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Summer Savory
Photo: "Summer savory (Satureja hortensis) plant foliage" by Josef Schlaghecken · CC BY-SA 4.0

Summer Savory

Satureja Hortensis · Lamiaceae

Tender annual savory with fine aromatic foliage and a peppery flavor classically paired with beans and summer vegetables. Fast growing in warm sun and best harvested before or just as flowers begin. Key facts: 55–65 days to maturity, 6+ hours of sun, 6–10 " spacing. Container-friendly (minimum 1-gallon pot).

Updated June 1, 2026 · Backed by 3 cited sources
Overview

At a Glance

The essentials first: timing, light, spacing, seed-starting, container fit, and overall size.

Days to maturity
55–65 days
Sun
6+ hours
Full Sun, 6-8+ Hours
Spacing
6–10 "
between plants
Seed start
0–4 weeks
before transplant
Container
Yes
1+ gallon pot
Height
0.75–1.5 ft
at maturity
Planting window

Zone Planting Guide

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This card updates instantly with viability, frost timing, and any planting notes for your selected zone.

Resilience

Plant Health

Stress tolerance, resistance notes, and the most common problems to watch for as plants mature.

Tolerance
Heat: High Cold: Low Drought: Moderate

Watch for these first

Sort
Issue Severity Category Peak window
Southern blight Sclerotium rolfsii (= Athelia rolfsii / Agroathelia rolfsii)
Severe Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

A soil-borne fungus (*Sclerotium rolfsii*) that attacks plant stems right at the soil line during hot weather. It hits over 500 different plant species. Two telltale signs to look for: white fan-shaped fungal growth on the lower stem, mulch, and soil surface, and tan-brown spherical sclerotia (they look like mustard seeds) on infected tissue. Most active during sustained heat with humid conditions.

Triggers: Optimal at 86°F (30°C) soil and air temperature with humid conditions. Inactive below 70°F. Most damaging during sustained mid- to late-summer heat waves. It extends further north in warmer-than-normal seasons.

Risk fades when: Sustained cooler weather — highs below 80°F and overnight lows below 70°F for 5+ days — reduces fungal activity. The sclerotia (resting bodies) persist in soil for years, so resolution is seasonal, not curative.

Southern blight symptoms
Athelia rolfsii mycelium on peanut (Arachis hypogaea) (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Gerlach W / EcoPort · CC BY-SA 3.0
Damping off Pythium spp. / Rhizoctonia solani / Fusarium spp.
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A seedling killer caused by several different fungi working together. It hits vegetables, flowers, herbs, microgreens, and cover-crop seedlings the same way — seeds rot before they emerge, or young seedlings collapse right at the soil line. Wet seed-starting mix and poor airflow in seedling trays are the classic conditions.

Triggers: Wet soil or starting mix, poor drainage, seedlings packed too tightly, contaminated trays or media, and stagnant air all favor damping-off.

Risk fades when: Drying the soil surface and improving airflow slows new spread. Collapsed seedlings don't recover, but the rest of the tray can be saved.

Damping off symptoms
Damping off of coffee seedlings caused by Fusarium sp. — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Root rot Pythium spp. / Phytophthora capsici
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A water mold (not a true fungus) that attacks roots and crowns in waterlogged soil. It's most dangerous in heavy, poorly drained soil after extended rain — basically any time water sits around plant roots for days.

Triggers: Pythium infects from 50-95°F as long as the soil stays saturated. Phytophthora capsici is most active at 75-85°F. What matters most is how long the soil stays waterlogged, not just whether it rained.

On Summer Savory: Poor drainage or excessive irrigation

Prevention: Use well-drained soil and water only as needed

Risk fades when: Risk fades when soil returns to field capacity (normal drained moisture). How long that takes depends on your soil — sand drains in hours, clay can take days.

Root rot symptoms
Bell pepper plant with Phytophthora capsici infestation (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Don Ferrin, Louisiana State University Agricultural Center · CC BY 3.0
Aphids Multiple genera: Myzus persicae (green peach aphid), Aphis gossypii (melon aphid), Macrosiphum euphorbiae (potato aphid), Brevicoryne brassicae (cabbage aphid)
Moderate Pest May, Jun, Sep, Oct Peak window months: May, Jun, Sep, Oct.

Aphids are soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on tender new growth. Most established plants tolerate moderate populations and will outgrow damage on their own, but aphids are the most important plant virus vectors in the garden, transmitting more than 100 plant viruses including potato leafroll, cucumber mosaic, and turnip mosaic. Honeydew excreted while feeding supports sooty mold growth and attracts ants that protect aphids from natural enemies.

Triggers: Optimal development at ~75°F (green peach aphid) per UC IPM Floriculture; melon aphid develops fastest above 75°F. Many species heat-intolerant above 90°F and crash in mid-summer. Soft new growth and over-fertilization with high N favor population buildup. Females give live birth parthenogenetically most of growing season — one generation in ~1 week under optimal conditions.

On Summer Savory: Tender overfed growth attracts sap feeders

Prevention: Avoid excess nitrogen and encourage airflow

Risk fades when: Per UC IPM and Clemson HGIC, populations crash in mid-summer heat (>90°F) for many species, return in cooler conditions

Aphids symptoms
Aphis pomi (green apple aphid) colony on crab apple stem (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: InfluentialPoints · CC BY 3.0
Flopping Flopping happens when stem strength can't support the plant's mass — usually because the plant grew too fast, didn't get enough sun to build strong stems, or got too much nitrogen which pushes soft leafy growth at the…
Moderate Physiological Jun–Sep Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

Flopping happens when stem strength can't support the plant's mass — usually because the plant grew too fast, didn't get enough sun to build strong stems, or got too much nitrogen which pushes soft leafy growth at the expense of structural strength. Rain and wind compound the problem by weighing down soft tissue. Some plants are inherently floppy — peony, dahlia, delphinium, large mum, tall sunflower — and need staking from the start. Others normally hold themselves up but flop when grown in shade or overfed. Stake early (in spring before plants have grown into their support) rather than late (when stems are already bent and a stake just preserves the deformity). Pruning or pinching tall plants when young encourages branching and reduces flop risk.

Triggers: Per MSU Extension: full sun produces sturdy self-supporting plants; shade or over-fertilization produces soft top-heavy growth. Rain and wind accelerate flop. Plants with naturally heavy blooms (peony, dahlia, large lily, hollyhock) need staking from start.

Risk fades when: Stake early in spring before too much growth. Late staking just preserves the bend. Pinch tall plants when young to encourage branching. Reduce nitrogen feeding if plants are floppy and overgrown.

Premature dieback Premature dieback covers a range of end-of-season behaviors. Annual herbs (basil, cilantro, dill) decline naturally as days shorten and temperatures cool — this is normal once flowering has happened.
Moderate Physiological Sep–Nov Peak window months: Sep, Oct, Nov.

Premature dieback covers a range of end-of-season behaviors. Annual herbs (basil, cilantro, dill) decline naturally as days shorten and temperatures cool — this is normal once flowering has happened. Tender perennials in cold climates may die back to the ground when frost arrives. But premature dieback before its time can signal: cold snap below the plant's tolerance, root disease (Fusarium, Verticillium, Pythium), pest pressure (root-feeding larvae), or simply the plant having reached the natural end of its cycle. Annual basil typically dies after first frost; if basil dies in mid-summer, that's a sign to investigate. Tender perennial herbs in zone 5-6 die back annually and regrow from roots — that's normal. Distinguishing 'natural cycle complete' from 'plant has a problem' is about timing and visible symptoms.

Triggers: Most herb dieback is natural end-of-season. Mid-season dieback usually indicates root disease, pest damage, or severe drought stress. Investigate visible signs before assuming normal cycle.

Risk fades when: Natural dieback of annual herbs at season end is expected. Mid-season dieback warrants investigation: dig up the plant, check roots for rot/galls, examine stems for borer damage.

Scale insects Multiple species. Soft scales: Coccidae (lecanium Parthenolecanium corni, cottony cushion Icerya purchasi). Armored scales: Diaspididae (San Jose Quadraspidiotus perniciosus, oystershell Lepidosaphes ulmi, euonymus Unaspis euonymi)
Moderate Pest May–Jun Peak window months: May, Jun.

Scales are immobile sap-sucking insects under protective waxy or hardened covers. Soft scales produce sticky honeydew that supports sooty mold; armored scales cause direct dieback. They are primarily pests of woody plants and perennial herbs — fruit trees, berries, citrus, bay, rosemary — rather than annual vegetables. Females are sedentary as adults; the mobile 'crawler' stage that hatches in late spring/early summer is the target for control.

Triggers: Most species: one generation/year in north; multiple in south. Lecanium overwinters as 2nd-instar nymphs on twigs; crawlers emerge June-July. San Jose scale overwinters as 2nd instar on bark; crawlers May-June. Stressed plants more susceptible; ant attendance protects scales by deterring parasitic wasps.

Risk fades when: The vulnerable stage is the mobile crawler, which appears in a narrow late-spring to early-summer window depending on species; once crawlers settle and form their protective covering, sprays are far less effective, so the treatable risk window closes after crawler emergence (Penn State Extension, UMN Extension).

Scale insects symptoms
Scale insects clustered on a stem (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Gilles San Martin · CC BY-SA 2.0
Slugs and snails Cornu aspersum (brown garden snail), Deroceras reticulatum (gray garden slug), Limax maximus, Arion spp.
Moderate Pest Apr, May, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Apr, May, Sep, Oct.

Slugs and snails are nocturnal mollusks that chew irregular holes in leaves and clip off succulent seedlings. They leave characteristic silvery slime trails. Hermaphroditic and prolific, brown garden snails lay around 80 eggs per month for up to six clutches per year.

Triggers: Active at night and early morning in damp conditions. Coastal CA and southeast — active year-round. Spring rains and dense ground cover (mulch, debris, weeds) create harborage.

Risk fades when: Hot, dry summer weather drives slugs and snails into inactivity, so risk drops sharply once conditions turn warm and dry; populations are highest in cool, wet spring and fall, and in mild-winter coastal regions they can stay active year-round (UMN Extension, Penn State, UC IPM).

Slugs and snails symptoms
Gray garden slug (Deroceras reticulatum) on foliage (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: AfroBrazilian · CC BY-SA 3.0
Spider mites Tetranychus urticae (two-spotted spider mite, most common); also broad mite (Polyphagotarsonemus latus), russet mite (Eriophyidae)
Moderate Pest Jul–Aug Peak window months: Jul, Aug.

Spider mites are tiny arachnids (1/50 inch) that feed on the undersides of leaves, producing characteristic silver-yellow stippling. Heavy populations produce visible webbing that interferes with pesticide coverage. They thrive in hot dry weather and drought-stressed plants. The two-spotted spider mite feeds on more than 180 cultivated plant species.

Triggers: Hot dry conditions; >90°F lifecycle <2 weeks. Drought stress amplifies. Broad-spectrum sprays (carbaryl, pyrethroids) trigger outbreaks by killing predators. Wisconsin Ext: 'as little as a month without significant rain during the growing season can favor a mite outbreak.'

Risk fades when: Populations build in hot, dry weather and then crash in late summer and fall as predatory mites catch up, host foliage declines, and cooler, wetter weather and rain set in, so risk fades once the heat and drought break (UC IPM, Colorado State Extension).

Spider mites symptoms
Spider mite (Tetranychidae) infestation with webbing on a young lemon plant (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Paramecium · CC BY-SA 3.0
Thrips Frankliniella occidentalis (western flower thrips), F. tritici (eastern flower thrips), F. fusca (tobacco thrips), Thrips tabaci (onion thrips)
Moderate Pest Mar–May Peak window months: Mar, Apr, May.

Thrips are tiny (1/16 inch) slender insects with fringed wings that puncture and rasp leaf surfaces, leaving silver stippling with black frass dots. The biggest concern is virus vectoring: western flower thrips is the principal vector of tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV) and impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV), which affect more than 600 plant species. Greenhouse and high tunnel infestations can be devastating.

Triggers: Hot dry weather; greenhouse/high tunnel environments. Female lays eggs inside leaf tissue. 2 larval stages feed; 2 non-feeding pupal stages in soil/litter. Lifecycle 10-21 days. Many overlapping generations. Bridge crops (spring wheat, peach, strawberry per NC State) build populations before vegetable hosts available.

Risk fades when: Infestations are worst in hot, dry weather; cool conditions slow development and heavy rain or overhead irrigation knocks populations down sharply, so risk fades as the weather turns cool and wet and rebuilds the following spring (UK Entomology, Cornell IPM).

Thrips symptoms
Thrips feeding injury on pole bean leaves — silvery stippling with dark fecal specks — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Leafminers Liriomyza sativae, Liriomyza trifolii, Pegomya hyoscyami (spinach), Phytomyza gymnostoma (allium)
Low Pest May–Jul Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul.

Leafminers are tiny fly larvae that feed between the upper and lower surfaces of leaves, creating winding pale tunnels or blotchy patches. They rarely kill plants but can ruin the marketability of leafy greens grown for foliage. Allium leafminer is an emerging pest in the eastern US (first detected in Pennsylvania in 2017) that damages onions, garlic, leeks, and chives.

Triggers: Liriomyza trifolii: 1 generation in ~1 month at typical greenhouse temps, 14 days at 95°F, 64 days at 59°F (UC IPM). Adults active mid-day. Allium leafminer emerges late March-early April, second flight September-October. Broad-spectrum insecticides trigger outbreaks by killing parasitoids.

Risk fades when: Parasitic wasps usually bring populations down as the season progresses unless broad-spectrum sprays disrupt them; damage peaks in warm spring and summer flushes and eases in cooler weather, so risk fades with natural-enemy buildup and falling temperatures (USU Extension, PNW Pest Handbook, UC IPM).

Leafminers symptoms
Leafminer serpentine mines on a cucurbit leaf — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Legginess and lax growth Shade-avoidance response; excess-nitrogen vegetative growth
Low Physiological Apr–Aug Peak window months: Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

Tall, soft, floppy stems with long gaps between the leaves and disappointingly few flowers have two possible causes, and telling them apart takes one look at leaf colour. The first is shade. Plants detect being shaded not by darkness but by the ratio of red to far-red light reflecting off their neighbours, sensed through the phytochrome PHYB. When shade signals intensify, the plant mounts a shade-avoidance response - it pours resources into stem elongation to climb out of the shade, and peer-reviewed work shows this excessive stem growth comes directly at the expense of leaf growth and yield. Stretched stems never re-compact once formed. The second cause is nitrogen. Wisconsin Extension notes that overly fertile soil promotes foliar growth over flower production, and UMN says the same of nasturtiums: too much nitrogen encourages leafy growth at the expense of flowers. The distinction matters because the remedies are opposite. Pale, yellow-green leaves with wide internodes mean too little light - move the plant. Dark, glossy green leaves on floppy stems with no flowers mean too much nitrogen - stop feeding it.

Triggers: Shade avoidance: plants sense shading through the ratio of red to far-red light, mediated by phytochromes, especially PHYB. Peer-reviewed work reports that as shade signals - far-red light and low light intensity - intensify, plants exhibit excessive stem growth, leading to a reduction in leaf growth and ultimately reduced yield. Elongated internodes are permanent; the stems do not re-compact when light improves, though subsequent growth is normal. Nitrogen: Wisconsin Horticulture (UW-Madison Extension) advises not to fertilise heavily, as overly fertile soil promotes foliar growth over flower production. UMN Extension makes the same point for nasturtiums - too much nitrogen encourages leafy growth at the expense of flower production. PNW Handbook notes that for Mediterranean subshrubs such as rosemary, overwatering and too much fertility both inhibit good growth. NOTE ON EVIDENCE: the shade-avoidance mechanism is drawn from peer-reviewed plant physiology rather than an extension factsheet on these specific ornamentals; the nitrogen half is directly extension-sourced. Both converge on the same visible symptom, which is why leaf colour is the diagnostic.

On Summer Savory: Plants become stemmy after extended flowering

Prevention: Harvest before full bloom and re-sow if needed

Risk fades when: Stems that have already stretched will not shorten - elongated internodes are permanent. Fix the cause and work with the new growth. Diagnose by leaf colour first: pale, yellow-green foliage with long gaps between leaves means insufficient light, so move the plant or thin its neighbours. Dark, glossy green foliage on floppy stems with few flowers means excess nitrogen, so stop feeding entirely; most of these plants want lean soil. Pinch growing tips early in the season to force branching, before legginess sets in - it is far more effective than staking afterwards. Cut leggy stems back to a healthy node and let the plant rebuild. Space plants properly, since crowding produces the same far-red shade signal as overhead shade does.

Self seeding Self-seeding (or volunteer reseeding) happens when a plant is allowed to flower, set seed, and drop those seeds in the garden.
Low Physiological Jul–Oct Peak window months: Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct.

Self-seeding (or volunteer reseeding) happens when a plant is allowed to flower, set seed, and drop those seeds in the garden. Many cool-season crops like cilantro, dill, fennel, arugula, lettuce, and many flowers (calendula, cosmos, sunflower, poppy, nigella) reseed reliably year after year — often more reliably than deliberate sowing. Hybrid varieties typically don't reseed true-to-type — the seedlings may show traits of the parent lines rather than the labeled hybrid. Open-pollinated and heirloom varieties reseed faithfully. If you don't want volunteers, remove flower heads before seed sets. If you want them, leave seed heads on through fall and they'll sprout when conditions are right next season.

Triggers: Self-seeding follows any time a plant flowers, sets seed, and is left in place long enough for seed to mature and drop. Open-pollinated varieties reseed true; hybrid varieties may not.

Risk fades when: Self-seeding isn't a problem per se — it's the plant doing what plants do. Manage by deciding whether you want volunteers next season.

3 more issues below · Show all 13 ↓
Feeding & picking

Nutrition & Harvest

How hungry the plant is, what ripe harvest looks like, and how long the crop keeps after picking.

Feeding
Nutrition
Feeding intensityLight feeder
RecipesWorm Castings Topdress, Compost Tea
Timing
Harvest

Stems are leafy, aromatic, and still soft, ideally just before or at first bloom.

Expected yield0.1–0.4 lbs/plant
Storage5 days — Use fresh or hang small bundles to dry promptly.
Plant relationships

Companion Planting

Helpful neighbors can support growth or deter pests. Keep antagonistic plants separated to reduce stress and competition.

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What you'll need

Growing Supplies

Hand-picked for your Summer Savory, with the extension research behind every recommendation.

Seed starting tray + heat mat

For gardeners who start seeds indoors, this combo improves even germination. Warm-season crops benefit from bottom heat. Look for a rigid tray, cell inserts with drainage, and a heat mat paired with a thermostat.

Source: Utah State University Extension; Iowa State University Extension; Mississippi State University Extension

Our pick

Seedling Heat Mat + Thermostat Combo

Same trusted mat with a digital thermostat so you can dial in exact soil temperature. Peppers want 80-85°F, tomatoes 75-80°F.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Mulch / landscape fabric

Nearly every garden benefits from mulch for weed suppression, moisture conservation, and soil temperature moderation. For most home gardeners, quality organic mulch is the better buy over landscape fabric.

Source: Penn State Extension; Wisconsin Horticulture; Illinois Extension

Our pick

Cleaned Wheat Straw Mulch (3 cu ft, ~20 lbs)

Thoroughly cleaned wheat straw at 3 cubic feet, marketed specifically for vegetable gardens rather than animal bedding or decoration. Better per-pound economics than the 1 cu ft option, with the same extension-recommended material. Strong sales volume (2K+ bought past month) supports product consistency.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Drip irrigation / soaker hose kit

Every gardener benefits from putting water at the root zone instead of on the leaves, because drip and soaker systems reduce foliar disease pressure by limiting leaf wetness and soil splash. A quality kit should include a backflow preventer, filter, pressure reducer, and UV-resistant tubing.

Source: Iowa State University Extension; Colorado State University Extension; UMass Extension

Our pick

Complete Garden Drip Irrigation Kit

Designed for beginners with a step-by-step setup guide. Adjustable emitters, both tubing sizes, and all connectors included.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Row cover / frost blanket

Row cover adds frost protection, speeds early growth, and physically excludes insect pests without spraying. Look for spun-bonded fabric with a stated weight and frost rating, UV resistance, and enough width for hoops or low tunnels.

Source: University of Maryland Extension; University of New Hampshire Extension; Colorado State University Extension

Our pick

Frost Blanket (10'x30')

Thicker 1.2 oz fabric rated to protect down to 28°F. Covers 300 sq ft — enough for multiple raised beds in a single sheet.

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Research

Sources

Reference material and extension guidance used to build this growing guide.

seed_catalog Seeds Nowreference Herb Society / culinary herb referencesuniversity Penn State Extension
Internal links

Summer Savory Planting Dates by Zone

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