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Victoria Rhubarb
Photo: "Rhubarb plant (Rheum rhabarbarum) in early May" by Rasbak · CC BY-SA 3.0

Victoria Rhubarb

Victoria · Polygonaceae

Classic seed-grown perennial rhubarb with long green stalks washed red at the base. Hardy, vigorous, and productive once established, but patience is required because harvest should be light in year two and full only after the plant matures. Key facts: 730–1095 days to maturity, 6+ hours of sun, 36–48 " spacing. Not recommended for containers.

Updated June 1, 2026 · Backed by 1 cited source
Overview

At a Glance

The essentials first: timing, light, spacing, seed-starting, container fit, and overall size.

Days to maturity
730–1095 days
Sun
6+ hours
Full Sun In Cool Climates; Full Sun To Part Shade Where Summers Are Hot
Spacing
36–48 "
between plants
Seed start
6–8 weeks
before transplant
Container
Not recommended
Needs 20+ gal if attempted
Height
2–3 ft
at maturity
Planting window

Zone Planting Guide

Switch zones to see whether this plant is a strong fit, what frost timing looks like, and any extra notes worth planning around.

This card updates instantly with viability, frost timing, and any planting notes for your selected zone.

Resilience

Plant Health

Stress tolerance, resistance notes, and the most common problems to watch for as plants mature.

Tolerance
Heat: Low Cold: High Drought: Low

Watch for these first

Sort
Issue Severity Category Peak window
Curly top virus Beet curly top virus (BCTV); Geminiviridae, Curtovirus
Severe Disease Year-round Peak window months: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec.

A virus spread by the beet leafhopper (*Circulifer tenellus*), mainly a problem in the western US — California, Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, New Mexico, Utah, and Washington. It has a broad host range, infecting beets, tomatoes, peppers, beans, and cucurbits. Infected plants develop curled, thickened leaves with purple-tinged veins on the undersides, stunted growth, and fruit that ripens prematurely. The leafhopper transmits the virus while migrating: it lands and briefly probes plants, and a single feeding of just a few seconds is enough to infect.

Triggers: Driven by leafhopper migration, not weather directly. The bugs overwinter in foothill weeds and head for gardens in late spring once the wild vegetation dries up. Hot, dry years push more of them into populated areas. Symptoms show up 7-14 days after a single leafhopper visit — and a single bite is all it takes.

Risk fades when: Migration peaks in late spring; once the main wave passes, transmission risk drops sharply. The virus doesn't hide in soil or plant debris between seasons, so risk resets each year.

Curly top virus symptoms
Beet curly top virus on common bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org · CC BY 3.0 US
Southern blight Sclerotium rolfsii (= Athelia rolfsii / Agroathelia rolfsii)
Severe Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

A soil-borne fungus (*Sclerotium rolfsii*) that attacks plant stems right at the soil line during hot weather. It hits over 500 different plant species. Two telltale signs to look for: white fan-shaped fungal growth on the lower stem, mulch, and soil surface, and tan-brown spherical sclerotia (they look like mustard seeds) on infected tissue. Most active during sustained heat with humid conditions.

Triggers: Optimal at 86°F (30°C) soil and air temperature with humid conditions. Inactive below 70°F. Most damaging during sustained mid- to late-summer heat waves. It extends further north in warmer-than-normal seasons.

Risk fades when: Sustained cooler weather — highs below 80°F and overnight lows below 70°F for 5+ days — reduces fungal activity. The sclerotia (resting bodies) persist in soil for years, so resolution is seasonal, not curative.

Southern blight symptoms
Athelia rolfsii mycelium on peanut (Arachis hypogaea) (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Gerlach W / EcoPort · CC BY-SA 3.0
Damping off Pythium spp. / Rhizoctonia solani / Fusarium spp.
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A seedling killer caused by several different fungi working together. It hits vegetables, flowers, herbs, microgreens, and cover-crop seedlings the same way — seeds rot before they emerge, or young seedlings collapse right at the soil line. Wet seed-starting mix and poor airflow in seedling trays are the classic conditions.

Triggers: Wet soil or starting mix, poor drainage, seedlings packed too tightly, contaminated trays or media, and stagnant air all favor damping-off.

Risk fades when: Drying the soil surface and improving airflow slows new spread. Collapsed seedlings don't recover, but the rest of the tray can be saved.

Damping off symptoms
Damping off of coffee seedlings caused by Fusarium sp. — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Phytophthora crown rot Phytophthora cactorum / Phytophthora spp.
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A wet-soil crown disease that produces blackened, decaying crown tissue and collapsed stalks. *Phytophthora cactorum* is the target pathogen, though rhubarb crown rots can involve related soil-borne oomycetes too.

Triggers: Wet soil, water pooling around crowns, heavy clay or poor drainage, and saturated spring and fall conditions all favor Phytophthora crown rot.

On Victoria Rhubarb: Poor drainage and wet soils allow crown decline.

Prevention: Plant in well-drained soil and avoid low soggy areas.

Risk fades when: A longer dry period is needed because crown zones stay wet after rain and infected crowns don't heal.

Root maggot complex Delia spp. complex: D. radicum (cabbage maggot), D. platura (seedcorn maggot), D. florilega, D. planipalpis
High Pest May, Jun, Aug, Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Aug, Sep.

The Delia root-maggot complex includes the cabbage maggot (D. radicum) on brassicas and root crops, the seedcorn maggot (D. platura) on bean/pea/corn seedlings, and several other species. Larvae tunnel into roots, basal stems, and seeds, killing seedlings outright or creating tunnels that ruin root crops for market. A 2021 Oregon industry survey found 100% of root crop growers reported cabbage maggot damage; 44% with 10-25% yield loss.

Triggers: Overwinter as pupae in soil/crop residue. Adults emerge early spring (300-600 GDD base 40°F after Jan 1 in PNW). Cool moist soils favor egg survival; soil >95°F in top 2-3 inches kills eggs. Multiple generations per year. Seedcorn maggot attracted to decaying organic matter — high risk after fresh-incorporated cover crop.

Risk fades when: Cool, wet weather favors root maggots and damage is worst in early spring, dropping to its lowest in midsummer when soil temperatures above about 95 F kill the eggs; a late-summer flight can still injure fall root crops, so risk returns as weather cools (UMaine Extension, Wisconsin Hort, UNH Extension).

Root maggot complex symptoms
Cabbage root maggot (Delia radicum) larva on a brassica root (cropped, resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Rasbak · CC BY-SA 3.0
Aphids Multiple genera: Myzus persicae (green peach aphid), Aphis gossypii (melon aphid), Macrosiphum euphorbiae (potato aphid), Brevicoryne brassicae (cabbage aphid)
Moderate Pest May, Jun, Sep, Oct Peak window months: May, Jun, Sep, Oct.

Aphids are soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on tender new growth. Most established plants tolerate moderate populations and will outgrow damage on their own, but aphids are the most important plant virus vectors in the garden, transmitting more than 100 plant viruses including potato leafroll, cucumber mosaic, and turnip mosaic. Honeydew excreted while feeding supports sooty mold growth and attracts ants that protect aphids from natural enemies.

Triggers: Optimal development at ~75°F (green peach aphid) per UC IPM Floriculture; melon aphid develops fastest above 75°F. Many species heat-intolerant above 90°F and crash in mid-summer. Soft new growth and over-fertilization with high N favor population buildup. Females give live birth parthenogenetically most of growing season — one generation in ~1 week under optimal conditions.

Risk fades when: Per UC IPM and Clemson HGIC, populations crash in mid-summer heat (>90°F) for many species, return in cooler conditions

Aphids symptoms
Aphis pomi (green apple aphid) colony on crab apple stem (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: InfluentialPoints · CC BY 3.0
Bird damage Multiple species: American robin (Turdus migratorius), European starling (Sturnus vulgaris), red-winged blackbird (Agelaius phoeniceus), cedar waxwing (Bombycilla cedrorum), house sparrow
Moderate Pest Jun–Aug Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

Birds cause significant damage to ripening fruit (berries, grapes, figs, cherries), to newly-planted seeds, and to seedlings. Damage peaks during fruit ripening on berries and during seed-head ripening on sunflowers. Robins feed low on bushes; starlings feed in upper canopy; species and feeding patterns vary widely. Even partial damage opens entry points for diseases and insects.

Triggers: Damage seasonal — peak during fruit ripening (June-August in north). Dry years intensify damage as birds use fruit for water. Proximity to forest edges or harvested grain fields amplifies pressure.

Risk fades when: Risk is tied to each crop's ripening window - berries in June through August, corn at silking, sunflower at seed-head fill - so pressure fades once the vulnerable fruit or grain is harvested; netting or row cover during that specific window is the main protection (Oregon State Extension, EM 9286).

Bird damage symptoms
Bird damage on ripening peaches (cropped, resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Forest & Kim Starr · CC BY 3.0 US
Flea beetles Phyllotreta cruciferae (crucifer), Epitrix spp. (potato/tuber/eggplant), Phyllotreta striolata (striped)
Moderate Pest May–Jun Peak window months: May, Jun.

Flea beetles are small (1/16-inch) shiny beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed. They chew small round 'shothole' or 'pinhole' damage in leaves and can destroy emerging cotyledons of broccoli or eggplant in 24 hours. Most species are host-family specific — crucifer flea beetle on brassicas, tuber flea beetle on potatoes, eggplant flea beetle on solanaceous crops.

Triggers: Overwinter as adults in leaf litter and field margins. Active at mid- to late-spring temperatures. Warm winter → higher next-spring populations (NC State). Hot dry conditions amplify damage on stressed seedlings.

Risk fades when: UMN: 1-2 generations in Minnesota, populations crash after mid-June

Flea beetles symptoms
Crucifer flea beetle (Phyllotreta cruciferae) (cropped, resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: AfroBrazilian · CC BY-SA 4.0
Japanese beetle Popillia japonica
Moderate Pest Jun–Aug Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

Japanese beetle adults feed gregariously on the foliage and flowers of more than 300 host species, skeletonizing leaves by chewing tissue between the veins. Larvae (white C-shaped grubs) damage turf and root systems. Adults are active during the warmest part of sunny summer days, when populations can rapidly defoliate roses, grapes, and ornamentals. Do not use Japanese beetle traps near plants — the lures attract more beetles than they catch.

Triggers: One generation per year. Overwinters as larva in soil. Adults emerge late June-early July (peak July). Adults active during warmest part of sunny days. Females lay 40-60 eggs in turf 3 inches deep.

Risk fades when: One generation per year: adult emergence peaks around early August and tapers to the last beetle by about September 1, so above-ground feeding pressure ends in early fall as the adults die off and grubs move underground (UMass Extension, UMN Extension).

Japanese beetle symptoms
Japanese beetles (Popillia japonica) on a skeletonized leaf (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Ryan Hodnett · CC BY-SA 4.0
Leaf spot Ramularia rhei / Ascochyta rhei
Moderate Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

Causes small red to tan spots on rhubarb leaves that enlarge with purple halos and may also mark the stalks. Polygonaceae/rhubarb-specific — won't fire on unrelated leafy vegetables.

Triggers: Frequent rains, splashing water, windblown spores, infected debris, and infected rootstock all favor disease.

On Victoria Rhubarb: Fungal leaf diseases spread in wet weather and dense foliage.

Prevention: Remove old debris and maintain airflow.

Risk fades when: Spores spread by wind and splashing water. Dry weather lowers immediate new lesion pressure.

Root knot nematode Meloidogyne spp. (M. incognita, M. hapla, M. javanica, M. arenaria)
Moderate Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

Microscopic soil-dwelling roundworms that burrow into plant roots and cause swollen knots (galls). Above ground, the plant looks stunted, yellowed, and wilted even with plenty of water. They attack over 2,000 plant species, so almost nothing is safe. They're most active in warm soil (70-85°F) and do more damage in sandy soils, where they move easily. Once a bed has them, populations stick around for years.

Triggers: Soil temperatures of 70-85°F are ideal for them; below 60°F they go dormant. Sandy soils make it easy for them to move and reproduce, while heavy clay slows them down considerably. In warm soil, a full generation completes in about 27 days.

Risk fades when: Activity drops sharply once soil cools below 60°F. Damage stops accumulating for the season, but the population stays in the soil and returns when warmth does.

Root knot nematode symptoms
Root galls on tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) caused by Meloidogyne incognita — Photo: Plant pests and diseases · CC0 1.0
Slugs and snails Cornu aspersum (brown garden snail), Deroceras reticulatum (gray garden slug), Limax maximus, Arion spp.
Moderate Pest Apr, May, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Apr, May, Sep, Oct.

Slugs and snails are nocturnal mollusks that chew irregular holes in leaves and clip off succulent seedlings. They leave characteristic silvery slime trails. Hermaphroditic and prolific, brown garden snails lay around 80 eggs per month for up to six clutches per year.

Triggers: Active at night and early morning in damp conditions. Coastal CA and southeast — active year-round. Spring rains and dense ground cover (mulch, debris, weeds) create harborage.

Risk fades when: Hot, dry summer weather drives slugs and snails into inactivity, so risk drops sharply once conditions turn warm and dry; populations are highest in cool, wet spring and fall, and in mild-winter coastal regions they can stay active year-round (UMN Extension, Penn State, UC IPM).

Slugs and snails symptoms
Gray garden slug (Deroceras reticulatum) on foliage (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: AfroBrazilian · CC BY-SA 3.0
Spider mites Tetranychus urticae (two-spotted spider mite, most common); also broad mite (Polyphagotarsonemus latus), russet mite (Eriophyidae)
Moderate Pest Jul–Aug Peak window months: Jul, Aug.

Spider mites are tiny arachnids (1/50 inch) that feed on the undersides of leaves, producing characteristic silver-yellow stippling. Heavy populations produce visible webbing that interferes with pesticide coverage. They thrive in hot dry weather and drought-stressed plants. The two-spotted spider mite feeds on more than 180 cultivated plant species.

Triggers: Hot dry conditions; >90°F lifecycle <2 weeks. Drought stress amplifies. Broad-spectrum sprays (carbaryl, pyrethroids) trigger outbreaks by killing predators. Wisconsin Ext: 'as little as a month without significant rain during the growing season can favor a mite outbreak.'

Risk fades when: Populations build in hot, dry weather and then crash in late summer and fall as predatory mites catch up, host foliage declines, and cooler, wetter weather and rain set in, so risk fades once the heat and drought break (UC IPM, Colorado State Extension).

Spider mites symptoms
Spider mite (Tetranychidae) infestation with webbing on a young lemon plant (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Paramecium · CC BY-SA 3.0
Thrips Frankliniella occidentalis (western flower thrips), F. tritici (eastern flower thrips), F. fusca (tobacco thrips), Thrips tabaci (onion thrips)
Moderate Pest Mar–May Peak window months: Mar, Apr, May.

Thrips are tiny (1/16 inch) slender insects with fringed wings that puncture and rasp leaf surfaces, leaving silver stippling with black frass dots. The biggest concern is virus vectoring: western flower thrips is the principal vector of tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV) and impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV), which affect more than 600 plant species. Greenhouse and high tunnel infestations can be devastating.

Triggers: Hot dry weather; greenhouse/high tunnel environments. Female lays eggs inside leaf tissue. 2 larval stages feed; 2 non-feeding pupal stages in soil/litter. Lifecycle 10-21 days. Many overlapping generations. Bridge crops (spring wheat, peach, strawberry per NC State) build populations before vegetable hosts available.

Risk fades when: Infestations are worst in hot, dry weather; cool conditions slow development and heavy rain or overhead irrigation knocks populations down sharply, so risk fades as the weather turns cool and wet and rebuilds the following spring (UK Entomology, Cornell IPM).

Thrips symptoms
Thrips feeding injury on pole bean leaves — silvery stippling with dark fecal specks — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Leafminers Liriomyza sativae, Liriomyza trifolii, Pegomya hyoscyami (spinach), Phytomyza gymnostoma (allium)
Low Pest May–Jul Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul.

Leafminers are tiny fly larvae that feed between the upper and lower surfaces of leaves, creating winding pale tunnels or blotchy patches. They rarely kill plants but can ruin the marketability of leafy greens grown for foliage. Allium leafminer is an emerging pest in the eastern US (first detected in Pennsylvania in 2017) that damages onions, garlic, leeks, and chives.

Triggers: Liriomyza trifolii: 1 generation in ~1 month at typical greenhouse temps, 14 days at 95°F, 64 days at 59°F (UC IPM). Adults active mid-day. Allium leafminer emerges late March-early April, second flight September-October. Broad-spectrum insecticides trigger outbreaks by killing parasitoids.

Risk fades when: Parasitic wasps usually bring populations down as the season progresses unless broad-spectrum sprays disrupt them; damage peaks in warm spring and summer flushes and eases in cooler weather, so risk fades with natural-enemy buildup and falling temperatures (USU Extension, PNW Pest Handbook, UC IPM).

Leafminers symptoms
Leafminer serpentine mines on a cucurbit leaf — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Seed stalk When a rhubarb or sorrel crown throws up a thick flower stalk, nothing has gone wrong.
Low Physiological Apr–Aug Peak window months: Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

When a rhubarb or sorrel crown throws up a thick flower stalk, nothing has gone wrong. UMD Extension puts these crops in a category of their own: some biennial and perennial crops naturally produce a seed stalk during the growing season, and it does not interfere with the harvest. The problem is purely economic. Every day the stalk stands, the plant pours energy into flowers and seed instead of into the petioles and leaves you actually eat, and it draws on the crown's reserves to do it. So the remedy is simple and it is the same for both crops: cut the stalk out at the base as soon as you see it, and keep checking, because a crown will send up several. Rhubarb's triggers are worth knowing precisely. UMD lists them: the particular variety, hot spring conditions, poor site conditions - hot, dry, full sun - or a sign that the plants need dividing. Seed-propagated rhubarb bolts more readily than vegetatively propagated crowns. Old heirloom varieties bolt more than modern ones, and old clumps bolt more than young ones. If a plant throws seed stalks year after year and gives few usable petioles, UMD's advice is blunt: replace the cultivar or move the plant.

Triggers: UMD Extension: some biennial or perennial crops will naturally produce a seed stalk during the growing season, which will not interfere with crop harvest - rhubarb, onion and hard-neck garlic are given as examples - and in each case removal of the flower stalk when it appears will redirect the plant's energy into the edible parts. The early appearance of seed stalks in rhubarb may be due to the particular variety, hot spring conditions, poor site conditions (hot, dry, full sun), or a sign that the plants need to be divided. Seed-propagated rhubarb is more likely to produce premature seed stalks than vegetatively propagated plants. If rhubarb consistently produces seed stalks and few usable petioles, replace the plant with a better cultivar or move it to a more suitable site. Older, heirloom rhubarb cultivars bolt more readily than modern ones, and older crowns bolt more than young ones; dividing a mature crown resets this. NOTE ON EVIDENCE: sorrel (Rumex acetosa, R. sanguineus) is included on the strength of UMD's general statement about perennial crops and its identical response - a seed stalk that diverts energy from leaf production, removed the same way. UMD names rhubarb, onion and garlic specifically, not sorrel.

On Victoria Rhubarb: Mature plants or stress can push flower stalk formation.

Prevention: Remove seed stalks promptly and keep plants vigorous.

Risk fades when: Cut the stalk out at the base as soon as you spot it, ideally while it is still a tight bud rather than a tall flowering spike. Use a knife: a flower stalk is fibrous and will not twist and pull off cleanly the way an edible rhubarb petiole does. Do not leave a stub - a long remnant can rot down into the crown and invite slugs. Check the plant repeatedly, because one crown will produce several stalks in a season. The crop itself is unharmed: rhubarb petioles from a bolted plant are perfectly good to eat, and sorrel leaves likewise. For prevention, mulch to keep the crown cool through a hot spring, water so the plant is never drought-stressed, divide crowns every four to six years to reset their maturity, and choose modern cultivars over old heirlooms where bolting is chronic.

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What you'll need

Growing Supplies

Hand-picked for your Victoria Rhubarb, with the extension research behind every recommendation.

Seed starting tray + heat mat

For gardeners who start seeds indoors, this combo improves even germination. Warm-season crops benefit from bottom heat. Look for a rigid tray, cell inserts with drainage, and a heat mat paired with a thermostat.

Source: Utah State University Extension; Iowa State University Extension; Mississippi State University Extension

Our pick

Seedling Heat Mat + Thermostat Combo

Same trusted mat with a digital thermostat so you can dial in exact soil temperature. Peppers want 80-85°F, tomatoes 75-80°F.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Mulch / landscape fabric

Nearly every garden benefits from mulch for weed suppression, moisture conservation, and soil temperature moderation. For most home gardeners, quality organic mulch is the better buy over landscape fabric.

Source: Penn State Extension; Wisconsin Horticulture; Illinois Extension

Our pick

Cleaned Wheat Straw Mulch (3 cu ft, ~20 lbs)

Thoroughly cleaned wheat straw at 3 cubic feet, marketed specifically for vegetable gardens rather than animal bedding or decoration. Better per-pound economics than the 1 cu ft option, with the same extension-recommended material. Strong sales volume (2K+ bought past month) supports product consistency.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Drip irrigation / soaker hose kit

Every gardener benefits from putting water at the root zone instead of on the leaves, because drip and soaker systems reduce foliar disease pressure by limiting leaf wetness and soil splash. A quality kit should include a backflow preventer, filter, pressure reducer, and UV-resistant tubing.

Source: Iowa State University Extension; Colorado State University Extension; UMass Extension

Our pick

Complete Garden Drip Irrigation Kit

Designed for beginners with a step-by-step setup guide. Adjustable emitters, both tubing sizes, and all connectors included.

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Row cover / frost blanket

Row cover adds frost protection, speeds early growth, and physically excludes insect pests without spraying. Look for spun-bonded fabric with a stated weight and frost rating, UV resistance, and enough width for hoops or low tunnels.

Source: University of Maryland Extension; University of New Hampshire Extension; Colorado State University Extension

Our pick

Frost Blanket (10'x30')

Thicker 1.2 oz fabric rated to protect down to 28°F. Covers 300 sq ft — enough for multiple raised beds in a single sheet.

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Research

Sources

Reference material and extension guidance used to build this growing guide.

university UMN Extension - Growing rhubarb in home gardens
Internal links

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