Photo: "Sweet potatoes from a farm in Masvingo" by Shark2025
· CC BY-SA 4.0
Beauregard Sweet Potato
Ipomoea batatas · Convolvulaceae
Beauregard is the most widely grown sweet potato in the US, released by Louisiana State University in 1987. It matures early (90 to 105 days) — critical for northern zones — with red-orange skin, deep orange moist flesh, high yields, and good resistance to soil rot, Fusarium wilt, and root-knot nematode. Sweet potatoes are unrelated to regular potatoes, belonging to the tropical morning-glory family, and are grown from slips (vine sprouts) rather than seed. Curing is mandatory, since uncured roots taste starchy, and they must be harvested before frost. Restricted in some states to stop the sweet potato weevil: Texas and North Carolina block slips from weevil-quarantined areas, California allows them only by permit, and Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, South Carolina, Arkansas and Tennessee require certified, tagged slips (National Plant Board state summaries). Key facts for Beauregard Sweet Potato: 90–105 days to maturity from planting slips, 8+ hours of sun, 12–18" spacing. Can be grown in containers with care (15+ gallon minimum).
Updated October 8, 2026·Backed by 7 cited sources
Overview
At a Glance
The essentials first: timing, light, spacing, seed-starting, container fit, and overall size.
Days to maturity
90–105 days
from planting slips
Sun
8+ hours
Spacing
12–18"
between plants
Container
Possible
Needs 15+ gal minimum
Curing
Required
7–14 days at 80–85°F
80–90% humidity
Uncured sweet potatoes taste starchy, not sweet. Curing converts starch to sugar.
How to cure it
After curing: Store at 55-60°F. Do not refrigerate, chilling injury below 50°F.
Planting window
Zone Planting Guide
Switch zones to see whether this plant is a strong fit, what frost timing looks like, and any extra notes worth planning around.
This card updates instantly with viability, frost timing, and any planting notes for your selected zone.
Care
Growing Guide
Everything in one place: seed starting, transplant timing, watering, soil, and structural support.
Every answer is assembled from this cultivar's own record, so the figures match the rest of the page.
How many days to maturity for Beauregard Sweet Potato?
Beauregard Sweet Potato takes 90–105 days to reach maturity from planting slips.
How far apart should you plant Beauregard Sweet Potato?
Space Beauregard Sweet Potato 12–18 inches apart, with 36–48 inches between rows.
How much sun do Beauregard Sweet Potato need?
Beauregard Sweet Potato needs at least 8 hours of direct sun a day.
How much water do Beauregard Sweet Potato need?
Beauregard Sweet Potato needs 1 inch of water a week, counting rainfall.
What soil pH do Beauregard Sweet Potato need?
Beauregard Sweet Potato grows best in soil with a pH of 5.8–6.2.
Can you grow Beauregard Sweet Potato in containers?
Beauregard Sweet Potato can be grown in containers with extra care. Use a pot of at least 15 gallons.
When is Beauregard Sweet Potato in season?
Beauregard Sweet Potato is a warm-season crop, in season from mid-summer through fall in most regions. Plants reach harvest 90–105 days after planting slips.
Resilience
Plant Health
Stress tolerance, resistance notes, and the most common problems to watch for as plants mature.
Curly top virusBeet curly top virus (BCTV); Geminiviridae, Curtovirus
Severe
Disease
May–SepPeak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.
A virus spread by the beet leafhopper (Circulifer tenellus), mainly a problem in the western US — California, Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, New Mexico, Utah, and Washington. It has a broad host range, infecting beets, tomatoes, peppers, beans, and cucurbits. Infected plants develop curled, thickened leaves with purple-tinged veins on the undersides, stunted growth, and fruit that ripens prematurely. The leafhopper transmits the virus while migrating: it lands and briefly probes plants, and a single feeding of just a few seconds is enough to infect.
Where it lives: Western US, from the Great Plains to the Pacific
Triggers: Driven by leafhopper migration, not weather directly. The bugs overwinter in foothill weeds and head for gardens in late spring once the wild vegetation dries up. Hot, dry years push more of them into populated areas. Symptoms show up 7-14 days after a single leafhopper visit — and a single bite is all it takes.
Risk fades when: Migration peaks in late spring; once the main wave passes, transmission risk drops sharply. The virus doesn't hide in soil or plant debris between seasons, so risk resets each year.
May–SepPeak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.
A soil-borne fungus (Sclerotium rolfsii) that attacks plant stems right at the soil line during hot weather. It hits over 500 different plant species. Two telltale signs to look for: white fan-shaped fungal growth on the lower stem, mulch, and soil surface, and tan-brown spherical sclerotia (they look like mustard seeds) on infected tissue. Most active during sustained heat with humid conditions.
Triggers: Optimal at 86°F (30°C) soil and air temperature with humid conditions. Inactive below 70°F. Most damaging during sustained mid- to late-summer heat waves. It extends further north in warmer-than-normal seasons.
Risk fades when: Sustained cooler weather — highs below 80°F and overnight lows below 70°F for 5+ days — reduces fungal activity. The sclerotia (resting bodies) persist in soil for years, so resolution is seasonal, not curative.
Athelia rolfsii mycelium on peanut (Arachis hypogaea) (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo:
Gerlach W / EcoPort
·
CC BY-SA 3.0
A seedling killer caused by several different fungi working together. It hits vegetables, flowers, herbs, microgreens, and cover-crop seedlings the same way — seeds rot before they emerge, or young seedlings collapse right at the soil line. Wet seed-starting mix and poor airflow in seedling trays are the classic conditions.
Triggers: Wet soil or starting mix, poor drainage, seedlings packed too tightly, contaminated trays or media, and stagnant air all favor damping-off.
Risk fades when: Drying the soil surface and improving airflow slows new spread. Collapsed seedlings don't recover, but the rest of the tray can be saved.
Damping off of coffee seedlings caused by Fusarium sp. — Photo:
Scot Nelson
·
CC0 1.0
May, Jun, Sep, OctPeak window months: May, Jun, Sep, Oct.
Aphids are soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on tender new growth. Most established plants tolerate moderate populations and will outgrow damage on their own, but aphids are the most important plant virus vectors in the garden, transmitting more than 100 plant viruses including potato leafroll, cucumber mosaic, and turnip mosaic. Honeydew excreted while feeding supports sooty mold growth and attracts ants that protect aphids from natural enemies.
Where it lives: Throughout the United States
Triggers: Optimal development at ~75°F (green peach aphid) per UC IPM Floriculture; melon aphid develops fastest above 75°F. Many species heat-intolerant above 90°F and crash in mid-summer. Soft new growth and over-fertilization with high N favor population buildup. Females give live birth parthenogenetically most of growing season — one generation in ~1 week under optimal conditions.
Risk fades when: Per UC IPM and Clemson HGIC, populations crash in mid-summer heat (>90°F) for many species, return in cooler conditions
Aphis pomi (green apple aphid) colony on crab apple stem (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo:
InfluentialPoints
·
CC BY 3.0
Flea beetles are small (1/16-inch) shiny beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed. They chew small round 'shothole' or 'pinhole' damage in leaves and can destroy emerging cotyledons of broccoli or eggplant in 24 hours. Most species are host-family specific — crucifer flea beetle on brassicas, tuber flea beetle on potatoes, eggplant flea beetle on solanaceous crops.
Where it lives: Across the US
Triggers: Overwinter as adults in leaf litter and field margins. Active at mid- to late-spring temperatures. Warm winter → higher next-spring populations (NC State). Hot dry conditions amplify damage on stressed seedlings.
Risk fades when: UMN: 1-2 generations in Minnesota, populations crash after mid-June
Crucifer flea beetle (Phyllotreta cruciferae) (cropped, resized, converted to WebP) — Photo:
AfroBrazilian
·
CC BY-SA 4.0
Root knot nematodeMeloidogyne spp. (M. incognita, M. hapla, M. javanica, M. arenaria)
Moderate
Disease
May–SepPeak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.
Microscopic soil-dwelling roundworms that burrow into plant roots and cause swollen knots (galls). Above ground, the plant looks stunted, yellowed, and wilted even with plenty of water. They attack over 2,000 plant species, so almost nothing is safe. They're most active in warm soil (70-85°F) and do more damage in sandy soils, where they move easily. Once a bed has them, populations stick around for years.
Triggers: Soil temperatures of 70-85°F are ideal for them; below 60°F they go dormant. Sandy soils make it easy for them to move and reproduce, while heavy clay slows them down considerably. In warm soil, a full generation completes in about 27 days.
Risk fades when: Activity drops sharply once soil cools below 60°F. Damage stops accumulating for the season, but the population stays in the soil and returns when warmth does.
Apr, May, Sep, OctPeak window months: Apr, May, Sep, Oct.
Slugs and snails are nocturnal mollusks that chew irregular holes in leaves and clip off succulent seedlings. They leave characteristic silvery slime trails. Hermaphroditic and prolific, brown garden snails lay around 80 eggs per month for up to six clutches per year.
Where it lives: Across the US, including watered gardens in the desert Southwest
Triggers: Active at night and early morning in damp conditions. Coastal CA and southeast — active year-round. Spring rains and dense ground cover (mulch, debris, weeds) create harborage.
Risk fades when: Hot, dry summer weather drives slugs and snails into inactivity, so risk drops sharply once conditions turn warm and dry; populations are highest in cool, wet spring and fall, and in mild-winter coastal regions they can stay active year-round (UMN Extension, Penn State, UC IPM).
Gray garden slug (Deroceras reticulatum) on foliage (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo:
AfroBrazilian
·
CC BY-SA 3.0
WirewormsElateridae (click beetle larvae; several genera, including Conoderus, Melanotus and Limonius)
Moderate
Pest
Apr, May, Jun, Aug, Sep, OctPeak window months: Apr, May, Jun, Aug, Sep, Oct.
Wireworms are the larvae of click beetles. They live in the soil, eating seeds, seedlings, roots and tubers, and they bore small holes and tunnels into potatoes and sweet potatoes that can make them unusable. For home-garden sweet potatoes, UGA Extension says wireworms and root-knot nematodes seem to be the biggest problems. Their main food is the roots of grasses, so the worst damage comes in gardens dug out of sod or lawn within the past few years. Some kinds take several years to grow up, so a problem bed can stay a problem for years. Severe outbreaks are rare, and once you see damage no spray will fix it: the steps that work are taken before planting.
Where it lives: Found across the US; different wireworm species are the main pests in different regions
Triggers: Larvae and adults spend the winter 9 to 24 inches deep in the soil. In spring, once the soil warms to about 50 F, larvae feed within the top 6 inches; when the soil gets too hot (above 80 F) or dry they go deeper, and as the soil cools in fall they may feed near the surface again. They like moist, cool, heavy soil. Female click beetles lay eggs in grassy, weedy areas, which is why ground that was sod or lawn has the most wireworms. How long one generation takes depends on the kind: from one to six years. The corn wireworm takes up to six years, so larvae of every size are in the soil at once. In the Southeast, the southern potato wireworm has one or two generations a year and the tobacco wireworm has one.
Risk fades when: Wireworms do most of their damage in early spring, when they are near the soil surface; in summer they move deeper, and as the soil cools they may feed near the surface again (NDSU Extension). They become active and look for food as soon as the soil warms in spring (UMass Extension). In the Southeast, wireworms usually attack potatoes and sweet potatoes late in the season (Clemson HGIC; NC State Extension). The month numbers are a reading of 'spring' and 'late season' for most of the US; spring comes earlier in the South and later in the North.
Feeding & picking
Nutrition & Harvest
How hungry the plant is, what ripe harvest looks like, and how long the crop keeps after picking.
Feeding
Nutrition
Feeding intensityModerate feeder
Plant relationships
Companion Planting
Helpful neighbors can support growth or deter pests. Keep antagonistic plants separated to reduce stress and competition.
Roots release alpha-terthienyl and related compounds that can suppress root-knot nematodes (microscopic soil worms) when marigolds are grown densely enough for active root/nematode interaction.
Most effective as a dense cover-crop-style stand for a full season before rotating to vegetables. Casual interplanting does not control nematodes.
Pungent scent deters deer, rabbits, whiteflies. Volatile compounds mask vegetable scent from pest insects.
UMN Extension; Illinois Extension
Pollinators
Attracts bees, butterflies, hoverflies throughout long bloom season.
Beneficial insects
Attracts ladybugs, parasitic wasps, lacewings.
French marigolds are documented by UC IPM for suppression of some root-knot and lesion nematodes; use this only where nematodes are a known risk, and otherwise rely on loose soil, thinning, and rotation.
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Planting reminders for Beauregard Sweet Potato
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What you'll need
Growing Supplies
Hand-picked for your Beauregard Sweet Potato, with the extension research behind every recommendation.
Mulch / landscape fabric
Nearly every garden benefits from mulch for weed suppression, moisture conservation, and soil temperature moderation. For most home gardeners, quality organic mulch is the better buy over landscape fabric.
Source: Penn State Extension; Wisconsin Horticulture; Illinois Extension
Every gardener benefits from putting water at the root zone instead of on the leaves, because drip and soaker systems reduce foliar disease pressure by limiting leaf wetness and soil splash. A quality kit should include a backflow preventer, filter, pressure reducer, and UV-resistant tubing.
Source: Iowa State University Extension; Colorado State University Extension; UMass Extension
Row cover adds frost protection, speeds early growth, and physically excludes insect pests without spraying. Look for spun-bonded fabric with a stated weight and frost rating, UV resistance, and enough width for hoops or low tunnels.
Source: University of Maryland Extension; University of New Hampshire Extension; Colorado State University Extension
K-State Research and Extension and University of Maryland Extension recommend shade cloth as a heat-management tool for vegetable gardens, with 30 percent shade rating most effective for tomatoes, peppers, and fruiting crops, and 40 to 50 percent for protecting heat-sensitive greens during hot summer months. University of Delaware research found 30 percent black shade cloth tripled marketable yield for bell peppers compared to unshaded plants, and Purdue trials showed shade cloth reduced maximum daily temperatures by 8 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Choose knitted polyethylene with reinforced grommets every 18 to 24 inches, mount on hoops or a frame with open sides for airflow, and remove or vent during prolonged wet weather to avoid increased humidity in the canopy.
Source: K-State Research and Extension; University of Maryland Extension; University of Delaware Cooperative Extension; Purdue University Extension
Reflective plastic mulch (white-on-black or silver)
North Carolina State Extension reports that white-on-black plastic mulch can reduce soil temperature by 5 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit and silver mulch by about 6 degrees, the opposite effect of black mulch which warms soil. This makes reflective mulch the appropriate plasticulture choice for hot zones (especially Zone 9a desert and other high-heat low-humidity areas) where overheating limits warm-season crop performance more than cold soil. Silver mulch adds documented aphid and thrips repellency from the reflective surface. Use only with drip irrigation installed underneath, never use plastic mulch without irrigation, and reserve for late spring or early fall plantings where the surrounding heat is the primary stress.
Source: North Carolina State Extension; University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
A soil test gives a baseline for pH and nutrient status so gardeners can add only what the soil actually needs. Prioritize a mail-in or lab-affiliated kit whenever possible because extension guidance notes that laboratory testing is more accurate than instant readers. Routine pH and nutrient tests do not include lead, so if you garden near an older painted building, a busy road or an old industrial site, ask your extension lab for a lead test (US EPA; University of Minnesota Extension). At 200 ppm lead or more, grow food in raised beds of clean soil, peel root crops, wash all produce, and keep children from eating soil (US EPA).
Source: University of Maryland Extension; Purdue Extension; Montana State University Extension; US EPA; University of Minnesota Extension
University of Minnesota Extension recommends measuring soil temperature 2 to 4 inches below the surface to decide when warm-season crops can actually be planted, because air temperature and average frost dates do not reliably predict whether soil is warm enough for germination. A dedicated soil thermometer with a 4 to 6 inch stainless steel probe gives gardeners a deterministic reading instead of relying on the calendar alone, which matters most in zones with wide last-frost variability. Look for a waterproof stainless steel stem, a clearly marked vegetable-garden temperature range, and a readable analog or digital display at planting depth.
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension notes that most vegetables root in the top 12 to 24 inches of soil and that hot, dry periods require more frequent irrigation, but watering by habit often wets only the top inch while leaving the root zone dry. A dedicated soil moisture meter with a long probe gives gardeners a deterministic reading at root depth instead of guessing from surface appearance, which is most critical in low-rainfall desert zones (Zone 9a Phoenix) and in raised beds or containers that dry from the top down. Look for a single-purpose moisture meter (not a 3-in-1 or 4-in-1 combo, which trade accuracy for feature count) with a probe that reaches 8 to 12 inches and a clear analog or digital display.
Source: University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
UF/IFAS Extension and Texas A&M AgriLife Extension recommend securing or removing trellises, shade cloth, hoop covers, container plants, and lightweight raised-bed accessories before tropical storms and hurricanes, since loose garden items become projectiles in high winds. Most-relevant for Gulf Coast Zone 8b (Houston, Mobile, New Orleans), Florida Zone 9b (Miami, Tampa), and any coastal area within the Atlantic and Gulf hurricane corridors. Galvanized steel ground anchors resist rust in humid coastal soils, and screw-in spiral anchors hold significantly better than driven stakes in saturated soil during storm conditions. Use quick-release fasteners on shade cloth and trellises so they can be removed quickly when a storm watch is issued.
Extension guidance favors bypass designs because they make cleaner, closer cuts on living tissue than anvil types. Look for hardened steel blades that can be sharpened, a comfortable grip, and a cutting capacity matched to real home-garden stems.
Source: University of New Hampshire Extension; Iowa State University Extension; Purdue University Extension
Raised beds improve drainage, let gardeners control soil from day one, reduce compaction, and make gardening more accessible. A quality kit should use rot-resistant, food-safe materials and provide enough depth for productive rooting. If your yard soil may hold lead, fill beds with clean soil over garden fabric (US EPA).
Source: Penn State Extension; University of Delaware Cooperative Extension; Illinois Extension
The most useful mix is three categories: a beginner guide, a reference manual for diagnosis and crop-by-crop lookup, and a soil science book. Look for region-aware editions, strong visuals, and evidence-based authorship.
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Research
Sources
Reference material and extension guidance used to build this growing guide.