives: Most of the US except Alaska, California, Hawaii and Nevada

Triggers: Adults spend the winter 5 to 10 inches deep in the soil of gardens, fields and field edges. They become active in spring at about the time potatoes come up, feed briefly, then lay clusters of yellow-orange eggs under the leaves. Eggs hatch in about a week. Larvae finish growing in about 10 days when temperatures average in the mid-80s F, but take over a month near 60 F. Full-grown larvae drop and pupate in the soil. Egg to adult can take as little as 21 days. Beetles cannot move very far until temperatures reach 70 F. Two generations a year in Minnesota, Pennsylvania and Maryland; two and sometimes a partial third in Kentucky.

Risk fades when: In Maryland adults come out of the soil in late April to early May. In central Pennsylvania overwintered adults come out in early May and lay eggs from early to late June, earlier in warmer parts of the state. Adults that emerge in late July and early August usually start a second generation; those that emerge after mid-August feed for a few days and then dig in for the winter. By midsummer eggs, larvae and adults can all be present at once (UMN Extension; Penn State Extension; University of Maryland Extension).

Damping off Pythium spp. / Rhizoctonia solani / Fusarium spp.
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A seedling killer caused by several different fungi working together. It hits vegetables, flowers, herbs, microgreens, and cover-crop seedlings the same way — seeds rot before they emerge, or young seedlings collapse right at the soil line. Wet seed-starting mix and poor airflow in seedling trays are the classic conditions.

Triggers: Wet soil or starting mix, poor drainage, seedlings packed too tightly, contaminated trays or media, and stagnant air all favor damping-off.

Risk fades when: Drying the soil surface and improving airflow slows new spread. Collapsed seedlings don't recover, but the rest of the tray can be saved.

Damping off symptoms
Damping off of coffee seedlings caused by Fusarium sp. — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Late blight Phytophthora infestans
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

The most destructive disease of tomatoes and potatoes — it can kill mature plants within days once it gets going. Spreads explosively in cool, wet weather, which is why outbreaks tend to hit suddenly after a stretch of rainy nights.

Triggers: Infection takes only about 10 hours when humidity stays above 90% and the mean temperature is 60-78°F. As a daily proxy: a wet day with the mean temp in that range puts you in the danger zone.

What it looks like: Small, pale to dark green, water-soaked spots on potato leaves, irregular in shape with a yellowish ring, that spread fast and turn brown to purplish black. In humid weather white growth shows at the edge of the spots, mostly on the leaf underside. Stems get brown to black lesions, and tubers get a firm brown rot starting at the skin.

Disease or overwatering? Water-soaked potato leaf spots with a yellow ring that blacken fast, with white growth at their edges underneath, point to late blight. Potato yellowing from wet soil has no spots and no white growth.

Will it recover? Blighted potato foliage does not recover. When leaves are blighted and tubers are at risk, let the vines die completely for 2 to 3 weeks before digging. Next time, plant certified seed tubers, get rid of cull piles and volunteer potatoes, and give foliage room to dry each day.

Risk fades when: Spores survive roughly 5 hours at 80% humidity. Three consecutive dry days with highs above 75°F will likely break immediate spore viability, though damaged tissue stays damaged.

Source for the signs above: UC IPM Pest Management Guidelines: Potato, Late Blight

Late blight symptoms
Phytophthora infestans on potato leaf (Dore variety) (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Rasbak · CC BY-SA 3.0
Root maggot complex Delia spp. complex: D. radicum (cabbage maggot), D. platura (seedcorn maggot), D. florilega, D. planipalpis
High Pest May, Jun, Aug, Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Aug, Sep.

The Delia root-maggot complex includes the cabbage maggot (D. radicum) on brassicas and root crops, the seedcorn maggot (D. platura) on bean/pea/corn seedlings, and several other species. Larvae tunnel into roots, basal stems, and seeds, killing seedlings outright or creating tunnels that ruin root crops for market. A 2021 Oregon industry survey found 100% of root crop growers reported cabbage maggot damage; 44% with 10-25% yield loss.

Where it lives: Throughout the United States, including Alaska and Hawaii

Triggers: Overwinter as pupae in soil/crop residue. Adults emerge early spring (300-600 GDD base 40°F after Jan 1 in PNW). Cool moist soils favor egg survival; soil >95°F in top 2-3 inches kills eggs. Multiple generations per year. Seedcorn maggot attracted to decaying organic matter — high risk after fresh-incorporated cover crop.

Risk fades when: Cool, wet weather favors root maggots and damage is worst in early spring, dropping to its lowest in midsummer when soil temperatures above about 95 F kill the eggs; a late-summer flight can still injure fall root crops, so risk returns as weather cools (UMaine Extension, Wisconsin Hort, UNH Extension).

Root maggot complex symptoms
Cabbage root maggot (Delia radicum) larva on a brassica root (cropped, resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Rasbak · CC BY-SA 3.0
Tomato/tobacco hornworm (yes, red pontiac potato gets these too) Manduca quinquemaculata (tomato), Manduca sexta (tobacco)
High Pest Jul–Sep Peak window months: Jul, Aug, Sep.

Hornworms are the largest caterpillars commonly found in vegetable gardens — up to 4 inches long, green, with a distinctive horn on the rear. Two large caterpillars can defoliate a tomato plant rapidly. Adults are large sphinx/hawk moths that hover like hummingbirds at evening flowers. The two species are virtually identical in damage and management; tobacco hornworm is more common in the south, tomato hornworm in the north.

Where it lives: Across the US: tobacco hornworm mostly in the South, tomato hornworm mostly in the North

Triggers: Overwinter as pupae in soil. Adults emerge mid-May to June. Females lay 1-5 eggs per plant visit on leaf undersides; up to 2,000 total. 2-3 generations in NC, 2-4 elsewhere. Larvae feed 3 weeks through 5-6 instars; bulk of feeding in last instars.

Risk fades when: Feeding ends by early fall when mature larvae drop from the plant to pupate and overwinter in the soil, so pressure resets each season; fall tilling of the bed destroys up to 90 percent of overwintering pupae and lowers next year's numbers (UMN Extension, Wisconsin Hort, UMass Extension).

Tomato/tobacco hornworm symptoms
Hornworm caterpillar feeding on a tomato plant (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Ljessee123 · CC BY-SA 4.0
Aphids Multiple genera: Myzus persicae (green peach aphid), Aphis gossypii (melon aphid), Macrosiphum euphorbiae (potato aphid), Brevicoryne brassicae (cabbage aphid)
Moderate Pest May, Jun, Sep, Oct Peak window months: May, Jun, Sep, Oct.

Aphids are soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on tender new growth. Most established plants tolerate moderate populations and will outgrow damage on their own, but aphids are the most important plant virus vectors in the garden, transmitting more than 100 plant viruses including potato leafroll, cucumber mosaic, and turnip mosaic. Honeydew excreted while feeding supports sooty mold growth and attracts ants that protect aphids from natural enemies.

Where it lives: Throughout the United States

Triggers: Optimal development at ~75°F (green peach aphid) per UC IPM Floriculture; melon aphid develops fastest above 75°F. Many species heat-intolerant above 90°F and crash in mid-summer. Soft new growth and over-fertilization with high N favor population buildup. Females give live birth parthenogenetically most of growing season — one generation in ~1 week under optimal conditions.

Risk fades when: Per UC IPM and Clemson HGIC, populations crash in mid-summer heat (>90°F) for many species, return in cooler conditions

Aphids symptoms
Aphis pomi (green apple aphid) colony on crab apple stem (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: InfluentialPoints · CC BY 3.0
Early blight Alternaria solani
Moderate Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

A common late-season tomato disease that shows up as distinctive bull's-eye spots starting on the lowest leaves and creeping upward. Plants rarely die from it, but yield drops as more leaves get infected. The same conditions, crops, and treatments apply to septoria leaf spot — both look like leaf spots on tomatoes during warm, wet weather and respond to the same management.

Triggers: Develops from 59°F upward and is worst at 82-86°F, its optimum (UMN). The spores need either standing water on the leaf or 90%+ humidity for 5-10 hours straight to germinate.

What it looks like: Starts on the oldest potato leaves as round to angular dark brown spots about 1/8 inch across, often with rings inside that make a target pattern. Badly infected leaves yellow and drop. Infected tubers show a brown, corky dry rot.

Disease or overwatering? Dark brown spots with target rings on the oldest potato leaves point to early blight. Yellowing from wet soil has no spots or rings. Early blight mostly hits stressed or aging plants, so check the lowest leaves first.

Will it recover? Spotted potato leaves yellow and drop and do not recover. Tubers can pick up the fungus as they are dug through the soil. Next time, keep plants growing well with proper feeding and watering, grow later-maturing varieties, and clear potato debris, where the fungus overwinters.

Risk fades when: Three consecutive dry days break the moisture cycle the spores need to keep spreading. Existing leaf damage stays, but new infections stop.

Source for the signs above: UC IPM Pest Management Guidelines: Potato, Early Blight

Early blight symptoms
Tomato leaf showing target-shaped lesions of Alternaria solani (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Clemson University - USDA Cooperative Extension Slide Series · CC BY 3.0 US
Flea beetles Phyllotreta cruciferae (crucifer), Epitrix spp. (potato/tuber/eggplant), Phyllotreta striolata (striped)
Moderate Pest May–Jun Peak window months: May, Jun.

Flea beetles are small (1/16-inch) shiny beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed. They chew small round 'shothole' or 'pinhole' damage in leaves and can destroy emerging cotyledons of broccoli or eggplant in 24 hours. Most species are host-family specific — crucifer flea beetle on brassicas, tuber flea beetle on potatoes, eggplant flea beetle on solanaceous crops.

Where it lives: Across the US

Triggers: Overwinter as adults in leaf litter and field margins. Active at mid- to late-spring temperatures. Warm winter → higher next-spring populations (NC State). Hot dry conditions amplify damage on stressed seedlings.

Risk fades when: UMN: 1-2 generations in Minnesota, populations crash after mid-June

Flea beetles symptoms
Crucifer flea beetle (Phyllotreta cruciferae) (cropped, resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: AfroBrazilian · CC BY-SA 4.0
Root knot nematode Meloidogyne spp. (M. incognita, M. hapla, M. javanica, M. arenaria)
Moderate Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

Microscopic soil-dwelling roundworms that burrow into plant roots and cause swollen knots (galls). Above ground, the plant looks stunted, yellowed, and wilted even with plenty of water. They attack over 2,000 plant species, so almost nothing is safe. They're most active in warm soil (70-85°F) and do more damage in sandy soils, where they move easily. Once a bed has them, populations stick around for years.

Triggers: Soil temperatures of 70-85°F are ideal for them; below 60°F they go dormant. Sandy soils make it easy for them to move and reproduce, while heavy clay slows them down considerably. In warm soil, a full generation completes in about 27 days.

Risk fades when: Activity drops sharply once soil cools below 60°F. Damage stops accumulating for the season, but the population stays in the soil and returns when warmth does.

Root knot nematode symptoms
Root galls on tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) caused by Meloidogyne incognita — Photo: Plant pests and diseases · CC0 1.0
Slugs and snails Cornu aspersum (brown garden snail), Deroceras reticulatum (gray garden slug), Limax maximus, Arion spp.
Moderate Pest Apr, May, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Apr, May, Sep, Oct.

Slugs and snails are nocturnal mollusks that chew irregular holes in leaves and clip off succulent seedlings. They leave characteristic silvery slime trails. Hermaphroditic and prolific, brown garden snails lay around 80 eggs per month for up to six clutches per year.

Where it lives: Across the US, including watered gardens in the desert Southwest

Triggers: Active at night and early morning in damp conditions. Coastal CA and southeast — active year-round. Spring rains and dense ground cover (mulch, debris, weeds) create harborage.

Risk fades when: Hot, dry summer weather drives slugs and snails into inactivity, so risk drops sharply once conditions turn warm and dry; populations are highest in cool, wet spring and fall, and in mild-winter coastal regions they can stay active year-round (UMN Extension, Penn State, UC IPM).

Slugs and snails symptoms
Gray garden slug (Deroceras reticulatum) on foliage (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: AfroBrazilian · CC BY-SA 3.0
Wireworms Elateridae (click beetle larvae; several genera, including Conoderus, Melanotus and Limonius)
Moderate Pest Apr, May, Jun, Aug, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Apr, May, Jun, Aug, Sep, Oct.

Wireworms are the larvae of click beetles. They live in the soil, eating seeds, seedlings, roots and tubers, and they bore small holes and tunnels into potatoes and sweet potatoes that can make them unusable. For home-garden sweet potatoes, UGA Extension says wireworms and root-knot nematodes seem to be the biggest problems. Their main food is the roots of grasses, so the worst damage comes in gardens dug out of sod or lawn within the past few years. Some kinds take several years to grow up, so a problem bed can stay a problem for years. Severe outbreaks are rare, and once you see damage no spray will fix it: the steps that work are taken before planting.

Where it lives: Found across the US; different wireworm species are the main pests in different regions

Triggers: Larvae and adults spend the winter 9 to 24 inches deep in the soil. In spring, once the soil warms to about 50 F, larvae feed within the top 6 inches; when the soil gets too hot (above 80 F) or dry they go deeper, and as the soil cools in fall they may feed near the surface again. They like moist, cool, heavy soil. Female click beetles lay eggs in grassy, weedy areas, which is why ground that was sod or lawn has the most wireworms. How long one generation takes depends on the kind: from one to six years. The corn wireworm takes up to six years, so larvae of every size are in the soil at once. In the Southeast, the southern potato wireworm has one or two generations a year and the tobacco wireworm has one.

Risk fades when: Wireworms do most of their damage in early spring, when they are near the soil surface; in summer they move deeper, and as the soil cools they may feed near the surface again (NDSU Extension). They become active and look for food as soon as the soil warms in spring (UMass Extension). In the Southeast, wireworms usually attack potatoes and sweet potatoes late in the season (Clemson HGIC; NC State Extension). The month numbers are a reading of 'spring' and 'late season' for most of the US; spring comes earlier in the South and later in the North.

3 more issues below · Show all 13 ↓
Plant relationships

Companion Planting

Helpful neighbors can support growth or deter pests. Keep antagonistic plants separated to reduce stress and competition.

Good companions
French Marigold
Where root-knot nematodes are a known problem, working a dense marigold planting into the rotation can reduce galling on the tubers. A few plants alongside will not.
What it does4
Nematodes Research supported
Roots release alpha-terthienyl and related compounds that can suppress root-knot nematodes (microscopic soil worms) when marigolds are grown densely enough for active root/nematode interaction.
Most effective as a dense cover-crop-style stand for a full season before rotating to vegetables. Casual interplanting does not control nematodes.
Ploeg 2000, 2002; Hooks et al. 2010; Gommers & Bakker 1988
Pest deterrent Extension recommended
Pungent scent deters deer, rabbits, whiteflies. Volatile compounds mask vegetable scent from pest insects.
UMN Extension; Illinois Extension
Pollinators
Attracts bees, butterflies, hoverflies throughout long bloom season.
Beneficial insects
Attracts ladybugs, parasitic wasps, lacewings.
Sweet Alyssum
The tiny flowers feed hoverflies and other aphid predators, giving the bed natural-enemy support through the long potato season.
What it does4
Beneficial insects Research supported
Tiny flowers are well suited to hoverflies and other small beneficial insects; hoverfly larvae prey on aphids.
Iowa State Extension, pepper damage reduction; Eric Brennan USDA, 500-1000 transplants/acre complete aphid control in romaine via hoverflies
Living mulch Research supported
Low spreading growth covers bare soil, holds moisture and crowds out weeds, while the flowers feed the insects that eat aphids. USDA research in organic lettuce showed it can be grown between crop rows without costing yield.
Brennan 2013 (Biological Control 65:302-311); Brennan 2016; Bugg et al. 2008 (UC ANR 8285)
Trap crop
Sometimes planted to pull leaf miners off lettuce, chard and beet greens. What alyssum is actually known for is feeding aphid-eating insects, not trapping pests.
No evidence was found for alyssum diverting leaf miners. The extensively documented effect is hoverfly recruitment for aphid control, which is this plant's beneficial-insect-habitat function.
Pollinators
Honey-scented flowers attract bees, butterflies, flower flies.
French marigold is supported for nematode suppression, while sweet alyssum and similar insectary flowers support natural enemies for aphids; do not pair with other solanaceous crops because they share disease pressure.
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What you'll need

Growing Supplies

Hand-picked for your Red Pontiac Potato, with the extension research behind every recommendation.

Mulch / landscape fabric

Nearly every garden benefits from mulch for weed suppression, moisture conservation, and soil temperature moderation. For most home gardeners, quality organic mulch is the better buy over landscape fabric.

Source: Penn State Extension; Wisconsin Horticulture; Illinois Extension

Our pick

Cleaned Wheat Straw Mulch (3 cu ft, ~20 lbs)

Thoroughly cleaned wheat straw at 3 cubic feet, marketed specifically for vegetable gardens rather than animal bedding or decoration. Better per-pound economics than the 1 cu ft option, with the same extension-recommended material. Strong sales volume (2K+ bought past month) supports product consistency.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Drip irrigation / soaker hose kit

Every gardener benefits from putting water at the root zone instead of on the leaves, because drip and soaker systems reduce foliar disease pressure by limiting leaf wetness and soil splash. A quality kit should include a backflow preventer, filter, pressure reducer, and UV-resistant tubing.

Source: Iowa State University Extension; Colorado State University Extension; UMass Extension

Our pick

Complete Garden Drip Irrigation Kit

Designed for beginners with a step-by-step setup guide. Adjustable emitters, both tubing sizes, and all connectors included.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Row cover / frost blanket

Row cover adds frost protection, speeds early growth, and physically excludes insect pests without spraying. Look for spun-bonded fabric with a stated weight and frost rating, UV resistance, and enough width for hoops or low tunnels.

Source: University of Maryland Extension; University of New Hampshire Extension; Colorado State University Extension

Our pick

Frost Blanket (10'x30')

Thicker 1.2 oz fabric rated to protect down to 28°F. Covers 300 sq ft — enough for multiple raised beds in a single sheet.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Garden shade cloth

K-State Research and Extension and University of Maryland Extension recommend shade cloth as a heat-management tool for vegetable gardens, with 30 percent shade rating most effective for tomatoes, peppers, and fruiting crops, and 40 to 50 percent for protecting heat-sensitive greens during hot summer months. University of Delaware research found 30 percent black shade cloth tripled marketable yield for bell peppers compared to unshaded plants, and Purdue trials showed shade cloth reduced maximum daily temperatures by 8 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Choose knitted polyethylene with reinforced grommets every 18 to 24 inches, mount on hoops or a frame with open sides for airflow, and remove or vent during prolonged wet weather to avoid increased humidity in the canopy.

Source: K-State Research and Extension; University of Maryland Extension; University of Delaware Cooperative Extension; Purdue University Extension

Our pick

30% Sun-Block Shade Cloth (6x10 ft)

Same 30 percent rating in the typical home-garden size that fits a 4 by 8 raised bed plus working overhang. Knitted polyethylene with grommets for tie-down. Strong volume signal (3.8K reviews) supports consistent product quality across orders.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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