Empress of India is a classic compact nasturtium known for vivid scarlet flowers set against dark bluish-green foliage. Plants stay neat and low, making them excellent for borders, containers, and formal edible-flower beds. Flowers and leaves are edible and pleasantly peppery. Key facts: 50–60 days to maturity, 6+ hours of sun, 10–14 " spacing. Container-friendly (minimum 2-gallon pot).
Updated June 1, 2026·Backed by 4 cited sources
Overview
At a Glance
The essentials first: timing, light, spacing, seed-starting, container fit, and overall size.
Days to maturity
50–60 days
Sun
6+ hours
Full Sun, 6 8 Hours
Spacing
10–14 "
between plants
Seed start
0–3 weeks
before transplant
Container
Yes
2+ gallon pot
Height
0.75–1 ft
at maturity
Planting window
Zone Planting Guide
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Care
Growing Guide
Everything in one place: seed starting, transplant timing, watering, soil, and structural support.
Corn earworm is the same species as tomato fruitworm and cotton bollworm — a polyphagous caterpillar that bores into ears of corn through fresh silks, into tomato and pepper fruit, into lettuce heads, and into bean and pea pods. In sweet corn, losses can reach 50%. The species migrates north annually from southern overwintering grounds; in much of the northern US, it does not survive the winter when temperatures drop below 30°F.
Triggers: Overwinters as pupa in top 2-4 inches of soil where winter temps permit. North of I-70 (Illinois IPM): does not reliably overwinter — populations arrive via migration mid-July through September. Females prefer fresh corn silks for egg-laying; older silks rejected.
A seedling killer caused by several different fungi working together. It hits vegetables, flowers, herbs, microgreens, and cover-crop seedlings the same way — seeds rot before they emerge, or young seedlings collapse right at the soil line. Wet seed-starting mix and poor airflow in seedling trays are the classic conditions.
Triggers: Wet soil or starting mix, poor drainage, seedlings packed too tightly, contaminated trays or media, and stagnant air all favor damping-off.
Risk fades when: Drying the soil surface and improving airflow slows new spread. Collapsed seedlings don't recover, but the rest of the tray can be saved.
Damping off of coffee seedlings caused by Fusarium sp. — Photo:
Scot Nelson
·
CC0 1.0
Aphids are soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on tender new growth. Most established plants tolerate moderate populations and will outgrow damage on their own, but aphids are the most important plant virus vectors in the garden, transmitting more than 100 plant viruses including potato leafroll, cucumber mosaic, and turnip mosaic. Honeydew excreted while feeding supports sooty mold growth and attracts ants that protect aphids from natural enemies.
Triggers: Optimal development at ~75°F (green peach aphid) per UC IPM Floriculture; melon aphid develops fastest above 75°F. Many species heat-intolerant above 90°F and crash in mid-summer. Soft new growth and over-fertilization with high N favor population buildup. Females give live birth parthenogenetically most of growing season — one generation in ~1 week under optimal conditions.
On Empress of India: Tender new growth attracts aphid colonies.
Prevention: Encourage beneficial insects and hose off colonies early.
Risk fades when: Per UC IPM and Clemson HGIC, populations crash in mid-summer heat (>90°F) for many species, return in cooler conditions
Bird damageMultiple species: American robin (Turdus migratorius), European starling (Sturnus vulgaris), red-winged blackbird (Agelaius phoeniceus), cedar waxwing (Bombycilla cedrorum), house sparrow
Moderate
Pest
Jun–AugPeak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.
Birds cause significant damage to ripening fruit (berries, grapes, figs, cherries), to newly-planted seeds, and to seedlings. Damage peaks during fruit ripening on berries and during seed-head ripening on sunflowers. Robins feed low on bushes; starlings feed in upper canopy; species and feeding patterns vary widely. Even partial damage opens entry points for diseases and insects.
Triggers: Damage seasonal — peak during fruit ripening (June-August in north). Dry years intensify damage as birds use fruit for water. Proximity to forest edges or harvested grain fields amplifies pressure.
Risk fades when: OSU EM 9286
Crown rotWaterlogged soils can rot seeds, stems, or roots.
Moderate
Physiological
No data
Waterlogged soils can rot seeds, stems, or roots.
On Empress of India: Waterlogged soils can rot seeds, stems, or roots.
Prevention: Use well-drained soil and avoid overwatering.
Downy mildew (flowers)Peronospora and Plasmopara species
Moderate
Disease
SummerPeak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.
A group of cool-weather water molds that attack many ornamentals, including snapdragons, sunflowers, and impatiens-type bedding plants. It shows as pale or yellow patches on the upper leaf surface with a downy gray-to-purple growth on the underside, and young plants can collapse. It needs cool temperatures, high humidity, and leaf wetness.
Triggers: Favored by cool temperatures (about 50-70°F), humidity of 90% or higher, and free moisture on the leaves. Distinct from powdery mildew, which prefers dry leaves.
Risk fades when: Warm, dry weather suppresses it. Three dry days with highs above 75°F exits the active window; infected leaves stay damaged.
FloppingFlopping happens when stem strength can't support the plant's mass — usually because the plant grew too fast, didn't get enough sun to build strong stems, or got too much nitrogen which pushes soft leafy growth at the…
Moderate
Physiological
SpringPeak window months: Mar, Apr, May.
Flopping happens when stem strength can't support the plant's mass — usually because the plant grew too fast, didn't get enough sun to build strong stems, or got too much nitrogen which pushes soft leafy growth at the expense of structural strength. Rain and wind compound the problem by weighing down soft tissue. Some plants are inherently floppy — peony, dahlia, delphinium, large mum, tall sunflower — and need staking from the start. Others normally hold themselves up but flop when grown in shade or overfed. Stake early (in spring before plants have grown into their support) rather than late (when stems are already bent and a stake just preserves the deformity). Pruning or pinching tall plants when young encourages branching and reduces flop risk.
Triggers: Per MSU Extension: full sun produces sturdy self-supporting plants; shade or over-fertilization produces soft top-heavy growth. Rain and wind accelerate flop. Plants with naturally heavy blooms (peony, dahlia, large lily, hollyhock) need staking from start.
Risk fades when: Stake early in spring before too much growth. Late staking just preserves the bend. Pinch tall plants when young to encourage branching. Reduce nitrogen feeding if plants are floppy and overgrown.
Gray moldBotrytis cinerea
Moderate
Disease
SummerPeak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.
Fuzzy gray mold on flowers, fruit, and wounded tissue. It thrives in cool, humid, enclosed spaces — University of Minnesota notes this is unlikely to be a problem in open home gardens and rare even in field tomatoes. It's mostly a greenhouse and high-tunnel concern, included here because SoilStack supports those growing environments.
Triggers: Develops at 60-75°F with humidity above 80%. Infection requires 4-6 hours of standing water on the plant tissue. UMN's data shows it's unlikely in open home gardens.
Risk fades when: Temperatures above 82°F suppress growth and spore production. That's the published threshold.
Japanese beetle adults feed gregariously on the foliage and flowers of more than 300 host species, skeletonizing leaves by chewing tissue between the veins. Larvae (white C-shaped grubs) damage turf and root systems. Adults are active during the warmest part of sunny summer days, when populations can rapidly defoliate roses, grapes, and ornamentals. Do not use Japanese beetle traps near plants — the lures attract more beetles than they catch.
Triggers: One generation per year. Overwinters as larva in soil. Adults emerge late June-early July (peak July). Adults active during warmest part of sunny days. Females lay 40-60 eggs in turf 3 inches deep.
Risk fades when: Multiple sources confirm one generation, peak July
Nasturtium leaf spot — includes both a bacterial leaf spot caused by *Pseudomonas* spp. and a fungal Cercospora leaf spot. Both produce spotted leaves and can collapse plants during wet weather. The bacteria persist in soil debris and can infect through roots; both pathogens spread by splashing water.
Triggers: Splashing water, overhead irrigation, infected debris, contaminated tools, and infected planting locations all spread these pathogens. Roots can also become infected by Pseudomonas through wet soil contact.
Risk fades when: Splash-driven spread requires wet foliage. A dry period interrupts new infection pressure.
Poor floweringExcess nitrogen or overly rich soil drives leafy growth instead of blooms.
Moderate
Physiological
No data
Excess nitrogen or overly rich soil drives leafy growth instead of blooms.
On Empress of India: Excess nitrogen or overly rich soil drives leafy growth instead of blooms.
Prevention: Use moderate fertility and avoid high-nitrogen feeding.
Rust (flowers)Puccinia and Coleosporium species
Moderate
Disease
WinterPeak window months: Jan, Feb, Dec.
Rust fungi that infect many ornamentals, including sunflowers, asters, and other annuals. They produce powdery orange, yellow, or brown pustules, usually on the undersides of leaves, with yellow flecking on the upper surface. Heavy infection yellows and drops leaves and weakens the plant. Rust is favored by humidity and leaf wetness.
Triggers: Favored by humidity and extended leaf wetness. Pustules on leaf undersides release powdery spores that spread on wind and splashing water; many rusts overwinter in debris.
Risk fades when: Hot or dry weather slows rust. Two days above 85°F or three dry days exits the active window; existing pustules remain.
Slugs and snails are nocturnal mollusks that chew irregular holes in leaves and clip off succulent seedlings. They leave characteristic silvery slime trails. Hermaphroditic and prolific, brown garden snails lay around 80 eggs per month for up to six clutches per year.
Triggers: Active at night and early morning in damp conditions. Coastal CA and southeast — active year-round. Spring rains and dense ground cover (mulch, debris, weeds) create harborage.
Risk fades when: UC IPM
Spider mitesTetranychus urticae (two-spotted spider mite, most common); also broad mite (Polyphagotarsonemus latus), russet mite (Eriophyidae)
Moderate
Pest
Jul–SepPeak window months: Jul, Aug, Sep.
Spider mites are tiny arachnids (1/50 inch) that feed on the undersides of leaves, producing characteristic silver-yellow stippling. Heavy populations produce visible webbing that interferes with pesticide coverage. They thrive in hot dry weather and drought-stressed plants. The two-spotted spider mite feeds on more than 180 cultivated plant species.
Triggers: Hot dry conditions; >90°F lifecycle <2 weeks. Drought stress amplifies. Broad-spectrum sprays (carbaryl, pyrethroids) trigger outbreaks by killing predators. Wisconsin Ext: 'as little as a month without significant rain during the growing season can favor a mite outbreak.'
Risk fades when: UMN Extension
ThripsFrankliniella occidentalis (western flower thrips), F. tritici (eastern flower thrips), F. fusca (tobacco thrips), Thrips tabaci (onion thrips)
Moderate
Pest
SpringPeak window months: Mar, Apr, May.
Thrips are tiny (1/16 inch) slender insects with fringed wings that puncture and rasp leaf surfaces, leaving silver stippling with black frass dots. The biggest concern is virus vectoring: western flower thrips is the principal vector of tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV) and impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV), which affect more than 600 plant species. Greenhouse and high tunnel infestations can be devastating.
Triggers: Hot dry weather; greenhouse/high tunnel environments. Female lays eggs inside leaf tissue. 2 larval stages feed; 2 non-feeding pupal stages in soil/litter. Lifecycle 10-21 days. Many overlapping generations. Bridge crops (spring wheat, peach, strawberry per NC State) build populations before vegetable hosts available.
Leafminers are tiny fly larvae that feed between the upper and lower surfaces of leaves, creating winding pale tunnels or blotchy patches. They rarely kill plants but can ruin the marketability of leafy greens grown for foliage. Allium leafminer is an emerging pest in the eastern US (first detected in Pennsylvania in 2017) that damages onions, garlic, leeks, and chives.
Triggers: Liriomyza trifolii: 1 generation in ~1 month at typical greenhouse temps, 14 days at 95°F, 64 days at 59°F (UC IPM). Adults active mid-day. Allium leafminer emerges late March-early April, second flight September-October. Broad-spectrum insecticides trigger outbreaks by killing parasitoids.
Risk fades when: UMD
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Feeding & picking
Nutrition & Harvest
How hungry the plant is, what ripe harvest looks like, and how long the crop keeps after picking.
Feeding
Nutrition
Feeding intensityLight feeder
RecipesWorm Castings Topdress, Compost Tea
Timing
Harvest
Harvest flowers when freshly opened and leaves while young and tender. Seed pods can also be picked green for pickling.
Expected yield0.1–0.5 lbs/plant
Storage2 days — Use flowers and leaves fresh; refrigerate briefly in a dry container if needed.
Plant relationships
Companion Planting
Helpful neighbors can support growth or deter pests. Keep antagonistic plants separated to reduce stress and competition.
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What you'll need
Growing Supplies
Based on Empress of India's growth profile -- recommendations matched to this variety's specific requirements.
Seed starting tray + heat mat
For gardeners who start seeds indoors, this combo improves even germination. Warm-season crops benefit from bottom heat. Look for a rigid tray, cell inserts with drainage, and a heat mat paired with a thermostat.
Source: Utah State University Extension; Iowa State University Extension; Mississippi State University Extension
Nearly every garden benefits from mulch for weed suppression, moisture conservation, and soil temperature moderation. For most home gardeners, quality organic mulch is the better buy over landscape fabric.
Source: Penn State Extension; Wisconsin Horticulture; Illinois Extension
Every gardener benefits from putting water at the root zone instead of on the leaves, because drip and soaker systems reduce foliar disease pressure by limiting leaf wetness and soil splash. A quality kit should include a backflow preventer, filter, pressure reducer, and UV-resistant tubing.
Source: Iowa State University Extension; Colorado State University Extension; UMass Extension
Row cover adds frost protection, speeds early growth, and physically excludes insect pests without spraying. Look for spun-bonded fabric with a stated weight and frost rating, UV resistance, and enough width for hoops or low tunnels.
Source: University of Maryland Extension; University of New Hampshire Extension; Colorado State University Extension
K-State Research and Extension and University of Maryland Extension recommend shade cloth as a heat-management tool for vegetable gardens, with 30 percent shade rating most effective for tomatoes, peppers, and fruiting crops, and 40 to 50 percent for protecting heat-sensitive greens during hot summer months. University of Delaware research found 30 percent black shade cloth tripled marketable yield for bell peppers compared to unshaded plants, and Purdue trials showed shade cloth reduced maximum daily temperatures by 8 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Choose knitted polyethylene with reinforced grommets every 18 to 24 inches, mount on hoops or a frame with open sides for airflow, and remove or vent during prolonged wet weather to avoid increased humidity in the canopy.
Source: K-State Research and Extension; University of Maryland Extension; University of Delaware Cooperative Extension; Purdue University Extension
Reflective plastic mulch (white-on-black or silver)
North Carolina State Extension reports that white-on-black plastic mulch can reduce soil temperature by 5 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit and silver mulch by about 6 degrees, the opposite effect of black mulch which warms soil. This makes reflective mulch the appropriate plasticulture choice for hot zones (especially Zone 9a desert and other high-heat low-humidity areas) where overheating limits warm-season crop performance more than cold soil. Silver mulch adds documented aphid and thrips repellency from the reflective surface. Use only with drip irrigation installed underneath, never use plastic mulch without irrigation, and reserve for late spring or early fall plantings where the surrounding heat is the primary stress.
Source: North Carolina State Extension; University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
A soil test gives a baseline for pH and nutrient status so gardeners can add only what the soil actually needs. Prioritize a mail-in or lab-affiliated kit whenever possible because extension guidance notes that laboratory testing is more accurate than instant readers.
Source: University of Maryland Extension; Purdue Extension; Montana State University Extension
University of Minnesota Extension recommends measuring soil temperature 2 to 4 inches below the surface to decide when warm-season crops can actually be planted, because air temperature and average frost dates do not reliably predict whether soil is warm enough for germination. A dedicated soil thermometer with a 4 to 6 inch stainless steel probe gives gardeners a deterministic reading instead of relying on the calendar alone, which matters most in zones with wide last-frost variability. Look for a waterproof stainless steel stem, a clearly marked vegetable-garden temperature range, and a readable analog or digital display at planting depth.
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension notes that most vegetables root in the top 12 to 24 inches of soil and that hot, dry periods require more frequent irrigation, but watering by habit often wets only the top inch while leaving the root zone dry. A dedicated soil moisture meter with a long probe gives gardeners a deterministic reading at root depth instead of guessing from surface appearance, which is most critical in low-rainfall desert zones (Zone 9a Phoenix) and in raised beds or containers that dry from the top down. Look for a single-purpose moisture meter (not a 3-in-1 or 4-in-1 combo, which trade accuracy for feature count) with a probe that reaches 8 to 12 inches and a clear analog or digital display.
Source: University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
UF/IFAS Extension and Texas A&M AgriLife Extension recommend securing or removing trellises, shade cloth, hoop covers, container plants, and lightweight raised-bed accessories before tropical storms and hurricanes, since loose garden items become projectiles in high winds. Most-relevant for Gulf Coast Zone 8b (Houston, Mobile, New Orleans), Florida Zone 9b (Miami, Tampa), and any coastal area within the Atlantic and Gulf hurricane corridors. Galvanized steel ground anchors resist rust in humid coastal soils, and screw-in spiral anchors hold significantly better than driven stakes in saturated soil during storm conditions. Use quick-release fasteners on shade cloth and trellises so they can be removed quickly when a storm watch is issued.
Extension guidance favors bypass designs because they make cleaner, closer cuts on living tissue than anvil types. Look for hardened steel blades that can be sharpened, a comfortable grip, and a cutting capacity matched to real home-garden stems.
Source: University of New Hampshire Extension; Iowa State University Extension; Purdue University Extension
Raised beds improve drainage, let gardeners control soil from day one, reduce compaction, and make gardening more accessible. A quality kit should use rot-resistant, food-safe materials and provide enough depth for productive rooting.
Source: Penn State Extension; University of Delaware Cooperative Extension; Illinois Extension
The most useful mix is three categories: a beginner guide, a reference manual for diagnosis and crop-by-crop lookup, and a soil science book. Look for region-aware editions, strong visuals, and evidence-based authorship.
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Research
Sources
Reference material and extension guidance used to build this growing guide.
university_extension NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox, Tropaeolum majusuniversity_extension NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox, Tropaeolumseed_catalog Johnny's Selected Seeds, Nasturtium growing informationseed_catalog Plant World Seeds, Tropaeolum majus Empress of India
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