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Royal Burgundy Bush Bean
Photo: "Purple bush beans on the plant" by B.D.'s world · CC BY-SA 2.0

Royal Burgundy Bush Bean

Royal Burgundy · Fabaceae

A purple-podded bush snap bean with tender, stringless pods 5 to 6 inches long, held high on compact plants. The deep purple pods are easy to spot against the foliage, and they turn green when cooked. Royal Burgundy germinates better in cool soil than most green beans, which makes it a good choice for an early planting. Key facts: 50–55 days to maturity, 6+ hours of sun, 4–6 " spacing. Container-friendly (minimum 3-gallon pot).

Updated June 1, 2026 · Backed by 2 cited sources
Overview

At a Glance

The essentials first: timing, light, spacing, seed-starting, container fit, and overall size.

Days to maturity
50–55 days
Sun
6+ hours
Full Sun, 8+ Hours
Spacing
4–6 "
between plants
Seed start
0–1 weeks
before transplant
Container
Yes
3+ gallon pot
Height
1.25–1.75 ft
at maturity
Planting window

Zone Planting Guide

Switch zones to see whether this plant is a strong fit, what frost timing looks like, and any extra notes worth planning around.

This card updates instantly with viability, frost timing, and any planting notes for your selected zone.

Resilience

Plant Health

Stress tolerance, resistance notes, and the most common problems to watch for as plants mature.

Tolerance
Heat: Moderate Cold: Low Drought: Moderate
Disease resistance

Bean common mosaic virus

An aphid- and seed-spread virus that mottles bean leaves and reduces pod set. Resistant bean varieties (coded BCMV or carrying the I gene) prevent infection.

Read more about Bean common mosaic virus below ↓

Bean common mosaic virus strain NY15

White mold tolerance

Royal Burgundy is often noted for useful field tolerance and generally reliable performance in cool conditions.

Watch for these first

Sort
Issue Severity Category Peak window
Curly top virus Beet curly top virus (BCTV); Geminiviridae, Curtovirus
Severe Disease Year-round Peak window months: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

A virus spread by the beet leafhopper (*Circulifer tenellus*), mainly a problem in the western US — California, Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, New Mexico, Utah, and Washington. It has a broad host range, infecting beets, tomatoes, peppers, beans, and cucurbits. Infected plants develop curled, thickened leaves with purple-tinged veins on the undersides, stunted growth, and fruit that ripens prematurely. The leafhopper transmits the virus while migrating: it lands and briefly probes plants, and a single feeding of just a few seconds is enough to infect.

Triggers: Driven by leafhopper migration, not weather directly. The bugs overwinter in foothill weeds and head for gardens in late spring once the wild vegetation dries up. Hot, dry years push more of them into populated areas. Symptoms show up 7-14 days after a single leafhopper visit — and a single bite is all it takes.

Risk fades when: Migration peaks in late spring; once the main wave passes, transmission risk drops sharply. The virus doesn't hide in soil or plant debris between seasons, so risk resets each year.

Curly top virus symptoms
Beet curly top virus on common bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org · CC BY 3.0 US
Southern blight Sclerotium rolfsii (= Athelia rolfsii / Agroathelia rolfsii)
Severe Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

A soil-borne fungus (*Sclerotium rolfsii*) that attacks plant stems right at the soil line during hot weather. It hits over 500 different plant species. Two telltale signs to look for: white fan-shaped fungal growth on the lower stem, mulch, and soil surface, and tan-brown spherical sclerotia (they look like mustard seeds) on infected tissue. Most active during sustained heat with humid conditions.

Triggers: Optimal at 86°F (30°C) soil and air temperature with humid conditions. Inactive below 70°F. Most damaging during sustained mid- to late-summer heat waves. It extends further north in warmer-than-normal seasons.

Risk fades when: Sustained cooler weather — highs below 80°F and overnight lows below 70°F for 5+ days — reduces fungal activity. The sclerotia (resting bodies) persist in soil for years, so resolution is seasonal, not curative.

Southern blight symptoms
Athelia rolfsii mycelium on peanut (Arachis hypogaea) (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Gerlach W / EcoPort · CC BY-SA 3.0
Corn earworm / tomato fruitworm (yes, royal burgundy bean gets these too) Helicoverpa zea (= tomato fruitworm = cotton bollworm = soybean podworm)
High Pest Jul–Sep Peak window months: Jul, Aug, Sep.

Corn earworm is the same species as tomato fruitworm and cotton bollworm — a polyphagous caterpillar that bores into ears of corn through fresh silks, into tomato and pepper fruit, into lettuce heads, and into bean and pea pods. In sweet corn, losses can reach 50%. The species migrates north annually from southern overwintering grounds; in much of the northern US, it does not survive the winter when temperatures drop below 30°F.

Triggers: Overwinters as pupa in top 2-4 inches of soil where winter temps permit. North of I-70 (Illinois IPM): does not reliably overwinter — populations arrive via migration mid-July through September. Females prefer fresh corn silks for egg-laying; older silks rejected.

Risk fades when: In the North (above roughly 40 degrees latitude) the insect does not overwinter, so populations arrive only by summer migration and are wiped out by fall frost, resetting each year; in the South it overwinters as a soil pupa and pressure lasts longer (UMN VegEdge, Wisconsin Hort, Cornell IPM).

Corn earworm / tomato fruitworm symptoms
Corn earworm (Helicoverpa zea) larvae in a damaged ear of corn — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Cowpea curculio Chalcodermus aeneus
High Pest May, Jun, Aug, Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Aug, Sep.

The cowpea curculio is a small black weevil that has rendered cowpea production essentially unsustainable across much of the southeastern United States. Adults feed on and lay eggs in green pods; larvae develop inside, feeding on developing seeds, then drop to soil to pupate. Yield losses of 60% have been documented even with moderate infestations. The weevil has become resistant to standard pyrethroid insecticides.

Triggers: Overwinters as adult in soil/debris/weedy margins. Emerges April; feeds on weed hosts (cutleaf evening primrose, moss verbena, wild bean) until cowpeas mature May-June. Female chews hole in pod, lays egg inside. Larvae feed inside pod through 4 instars; drop to soil to pupate. Egg-to-adult 30-40 days. Two generations in AL/GA (May-June, August-September); one in VA.

Risk fades when: One generation in the mid-Atlantic with pressure concentrated in late spring and early summer, so risk drops after the first pod-set window passes; adults overwinter in field trash and nearby cover, and cleaning up crop debris after harvest reduces carryover (UGA Extension).

Cowpea curculio symptoms
Cowpea curculio (Chalcodermus aeneus) (cropped, resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Robert Webster · CC BY-SA 4.0
Damping off Pythium spp. / Rhizoctonia solani / Fusarium spp.
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A seedling killer caused by several different fungi working together. It hits vegetables, flowers, herbs, microgreens, and cover-crop seedlings the same way — seeds rot before they emerge, or young seedlings collapse right at the soil line. Wet seed-starting mix and poor airflow in seedling trays are the classic conditions.

Triggers: Wet soil or starting mix, poor drainage, seedlings packed too tightly, contaminated trays or media, and stagnant air all favor damping-off.

Risk fades when: Drying the soil surface and improving airflow slows new spread. Collapsed seedlings don't recover, but the rest of the tray can be saved.

Damping off symptoms
Damping off of coffee seedlings caused by Fusarium sp. — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Fusarium wilt Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. phaseoli / F. oxysporum f. sp. pisi
High Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

A soil-borne vascular wilt that hits beans and peas through host-specific strains called formae speciales (basically subspecies that specialize in different hosts). Causes yellowing, stunting, wilting, brown streaks inside the stems, and long-term soil persistence — not splash-spread leaf spots.

Triggers: Warm soils, plant stress, soil compaction, and infested soil all favor the disease showing up. Wetness is a contributing stress factor, not the primary infection trigger.

Risk fades when: Weather pressure resolves slowly because soil-borne wilt doesn't disappear once symptoms start. A dry, stable week only lowers stress-driven expression — the pathogen stays in the soil.

Mexican bean beetle Epilachna varivestis
High Pest May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

The Mexican bean beetle is one of the most serious legume pests in the eastern United States. It looks like a coppery-yellow ladybug with 16 black spots but, unlike beneficial lady beetles, feeds on bean foliage from the underside. Damage creates a characteristic 'lacework' or skeletonized appearance, often turning entire plantings brown.

Triggers: Overwinters as adult in leaf litter/field margins. Emerges spring, females lay yellow egg masses (40-75) on leaf undersides. 4 larval instars. One generation in north; 2-3 in south. Peak July-August.

On Royal Burgundy Bean: Mexican bean beetles and other leaf feeders skeletonize foliage and scar pods.

Prevention: Scout regularly, hand-pick when practical, and use row cover early if pressure is high.

Risk fades when: One to three generations run from June into early fall; the beetle overwinters only as an adult in sheltered debris, so frost ends the active population, and destroying spent bean plants right after harvest denies the last generation its food and cover (UMass Extension, CT Ag Experiment Station).

Mexican bean beetle symptoms
Mexican bean beetle (Epilachna varivestis) on a bean leaf (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Judy Gallagher · CC BY 2.0
Poor fruit set Poor fruit set means flowers appear normal but never produce fruit — they yellow, dry up, and drop.
High Physiological Jul–Aug Peak window months: Jul, Aug.

Poor fruit set means flowers appear normal but never produce fruit — they yellow, dry up, and drop. Most often this is heat-related pollen failure: day temperatures above 90°F, night temperatures above 75°F, or relative humidity above 80% all prevent pollen from being viable or released properly. Bean, tomato, pepper, squash, and cucurbit crops all experience it. For insect-pollinated crops (squash, cucumber, melon, watermelon), insufficient bee activity during flowering compounds the problem. Some crops recover with cooler weather and produce normally in late summer; others permanently lose a flush. Plant heat-tolerant varieties for hot-summer locations and time spring sowings to flower before the worst heat.

Triggers: Per UDel/UMD/UIllinois Extension: day temps >90°F + night temps >75°F + RH >80% during flowering all reduce pollen viability. Tomato extreme threshold: day >95°F / night >80°F causes complete pollination failure. Bean threshold: night >68°F (snap) / >70°F (lima) reduces set. Cucurbits also need adequate bee activity — heat reduces both pollen viability AND bee foraging.

Risk fades when: Most warm-season crops resume fruit set within 1-2 weeks of cooler weather. Bean and pepper plants typically catch up on harvest in late summer when temperatures moderate. Lost flush isn't recovered but later flowering is normal.

Poor pod set Pod set failure in legumes is almost always a nighttime heat problem. Snap bean pollen becomes nonviable when night temperatures stay above 68°F; lima beans fail above 70°F.
High Physiological Jun–Aug Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

Pod set failure in legumes is almost always a nighttime heat problem. Snap bean pollen becomes nonviable when night temperatures stay above 68°F; lima beans fail above 70°F. Pollen quality drops, fertilization is incomplete, and the plant either drops the flower or sets a short twisted lumpy pod with few seeds inside. Daytime heat above 95°F adds to the problem but nights are the dominant factor. Peas behave similarly but earlier in the season — pea pod set fails when daytime temperatures climb above 80°F. Plants typically resume normal pod production once cooler weather returns; lost flush isn't recovered but later sets are normal. Plant heat-tolerant varieties (Annihilator, Jaguar, Dominator for snap beans) for mid-summer plantings and time spring sowings to flower before peak heat.

Triggers: Per UC ANR/UDel Extension: snap beans fail pod set when night temps >68°F sustained, lima beans >70°F. Day temps >95°F compound the problem but nights are dominant. Peas fail when day temps >80°F. Moisture stress at bloom compounds heat damage. Some varieties (Annihilator, Jaguar, Dominator for snaps; Cypress, Big Mama for limas) are screened for heat tolerance and produce better through summer heat waves.

On Royal Burgundy Bean: Heat or moisture stress during bloom interrupts pollination and early pod development.

Prevention: Keep soil moisture even and avoid planting so flowering lands in peak summer heat.

Risk fades when: Bean plants typically resume normal pod set within 1-2 weeks of cooler nights. Lost flowers don't recover but new flowers form and set normally. Maintain consistent watering through heat — moisture-stressed plants suffer worse pod set.

Root maggot complex Delia spp. complex: D. radicum (cabbage maggot), D. platura (seedcorn maggot), D. florilega, D. planipalpis
High Pest May, Jun, Aug, Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Aug, Sep.

The Delia root-maggot complex includes the cabbage maggot (D. radicum) on brassicas and root crops, the seedcorn maggot (D. platura) on bean/pea/corn seedlings, and several other species. Larvae tunnel into roots, basal stems, and seeds, killing seedlings outright or creating tunnels that ruin root crops for market. A 2021 Oregon industry survey found 100% of root crop growers reported cabbage maggot damage; 44% with 10-25% yield loss.

Triggers: Overwinter as pupae in soil/crop residue. Adults emerge early spring (300-600 GDD base 40°F after Jan 1 in PNW). Cool moist soils favor egg survival; soil >95°F in top 2-3 inches kills eggs. Multiple generations per year. Seedcorn maggot attracted to decaying organic matter — high risk after fresh-incorporated cover crop.

Risk fades when: Cool, wet weather favors root maggots and damage is worst in early spring, dropping to its lowest in midsummer when soil temperatures above about 95 F kill the eggs; a late-summer flight can still injure fall root crops, so risk returns as weather cools (UMaine Extension, Wisconsin Hort, UNH Extension).

Root maggot complex symptoms
Cabbage root maggot (Delia radicum) larva on a brassica root (cropped, resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Rasbak · CC BY-SA 3.0
Root rot Pythium spp. / Phytophthora capsici
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A water mold (not a true fungus) that attacks roots and crowns in waterlogged soil. It's most dangerous in heavy, poorly drained soil after extended rain — basically any time water sits around plant roots for days.

Triggers: Pythium infects from 50-95°F as long as the soil stays saturated. Phytophthora capsici is most active at 75-85°F. What matters most is how long the soil stays waterlogged, not just whether it rained.

Risk fades when: Risk fades when soil returns to field capacity (normal drained moisture). How long that takes depends on your soil — sand drains in hours, clay can take days.

Root rot symptoms
Bell pepper plant with Phytophthora capsici infestation (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Don Ferrin, Louisiana State University Agricultural Center · CC BY 3.0
Aphids Multiple genera: Myzus persicae (green peach aphid), Aphis gossypii (melon aphid), Macrosiphum euphorbiae (potato aphid), Brevicoryne brassicae (cabbage aphid)
Moderate Pest May, Jun, Sep, Oct Peak window months: May, Jun, Sep, Oct.

Aphids are soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on tender new growth. Most established plants tolerate moderate populations and will outgrow damage on their own, but aphids are the most important plant virus vectors in the garden, transmitting more than 100 plant viruses including potato leafroll, cucumber mosaic, and turnip mosaic. Honeydew excreted while feeding supports sooty mold growth and attracts ants that protect aphids from natural enemies.

Triggers: Optimal development at ~75°F (green peach aphid) per UC IPM Floriculture; melon aphid develops fastest above 75°F. Many species heat-intolerant above 90°F and crash in mid-summer. Soft new growth and over-fertilization with high N favor population buildup. Females give live birth parthenogenetically most of growing season — one generation in ~1 week under optimal conditions.

Risk fades when: Per UC IPM and Clemson HGIC, populations crash in mid-summer heat (>90°F) for many species, return in cooler conditions

Aphids symptoms
Aphis pomi (green apple aphid) colony on crab apple stem (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: InfluentialPoints · CC BY 3.0
Bacterial blight Pseudomonas syringae pv. phaseolicola / Xanthomonas axonopodis pv. phaseoli
Moderate Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

Covers both halo blight and common bacterial blight on beans. Look for water-soaked spots on leaves and pods with yellow or greenish halos. Spreads aggressively in rainy, windy weather and reduces both yield and quality.

Triggers: Rain, wind, splash irrigation, handling wet plants, contaminated seed, and infected plant debris all drive spread.

On Royal Burgundy Bean: Warm wet foliage and splashing water spread bacterial spots.

Prevention: Rotate crops, avoid working wet plants, and water at soil level.

Risk fades when: Bacterial spread is water-driven. Four dry days without splash events lowers immediate spread risk significantly.

Bacterial blight symptoms
Common bacterial blight (Xanthomonas axonopodis pv. phaseoli) on bean leaf — brown lesions with yellow borders (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org · CC BY 3.0
Bean common mosaic virus Potyvirus (Bean common mosaic virus, BCMV)
Moderate Disease Year-round Peak window months: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

An aphid-transmitted potyvirus and the most widespread virus of common beans. Causes mottled light and dark green leaves, leaf distortion, and reduced pod set. Some strains cause systemic necrosis (black death of stems and leaves) in susceptible varieties. The virus is also seed-transmitted — infected seed produces infected plants. Resistance (coded BCMV) is widely bred into modern bean varieties. Numerous strain variants exist (NY15, US1, others) with corresponding resistance genes (I gene, bc-1, bc-2, bc-3).

Triggers: Aphid-transmitted, also seed-borne. Active during warm aphid-favorable weather.

Risk fades when: Extreme heat reduces vector activity. Note: existing infections cannot be cured.

Bean pod mottle virus Comovirus (Bean pod mottle virus, BPMV)
Moderate Disease Year-round Peak window months: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

A beetle-transmitted virus of beans (primarily soybean but also snap and dry beans) spread mainly by bean leaf beetles. Causes mottled leaves and characteristic mottled or discolored pods that reduce marketability. The virus overwinters in beetles and weed hosts. Resistance is less developed than for BCMV — management focuses on beetle control and clean seed. Most commonly a concern in regions with established bean leaf beetle populations (Midwest and Mid-Atlantic).

Triggers: Bean leaf beetle-transmitted. Active when beetle populations are active (warm spring through summer).

Risk fades when: Extreme heat reduces vector activity. Note: existing infections cannot be cured.

Bean rust Uromyces appendiculatus
Moderate Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A bean-specific rust producing reddish-brown powdery pustules on bean leaves, stems, and pods. Severe infections can defoliate plants.

Triggers: High humidity, prolonged leaf wetness or dew, and warm moist weather favor the spores (urediniospores) to germinate and form new pustules.

Risk fades when: Dry foliage and heat above the mild rust-favorable range reduce new infections.

Bean rust symptoms
Bean rust symptoms on a bean leaf (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Clemson University - USDA Cooperative Extension Slide Series · CC BY 3.0 US
Gray mold Botrytis cinerea
Moderate Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

Fuzzy gray mold on flowers, fruit, and wounded tissue. It thrives in cool, humid, enclosed spaces — University of Minnesota notes this is unlikely to be a problem in open home gardens and rare even in field tomatoes. It's mostly a greenhouse and high-tunnel concern, included here because SoilStack supports those growing environments.

Triggers: Develops at 60-75°F with humidity above 80%. Infection requires 4-6 hours of standing water on the plant tissue. UMN's data shows it's unlikely in open home gardens.

Risk fades when: Temperatures above 82°F suppress growth and spore production. That's the published threshold.

Gray mold symptoms
Raspberry fruit with gray mold (Botrytis cinerea) infestation (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Schlaghecken Josef · CC BY 4.0
Powdery mildew Erysiphe pisi / Erysiphe spp.
Moderate Disease Jun–Sep Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

Different from cucurbit powdery mildew, this one mainly affects peas and some beans. It forms white powdery growth on leaves, stems, and pods — especially on late-planted or late-maturing legumes during warm, humid stretches.

Triggers: Warm temperatures, humid plant canopies, poor airflow, and late plantings all favor the disease. Rain isn't required and may even slow it down by knocking spores off.

Risk fades when: Activity drops when weather moves outside the warm, moderately humid range it likes. Hot spells above the favorable zone reduce new pressure.

Powdery mildew symptoms
Long bean: Powdery mildew — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Root knot nematode Meloidogyne spp. (M. incognita, M. hapla, M. javanica, M. arenaria)
Moderate Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

Microscopic soil-dwelling roundworms that burrow into plant roots and cause swollen knots (galls). Above ground, the plant looks stunted, yellowed, and wilted even with plenty of water. They attack over 2,000 plant species, so almost nothing is safe. They're most active in warm soil (70-85°F) and do more damage in sandy soils, where they move easily. Once a bed has them, populations stick around for years.

Triggers: Soil temperatures of 70-85°F are ideal for them; below 60°F they go dormant. Sandy soils make it easy for them to move and reproduce, while heavy clay slows them down considerably. In warm soil, a full generation completes in about 27 days.

Risk fades when: Activity drops sharply once soil cools below 60°F. Damage stops accumulating for the season, but the population stays in the soil and returns when warmth does.

Root knot nematode symptoms
Root galls on tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) caused by Meloidogyne incognita — Photo: Plant pests and diseases · CC0 1.0
Slugs and snails Cornu aspersum (brown garden snail), Deroceras reticulatum (gray garden slug), Limax maximus, Arion spp.
Moderate Pest Apr, May, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Apr, May, Sep, Oct.

Slugs and snails are nocturnal mollusks that chew irregular holes in leaves and clip off succulent seedlings. They leave characteristic silvery slime trails. Hermaphroditic and prolific, brown garden snails lay around 80 eggs per month for up to six clutches per year.

Triggers: Active at night and early morning in damp conditions. Coastal CA and southeast — active year-round. Spring rains and dense ground cover (mulch, debris, weeds) create harborage.

Risk fades when: Hot, dry summer weather drives slugs and snails into inactivity, so risk drops sharply once conditions turn warm and dry; populations are highest in cool, wet spring and fall, and in mild-winter coastal regions they can stay active year-round (UMN Extension, Penn State, UC IPM).

Slugs and snails symptoms
Gray garden slug (Deroceras reticulatum) on foliage (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: AfroBrazilian · CC BY-SA 3.0
Spider mites Tetranychus urticae (two-spotted spider mite, most common); also broad mite (Polyphagotarsonemus latus), russet mite (Eriophyidae)
Moderate Pest Jul–Aug Peak window months: Jul, Aug.

Spider mites are tiny arachnids (1/50 inch) that feed on the undersides of leaves, producing characteristic silver-yellow stippling. Heavy populations produce visible webbing that interferes with pesticide coverage. They thrive in hot dry weather and drought-stressed plants. The two-spotted spider mite feeds on more than 180 cultivated plant species.

Triggers: Hot dry conditions; >90°F lifecycle <2 weeks. Drought stress amplifies. Broad-spectrum sprays (carbaryl, pyrethroids) trigger outbreaks by killing predators. Wisconsin Ext: 'as little as a month without significant rain during the growing season can favor a mite outbreak.'

Risk fades when: Populations build in hot, dry weather and then crash in late summer and fall as predatory mites catch up, host foliage declines, and cooler, wetter weather and rain set in, so risk fades once the heat and drought break (UC IPM, Colorado State Extension).

Spider mites symptoms
Spider mite (Tetranychidae) infestation with webbing on a young lemon plant (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Paramecium · CC BY-SA 3.0
Whiteflies Trialeurodes vaporariorum (greenhouse whitefly), Bemisia tabaci (sweetpotato/silverleaf whitefly)
Moderate Pest Jun–Sep Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

Tiny sap-sucking insects that erupt off the leaf in a white cloud when you brush the plant. Despite the name they are not flies at all - they are Hemiptera, relatives of aphids, scales and mealybugs, and the name comes from the mealy white wax coating the adult's wings and body. They pierce the phloem and drain sap, so heavy populations yellow the leaves, dry them, and drop them. The bigger nuisance is honeydew: a sticky sugary excretion that coats the foliage, grows black sooty mold, and draws ants, which then chase off the natural enemies that would otherwise keep whitefly in check. UC IPM notes outbreaks often begin exactly that way - when biological control gets disrupted - and that once populations are high the pest is genuinely hard to manage. Bemisia nymphs go further, causing distortion, discoloration, and the leaf silvering that gives silverleaf whitefly its name. Both species vector plant viruses. Indoors and under cover they are far worse than in the open garden, because it never gets cold enough to knock them back and their generation time collapses to about 18 days at 80-90°F. The single highest-value habit is inspecting every new plant, undersides included, before it enters the greenhouse or the garden.

Triggers: UC IPM: whiteflies become abundant in vegetable and ornamental plantings especially during warm weather, and outbreaks often occur when natural biological control is disrupted. Greenhouse whitefly develops egg to adult in as little as 18 days, with fastest development between 80 and 90°F, so populations compound quickly under cover or on overwintered indoor plants. They favor succulent, actively growing tissue. Host range is broad - UC IPM lists alfalfa, beans, cucumbers, eggplants, grapes, lettuce, melons, peas, peppers, potatoes, strawberries, tomatoes and many ornamentals. Ants tending the honeydew interfere with the natural enemies that would otherwise suppress them.

Risk fades when: UC IPM: abundant especially during warm weather. Development is fastest at 80-90°F, so protected culture and indoor overwintering sustain populations outside the normal outdoor season - which is exactly when houseplants and tender herbs brought inside get hit.

Whiteflies symptoms
Silverleaf whitefly (Bemisia tabaci) adults and nymphs on a leaf underside (cropped, resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: CSIRO · CC BY 3.0
Sweetclover weevil Sitona cylindricollis
Low Pest Jun–Aug Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

The sweetclover weevil is a small gray-brown weevil specializing on sweet clover (Melilotus spp.), with secondary feeding on alfalfa and ladino clover. Adults notch leaf edges; larvae feed on roots and nitrogen-fixing nodules. Most damage occurs on cotyledon-stage seedlings — established stands in the Canadian prairies typically tolerate populations without significant yield loss.

Triggers: Diapause as adult overwinter. Cultivar selection matters — Melilotus alba less preferred than M. officinalis; wild M. infesta least preferred (Soroka & Muir). Nitrate fertilizer levels don't affect feeding.

Risk fades when: Damage is concentrated on cotyledon-stage seedlings in spring; once plants grow past the seedling stage they outgrow the notching injury, so risk fades as the stand establishes, and adults move off to oversummer and overwinter in sheltered sites (Craig 1978).

Sweetclover weevil symptoms
Sweetclover weevil (Sitona cylindricollis) (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: AfroBrazilian · CC BY-SA 4.0
13 more issues below · Show all 23 ↓
Feeding & picking

Nutrition & Harvest

How hungry the plant is, what ripe harvest looks like, and how long the crop keeps after picking.

Feeding
Nutrition
Feeding intensityLight feeder
RecipesRoot Drench, Worm Castings Topdress
Timing
Harvest

Harvest when pods are deep purple, smooth, and 5-6 inches long before seeds swell noticeably.

Expected yield0.5–0.9 lbs/plant
Storage7 days — Refrigerate unwashed in a breathable bag and use promptly for best texture.
Plant relationships

Companion Planting

Helpful neighbors can support growth or deter pests. Keep antagonistic plants separated to reduce stress and competition.

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What you'll need

Growing Supplies

Hand-picked for your Royal Burgundy Bean, with the extension research behind every recommendation.

Seed starting tray + heat mat

For gardeners who start seeds indoors, this combo improves even germination. Warm-season crops benefit from bottom heat. Look for a rigid tray, cell inserts with drainage, and a heat mat paired with a thermostat.

Source: Utah State University Extension; Iowa State University Extension; Mississippi State University Extension

Our pick

Seedling Heat Mat + Thermostat Combo

Same trusted mat with a digital thermostat so you can dial in exact soil temperature. Peppers want 80-85°F, tomatoes 75-80°F.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Mulch / landscape fabric

Nearly every garden benefits from mulch for weed suppression, moisture conservation, and soil temperature moderation. For most home gardeners, quality organic mulch is the better buy over landscape fabric.

Source: Penn State Extension; Wisconsin Horticulture; Illinois Extension

Our pick

Cleaned Wheat Straw Mulch (3 cu ft, ~20 lbs)

Thoroughly cleaned wheat straw at 3 cubic feet, marketed specifically for vegetable gardens rather than animal bedding or decoration. Better per-pound economics than the 1 cu ft option, with the same extension-recommended material. Strong sales volume (2K+ bought past month) supports product consistency.

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Drip irrigation / soaker hose kit

Every gardener benefits from putting water at the root zone instead of on the leaves, because drip and soaker systems reduce foliar disease pressure by limiting leaf wetness and soil splash. A quality kit should include a backflow preventer, filter, pressure reducer, and UV-resistant tubing.

Source: Iowa State University Extension; Colorado State University Extension; UMass Extension

Our pick

Complete Garden Drip Irrigation Kit

Designed for beginners with a step-by-step setup guide. Adjustable emitters, both tubing sizes, and all connectors included.

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Row cover / frost blanket

Row cover adds frost protection, speeds early growth, and physically excludes insect pests without spraying. Look for spun-bonded fabric with a stated weight and frost rating, UV resistance, and enough width for hoops or low tunnels.

Source: University of Maryland Extension; University of New Hampshire Extension; Colorado State University Extension

Our pick

Frost Blanket (10'x30')

Thicker 1.2 oz fabric rated to protect down to 28°F. Covers 300 sq ft — enough for multiple raised beds in a single sheet.

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Research

Sources

Reference material and extension guidance used to build this growing guide.

university University of Minnesota Extension, Growing beans in home gardensuniversity Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC, Bean & Southern Pea Diseases
Internal links

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