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Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan)
Photo: "Cải rổ" by Bùi Thụy Đào Nguyên · CC BY-SA 3.0

Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan)

Stem · Brassicaceae

Chinese broccoli (gai lan) is the fastest brassica, ready in 30 to 50 days from direct sowing. It does not form a head — you grow it for the thick, tender flowering stalks, broad leaves, and edible flower buds, and the entire above-ground plant is edible. After the main stalk is cut it keeps producing side shoots. The most temperature-flexible brassica, it is happiest at 50 to 75°F, so sow every 2 to 3 weeks for a steady supply. Unlike standard broccoli, a few open flowers are fine. Key facts for Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan): 30–50 days to maturity from direct sowing, 6+ hours of sun, 6–12" spacing. Container-friendly (minimum 2-gallon pot).

Updated October 8, 2026 · Backed by 10 cited sources
Overview

At a Glance

The essentials first: timing, light, spacing, seed-starting, container fit, and overall size.

Days to maturity
30–50 days
from direct sowing
Sun
6+ hours
Spacing
6–12"
between plants

Space Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) by type: baby at 4–6 inches and full size at 12 inches, with 18–24 inches between rows.

Container
Yes
2+ gallon pot
Planting windows
Spring, Fall and Winter
Season by season
Winter: Zones 9a-10b.
Most temperature-flexible brassica.
Planting window

Zone Planting Guide

Switch zones to see whether this plant is a strong fit, what frost timing looks like, and any extra notes worth planning around.

This card updates instantly with viability, frost timing, and any planting notes for your selected zone.

Care

Growing Guide

Everything in one place: seed starting, transplant timing, watering, soil, and structural support.

Seed starting
Germination
Time5–10 days
Optimal temperature75°F
Seed depth0.25–0.5"
Moisture
Watering
Weekly1–1.5"
NeedsModerate
Root zone
Soil
pH range6–7

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San Marzano Broccoli Raab Seeds

Survival Garden Seeds, 5 packets of heirloom San Marzano broccoli raab. Dark leafy greens with edible flower buds. Sautéed with garlic and chili in olive oil, piled onto orecchiette with sausage, blanched and folded into eggs, stir-fried with oyster sauce, or pickled stems for sandwiches.

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Pest prevention · paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.

When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.

Ultra-Fine Garden Insect Netting (4'x25')

Fine mesh blocks cabbage moths and flea beetles without chemicals. Lay over hoops at transplant time and leave on all season.

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Common questions

Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) FAQ

Every answer is assembled from this cultivar's own record, so the figures match the rest of the page.

How many days to maturity for Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan)?

Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) takes 30–50 days to reach maturity from direct sowing.

How far apart should you plant Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan)?

Space Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) 6–12 inches apart, with 18–24 inches between rows.

How much sun do Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) need?

Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) needs at least 6 hours of direct sun a day.

How much water do Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) need?

Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) needs 1–1.5 inches of water a week, counting rainfall.

What soil pH do Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) need?

Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) grows best in soil with a pH of 6–7.

How do you start Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) from seed?

Either works. Start seed indoors, or sow straight into the garden once the soil reaches 40°F.

What temperature do Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) seeds need to germinate?

Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) seeds germinate best at 75°F, within a workable range of 55–75°F, and take 5–10 days to emerge.

Can you grow Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) in containers?

Yes, Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) grows well in containers. Use a pot of at least 2 gallons; 3 gallons is better.

When is Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) in season?

Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan) is a cool-season crop, in season during spring and fall in most regions. Plants reach harvest 30–50 days after direct sowing and prefer temperatures below 75°F.

Resilience

Plant Health

Stress tolerance, resistance notes, and the most common problems to watch for as plants mature.

Tolerance
Heat: Low Cold: Semi-hardy

Watch for these first

Sort
Issue Severity Category Peak window
Black leg (brassica) Leptosphaeria maculans (Phoma lingam)
High Disease Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct.

A soilborne and seedborne fungus that rots the stem near the soil line and produces sunken cankers dotted with tiny dark fruiting bodies. Leaves yellow, plants are stunted, and badly affected plants topple or fail to grow. It is most damaging in cool, moist soil, and secondary rots like white mold and soft rot often follow.

Triggers: Most important in cool, moist soil. Spreads on infected seed and in crop debris; spores splash to stems in wet weather. Tiny dark fruiting bodies (pycnidia) in the stem cankers are diagnostic.

What it looks like: Long, sunken, brown cankers on cabbage-family stems near the soil line, dotted with tiny dark specks that can ooze pink spore masses. Cankers can girdle the stem, stunting and wilting the plant, and the stem may snap so the plant falls over. Leaves can show round light tan spots with the same dark specks, and a cut stem shows black streaks inside.

Disease or overwatering? Look at the stem at soil level. A sunken brown canker dotted with tiny dark specks marks black leg. A cabbage-family plant yellowing or wilting from soggy soil has a clean, firm stem with no canker.

Will it recover? A girdled stem will not recover, and seedlings infected early may die. The fungus comes in on seed and lives in undecomposed debris, spreading by splashing water in cool, moist weather. Next time, buy disease-tested seed, pull mustard-family weeds and volunteers, work debris under so it breaks down, and keep cabbage-family crops out of that bed for 1 to 2 years.

Risk fades when: Drier conditions slow splash spread. Four dry days reduces active risk; stem cankers remain.

Source for the signs above: UC IPM Pest Management Guidelines: Cole Crops, Black Leg

Black rot Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris
High Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

A brassica-specific bacterial disease causing yellow V-shaped lesions that start at the leaf margins, blackened veins, and gradual whole-plant decline. Affects brassicas only (including brassica-family root crops via specific overrides). Despite the name, it's unrelated to grape or kiwi black rot.

Triggers: Warm wet weather, dew collecting at leaf margins, splashing water, and infected seed or transplants all favor bacterial spread.

What it looks like: Yellow V-shaped patches starting at the leaf edge, the point of the V aiming toward the leaf stem, with the veins inside turning black. A cut stem can show a black ring inside.

Disease or overwatering? Black veins inside a yellow V point to black rot, and that is also how to tell it from Fusarium yellows. Even wilting after soggy soil, with no V shapes or black veins, points to too much water.

Will it recover? Infected leaves don't recover. Remove infected plants; the bacteria spread by splashing water, tools and insects. Next time, use certified disease-free seed and keep cabbage-family crops out of that bed for 3 years.

Risk fades when: Moisture drives new infection. Dry weather reduces new pressure, though existing infections and soil inoculum persist.

Source for the signs above: University of Illinois Extension, Black Rot of Cole Crops

Black rot symptoms
Black rot on cabbage showing V-shaped lesions at leaf margins — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Blindness Apical meristem damage
High Physiological Apr–May Peak window months: Apr, May.

Blindness in brassicas is when the central growing point (apical meristem) is damaged before head formation, so the plant grows vegetatively but never produces the central head you planted it for. Causes include: severe cold injury below 25°F killing the meristem, cabbage looper or cabbage worm feeding directly on the growing tip, mechanical damage during transplanting, or boron deficiency in extreme cases. The plant otherwise looks healthy — full leaves, vigorous growth — but no head forms. Some plants compensate by producing side shoots from leaf axils (lateral broccoli florets) which can be harvested. Prevention: protect from extreme cold during early growth, control cabbage worms, handle transplants carefully.

Triggers: Meristem damage from cold, pest feeding, mechanical injury, or severe boron deficiency. Plant continues vegetative growth but skips head formation entirely.

Risk fades when: Blind plants won't produce a central head. Sometimes side-shoot florets develop from leaf axils — harvest those. Otherwise the plant is a loss for head production. Compost and replant for fall harvest.

Bolting (brassicas) Vernalization-induced bolting
High Physiological May–Jul Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul.

Brassicas are biennial plants from the Mediterranean — they expect a winter cool period to trigger flowering. When spring transplants experience temperatures below 50°F for 2-8 weeks during early growth, they're 'vernalized' (cold-primed to flower). When warm summer days arrive, the plant skips its head-formation stage and shoots up a flower stalk. Different brassicas need different vernalization periods: long-maturing cabbage needs up to 20 weeks of cold to flower; early Chinese cabbage and cauliflower need as little as 1 week. Plants only respond to cold once they've reached 2-15 true leaves — that's why broccoli set out too early (too small) or too cold often bolts.

Triggers: Per MSU/UMN/UDel Extension: cold exposure below 50°F for 2-8 weeks during 2-15 leaf stage triggers vernalization. Warming to >61°F devernalizes some species (cabbage, Chinese cabbage, kohlrabi) but not others. Distinguish from 'buttoning' (premature small head from too-early cold) which occurs in undersized plants. Bolting hits mature plants AFTER vernalization, driven by heat/stress.

On Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan): Heat or water stress can push buds open before stems reach ideal harvest size.

Prevention: Grow in cool windows and harvest before flowers open.

Risk fades when: Once vernalized + stressed, brassicas commit to flowering. The current crop is done. Fall plantings (mid-summer sowing, late-summer transplant) rarely bolt because they vegetatively grow in declining day length and harvest before next year's vernalization.

Buttoning Premature vernalization-induced head formation
High Physiological Apr–May Peak window months: Apr, May.

Buttoning is the opposite mistake from bolting — instead of skipping head formation entirely (bolting), the plant forms a tiny premature head before it has enough leafy biomass to support normal growth. It happens in broccoli and cauliflower when undersized plants (under 2-4 leaves) experience prolonged cold below 50°F. The plant interprets the cold as 'winter complete' and shifts to reproductive mode prematurely. Result: a button-sized head on a small plant that won't size up regardless of subsequent care. Most common in early-spring transplants set out before nights stay above 50°F. Bolting hits mature plants AFTER vernalization; buttoning hits young plants DURING vernalization. Wait to transplant until nights are reliably above 50°F, or use row cover for cool nights early in the season.

Triggers: Per MSU/UMN Extension: cold exposure below 50°F on plants with fewer than 4 true leaves triggers premature head formation. Distinguish from bolting which hits mature plants AFTER vernalization.

Risk fades when: Buttoned plants won't size up. Pull and replant with appropriate timing. The current planting is a loss.

Clubroot Plasmodiophora brassicae
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A brassica-specific soil-borne disease that forms swollen, distorted roots and causes plants to stunt or wilt during the heat of the day. Infects brassicas only (including brassica-family root crops via specific overrides) — it won't affect carrots, beets, or other non-brassica root vegetables.

Triggers: Moist, acidic soils plus water movement favor the swimming zoospores that infect roots. The pathogen persists in soil for years once established.

What it looks like: Plants wilt on ordinary days but perk up at night, older leaves yellow, and growth is stunted. Dug-up roots are swollen into club shapes with few fine roots.

Disease or overwatering? Swollen, club-shaped roots confirm clubroot. A plant that wilts after soggy soil but has normal roots is water-stressed.

Will it recover? Clubbed roots never recover. Remove infected plants, roots and all. It survives in soil for over 10 years and favors acid soil, so liming toward neutral helps.

Risk fades when: Moisture drives new infection. Dry weather reduces immediate pressure, though existing infections and soil inoculum persist for the long term.

Source for the signs above: Missouri Botanical Garden, Clubroot of Crucifers

Clubroot symptoms
Plasmodiophora brassicae on cauliflower roots (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Rasbak · CC BY-SA 3.0
Corn earworm / tomato fruitworm (yes, chinese broccoli (gai lan) gets these too) Helicoverpa zea (= tomato fruitworm = cotton bollworm = soybean podworm)
High Pest Jul–Sep Peak window months: Jul, Aug, Sep.

Corn earworm is the same species as tomato fruitworm and cotton bollworm — a polyphagous caterpillar that bores into ears of corn through fresh silks, into tomato and pepper fruit, into lettuce heads, and into bean and pea pods. In sweet corn, losses can reach 50%. The species migrates north annually from southern overwintering grounds; in much of the northern US, it does not survive the winter when temperatures drop below 30°F.

Where it lives: Across the US except Alaska; moths fly north from the South each summer

Triggers: Overwinters as pupa in top 2-4 inches of soil where winter temps permit. North of I-70 (Illinois IPM): does not reliably overwinter — populations arrive via migration mid-July through September. Females prefer fresh corn silks for egg-laying; older silks rejected.

Risk fades when: In the North (above roughly 40 degrees latitude) the insect does not overwinter, so populations arrive only by summer migration and are wiped out by fall frost, resetting each year; in the South it overwinters as a soil pupa and pressure lasts longer (UMN VegEdge, Wisconsin Hort, Cornell IPM).

Corn earworm / tomato fruitworm symptoms
Corn earworm (Helicoverpa zea) larvae in a damaged ear of corn — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Damping off Pythium spp. / Rhizoctonia solani / Fusarium spp.
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A seedling killer caused by several different fungi working together. It hits vegetables, flowers, herbs, microgreens, and cover-crop seedlings the same way — seeds rot before they emerge, or young seedlings collapse right at the soil line. Wet seed-starting mix and poor airflow in seedling trays are the classic conditions.

Triggers: Wet soil or starting mix, poor drainage, seedlings packed too tightly, contaminated trays or media, and stagnant air all favor damping-off.

Risk fades when: Drying the soil surface and improving airflow slows new spread. Collapsed seedlings don't recover, but the rest of the tray can be saved.

Damping off symptoms
Damping off of coffee seedlings caused by Fusarium sp. — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Harlequin bug Murgantia histrionica
High Pest Mar–Oct Peak window months: Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct.

The harlequin bug is a bright red-and-black or orange-and-black stink bug, about 3/8 inch long, and a major pest of cabbage-family crops, especially in the southern United States. Adults and nymphs suck sap from leaves and stems, leaving white or yellow blotches. Heavy feeding makes plants wilt, turn brown and die, and can wipe out a whole planting of cabbage or collards. Adults spend the winter in old crop debris and weeds, come out in early spring, and lay clusters of white, black-banded, barrel-shaped eggs under the leaves. There are usually two or three generations a year, and damage builds through summer and fall.

Where it lives: Southern states coast to coast, north to Pennsylvania, Kansas and Colorado

Triggers: Fastest development at 84.2 to 89.6 F. Adults spend the winter in crop debris and weeds and become active in early spring as it warms (March or April in California). About 2 weeks after coming out, females start laying eggs under the leaves in double rows, about 12 to a cluster. Eggs hatch in 3 to 5 days in summer but can take 15 to 20 days in cool spring weather. Egg to adult takes about 30 to 50 days, and a full generation 50 to 80 days. Two or three generations a year in most areas, two to four in North Carolina, and a fourth is possible in south Texas. Where winters are warm and host plants are available, all stages can be found through the winter, and mild winters lead to bigger outbreaks.

Risk fades when: Adults become active in March or April in California and in early spring elsewhere, and females start laying eggs about 2 weeks later. By summer, numbers are high enough to be a serious pest, and late summer damage is common. New cabbage-family plantings can be hit hard in spring but more often in the fall. Fall and early spring are the best times to kill the bugs, while it is cold and host plants are scarce. In warm-winter areas all stages can be found through the winter (UC IPM; NC State Extension; NMSU H-259; University of Delaware Weekly Crop Update; Wallingford et al. 2011).

Imported cabbageworm Pieris rapae
High Pest Jun–Sep Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

The imported cabbageworm is the most important caterpillar pest of brassicas in much of the United States. Adults are the familiar small white butterflies with one or two black spots on each forewing, conspicuous as they flutter low over cabbage and broccoli plants on warm days. The velvety green caterpillars blend into foliage and do their damage hidden among inner leaves, often boring into developing heads.

Where it lives: Across the US

Triggers: Adults active during daytime in warm weather. Female lays 400-1000 single eggs over 5-20 day adult life. 2-4 generations in north, 6-8 in south. Eggs hatch in 4-10 days; larvae through 5 instars in 10-14 days.

On Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan): Caterpillars chew tender leaves and stems.

Prevention: Use row cover early and scout new growth.

Risk fades when: Multiple generations feed through fall until a hard frost; the insect overwinters as a chrysalis in garden debris, so activity ends with freezing weather and fall cleanup of crop residue reduces next year's population (Wisconsin Hort, UMD Extension).

Imported cabbageworm symptoms
Face of a cabbage worm (Pieris rapae) on cauliflower (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: photochem_PA · CC BY 2.0
Root maggot complex Delia spp. complex: D. radicum (cabbage maggot), D. platura (seedcorn maggot), D. florilega, D. planipalpis
High Pest May, Jun, Aug, Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Aug, Sep.

The Delia root-maggot complex includes the cabbage maggot (D. radicum) on brassicas and root crops, the seedcorn maggot (D. platura) on bean/pea/corn seedlings, and several other species. Larvae tunnel into roots, basal stems, and seeds, killing seedlings outright or creating tunnels that ruin root crops for market. A 2021 Oregon industry survey found 100% of root crop growers reported cabbage maggot damage; 44% with 10-25% yield loss.

Where it lives: Throughout the United States, including Alaska and Hawaii

Triggers: Overwinter as pupae in soil/crop residue. Adults emerge early spring (300-600 GDD base 40°F after Jan 1 in PNW). Cool moist soils favor egg survival; soil >95°F in top 2-3 inches kills eggs. Multiple generations per year. Seedcorn maggot attracted to decaying organic matter — high risk after fresh-incorporated cover crop.

Risk fades when: Cool, wet weather favors root maggots and damage is worst in early spring, dropping to its lowest in midsummer when soil temperatures above about 95 F kill the eggs; a late-summer flight can still injure fall root crops, so risk returns as weather cools (UMaine Extension, Wisconsin Hort, UNH Extension).

Root maggot complex symptoms
Cabbage root maggot (Delia radicum) larva on a brassica root (cropped, resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Rasbak · CC BY-SA 3.0
White mold / Sclerotinia (brassica) Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, Sclerotinia minor
High Disease Jul–Sep Peak window months: Jul, Aug, Sep.

A watery soft rot of stems, lower leaves, and heads. Infected tissue turns into a soft, watery decay, plants wilt and collapse, and dense white cottony growth with hard black resting bodies forms on and inside the stems. It is favored by cool, moist conditions and wet soil, and the resting bodies survive in soil for years.

Triggers: S. minor infects stems and leaves touching the soil; S. sclerotiorum also forms small mushroom-like apothecia that release airborne spores infecting upper leaves and flowers. Wet conditions and dense canopies raise risk; sclerotia persist in soil for years.

What it looks like: On cabbage-family crops, water-soaked brown patches on stems or leaves near the soil quickly turn to a soft, watery rot, and the plant wilts and collapses. Heavy white mold and small, hard, black resting bodies form on the outside and inside of the stems. Airborne spores can also rot upper leaves and flowers.

Disease or overwatering? Split a collapsed cabbage-family stem. White mold with hard black bodies on or inside it points to white mold (Sclerotinia). A plant wilting from soggy soil has a firm stem with no mold and no black bodies.

Will it recover? Rotted cabbage-family plants wilt and collapse and will not recover, and the black resting bodies keep the disease in the soil for years. Next time, avoid wet soil, rotate, and turn the soil deeply; that helps against the soil-borne form but not against spores blown in from nearby plantings.

Risk fades when: Drying conditions slow new infection. Five dry days exits the active window; established rot does not reverse and sclerotia persist in soil.

Source for the signs above: UC IPM Pest Management Guidelines: Cole Crops, Sclerotinia Diseases

Alternaria leaf spot Alternaria brassicicola / A. brassicae / A. raphani
Moderate Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A brassica-specific Alternaria disease that causes dark target-like spots on the leaves and rot in the heads of cabbage-family crops. It infects brassicas only (including brassica-family root crops like turnips and radishes via specific overrides) — it won't show up on carrots or beets.

Triggers: Cool to warm wet conditions, wind, rain, and infected seed or plant debris all favor spread and infection.

What it looks like: Pin-sized black specks that grow into round spots with rings, like a target, and a yellow halo. Shows first on older, lower leaves; spots can tear. Can also brown broccoli heads and cauliflower curds.

Disease or overwatering? Target-like rings point to Alternaria. Even yellowing or wilting after soggy soil, with no spots, points to too much water.

Will it recover? Spotted leaves don't heal. Remove badly spotted lower leaves and clear plant debris after harvest. The fungus also travels on seed and cabbage-family weeds.

Risk fades when: Moisture drives new infection and spread. Dry weather reduces new pressure, though existing infections and inoculum in the soil persist.

Source for the signs above: Cornell Vegetables, Alternaria Leaf Spot of Brassicas

Alternaria leaf spot symptoms
Alternaria brassicicola on Chinese kale (Brassica alboglabra) — target-ring leaf lesions (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Seemadua, S., Department of Agriculture, Thailand / PaDIL · CC BY 3.0 AU
Aphids Multiple genera: Myzus persicae (green peach aphid), Aphis gossypii (melon aphid), Macrosiphum euphorbiae (potato aphid), Brevicoryne brassicae (cabbage aphid)
Moderate Pest May, Jun, Sep, Oct Peak window months: May, Jun, Sep, Oct.

Aphids are soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on tender new growth. Most established plants tolerate moderate populations and will outgrow damage on their own, but aphids are the most important plant virus vectors in the garden, transmitting more than 100 plant viruses including potato leafroll, cucumber mosaic, and turnip mosaic. Honeydew excreted while feeding supports sooty mold growth and attracts ants that protect aphids from natural enemies.

Where it lives: Throughout the United States

Triggers: Optimal development at ~75°F (green peach aphid) per UC IPM Floriculture; melon aphid develops fastest above 75°F. Many species heat-intolerant above 90°F and crash in mid-summer. Soft new growth and over-fertilization with high N favor population buildup. Females give live birth parthenogenetically most of growing season — one generation in ~1 week under optimal conditions.

Risk fades when: Per UC IPM and Clemson HGIC, populations crash in mid-summer heat (>90°F) for many species, return in cooler conditions

Aphids symptoms
Aphis pomi (green apple aphid) colony on crab apple stem (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: InfluentialPoints · CC BY 3.0
Downy mildew (brassica) Hyaloperonospora parasitica
Moderate Disease Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct.

A cool-weather foliar disease most damaging on seedlings and young plants. It shows as faint yellow spots on the upper leaf surface with a white to gray fuzzy growth on the underside. On heads and curds it can cause dark speckling that downgrades quality. It is driven by cool temperatures, leaf wetness, and high humidity.

Triggers: Favored by cool temperatures and prolonged leaf wetness or high humidity. Most serious on seedlings, where it can kill young plants; on older plants it spots leaves and can speckle heads.

What it looks like: Irregular yellow patches on cabbage-family leaves that later turn tan to light brown, with white fluffy growth on the leaf undersides when the weather suits it. Heavily hit leaves look blighted, and in broccoli and cauliflower it can leave black streaks and patches inside stems and floret branches.

Disease or overwatering? On cabbage-family plants, yellow patches with white fluffy growth underneath point to downy mildew. A seedling pale and limp from soggy soil has no patches and nothing growing underneath. On young transplants the first spots can look like bacterial leaf spot, so check the underside for the white growth.

Will it recover? Spotted leaves do not recover, and seedlings with badly infected seed leaves and first true leaves may die. It needs cool, moist weather and carries over on weeds and in crop residue, so clear both. Next time, choose a resistant broccoli variety where one is offered.

Risk fades when: Warm, dry weather suppresses it. Three dry days with highs above 75°F exits the active window; spotted leaves stay damaged.

Source for the signs above: UC IPM Pest Management Guidelines: Cole Crops, Downy Mildew

Flea beetles Phyllotreta cruciferae (crucifer), Epitrix spp. (potato/tuber/eggplant), Phyllotreta striolata (striped)
Moderate Pest May–Jun Peak window months: May, Jun.

Flea beetles are small (1/16-inch) shiny beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed. They chew small round 'shothole' or 'pinhole' damage in leaves and can destroy emerging cotyledons of broccoli or eggplant in 24 hours. Most species are host-family specific — crucifer flea beetle on brassicas, tuber flea beetle on potatoes, eggplant flea beetle on solanaceous crops.

Where it lives: Across the US

Triggers: Overwinter as adults in leaf litter and field margins. Active at mid- to late-spring temperatures. Warm winter → higher next-spring populations (NC State). Hot dry conditions amplify damage on stressed seedlings.

On Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan): Small beetles chew shot holes in young leaves.

Prevention: Use row cover at planting and keep seedlings growing quickly.

Risk fades when: UMN: 1-2 generations in Minnesota, populations crash after mid-June

Flea beetles symptoms
Crucifer flea beetle (Phyllotreta cruciferae) (cropped, resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: AfroBrazilian · CC BY-SA 4.0
Fusarium yellows (cabbage) Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. conglutinans
Moderate Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

A warm-soil wilt that turns leaves a dull yellow-green, often more on one side of the plant, with downward curling and leaf drop from the bottom up. Cutting the stem shows brown discoloration of the water-conducting tissue. Unlike most brassica diseases it is favored by warm soil, and the fungus persists in soil for years.

Triggers: Favored by warm soil (roughly 80-90°F). The fungus enters through the roots and clogs the water-conducting tissue, causing one-sided yellowing and wilt. It survives in soil for many years; resistant cabbage varieties are the main defense.

What it looks like: Mostly a cabbage disease. Lower leaves yellow, often on one side of the plant, then turn brown and drop. A cut stem shows brown discoloration in the water-conducting tissue, and in time the whole plant may yellow, wilt and collapse.

Disease or overwatering? Cut the cabbage stem. Brown discoloration inside the water-conducting tissue, with yellowing heavier on one side, points to Fusarium yellows. A cabbage drooping from soggy soil yellows evenly and is clean inside. It is worst in warm soil, 75 to 85°F, and barely develops below 60 F.

Will it recover? Yellowed, wilted cabbage will not recover, and the fungus survives in soil indefinitely, so do not move soil or plant debris from that bed. Next time, grow a resistant cabbage variety and plant in spring or winter, when soil is cooler; resistance weakens as soil warms.

Risk fades when: Activity slows as soils cool below about 75°F. Seasonal pressure fades, but the fungus persists in the soil for many years.

Source for the signs above: UC IPM Pest Management Guidelines: Cole Crops, Fusarium Yellows

Hollow stem Boron deficiency or rapid-growth hollowing
Moderate Physiological Jun–Jul Peak window months: Jun, Jul.

Hollow stem is what it sounds like — the main stem of broccoli or cauliflower develops a cavity, usually visible when you cut the head off. There are two distinct causes that look slightly different inside. Boron deficiency hollow has watery tissue that browns or blackens over time, with visible brown patches in the stem wall. Rapid-growth hollow (from excess nitrogen, hot weather, or wide spacing) has clean bright tissue inside the cavity — no browning. Boron deficiency is most common in sandy soils with low organic matter where boron leaches out easily, or in high-pH soils where boron is locked up. Excess nitrogen pushes the plant to grow faster than the central stem can keep up, leaving the cavity. Wider plant spacing (16+ inches) increases the per-plant nutrients available, which accelerates growth and increases hollow risk. The fix is the opposite: close spacing (10-12 inches), moderate nitrogen (no more than 3.5 lb N per 1000 sq ft), and a soil test for boron levels. If the test shows low boron, side-dress with a small amount — but be cautious because boron toxicity is just as serious as deficiency.

Triggers: Per MSU/UDel/WSU/UMN Extension: dual cause. Boron deficiency hollow shows brown/black discolored tissue inside (visible in stem wall). Rapid-growth hollow shows clean bright tissue inside. Sandy low-OM soils, high pH (above 7), and excessive nitrogen + wide spacing (16+ inches) all contribute. Spacing 10-12 inches reduces incidence significantly.

Risk fades when: Hollow stem doesn't make broccoli inedible — cut around the cavity. For next planting: soil test for boron, narrow spacing to 10-12 inches, moderate nitrogen, maintain pH 6.0-6.8. If boron test shows below 1 ppm, side-dress carefully; boron toxicity is just as serious as deficiency.

Slugs and snails Cornu aspersum (brown garden snail), Deroceras reticulatum (gray garden slug), Limax maximus, Arion spp.
Moderate Pest Apr, May, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Apr, May, Sep, Oct.

Slugs and snails are nocturnal mollusks that chew irregular holes in leaves and clip off succulent seedlings. They leave characteristic silvery slime trails. Hermaphroditic and prolific, brown garden snails lay around 80 eggs per month for up to six clutches per year.

Where it lives: Across the US, including watered gardens in the desert Southwest

Triggers: Active at night and early morning in damp conditions. Coastal CA and southeast — active year-round. Spring rains and dense ground cover (mulch, debris, weeds) create harborage.

Risk fades when: Hot, dry summer weather drives slugs and snails into inactivity, so risk drops sharply once conditions turn warm and dry; populations are highest in cool, wet spring and fall, and in mild-winter coastal regions they can stay active year-round (UMN Extension, Penn State, UC IPM).

Slugs and snails symptoms
Gray garden slug (Deroceras reticulatum) on foliage (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: AfroBrazilian · CC BY-SA 3.0
Thrips Frankliniella occidentalis (western flower thrips), F. tritici (eastern flower thrips), F. fusca (tobacco thrips), Thrips tabaci (onion thrips)
Moderate Pest Mar–May Peak window months: Mar, Apr, May.

Thrips are tiny (1/16 inch) slender insects with fringed wings that puncture and rasp leaf surfaces, leaving silver stippling with black frass dots. The biggest concern is virus vectoring: western flower thrips is the principal vector of tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV) and impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV), which affect more than 600 plant species. Greenhouse and high tunnel infestations can be devastating.

Where it lives: Throughout the United States

Triggers: Hot dry weather; greenhouse/high tunnel environments. Female lays eggs inside leaf tissue. 2 larval stages feed; 2 non-feeding pupal stages in soil/litter. Lifecycle 10-21 days. Many overlapping generations. Bridge crops (spring wheat, peach, strawberry per NC State) build populations before vegetable hosts available.

Risk fades when: Infestations are worst in hot, dry weather; cool conditions slow development and heavy rain or overhead irrigation knocks populations down sharply, so risk fades as the weather turns cool and wet and rebuilds the following spring (UK Entomology, Cornell IPM).

Thrips symptoms
Thrips feeding injury on pole bean leaves — silvery stippling with dark fecal specks — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Wireworms Elateridae (click beetle larvae; several genera, including Conoderus, Melanotus and Limonius)
Moderate Pest Apr, May, Jun, Aug, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Apr, May, Jun, Aug, Sep, Oct.

Wireworms are the larvae of click beetles. They live in the soil, eating seeds, seedlings, roots and tubers, and they bore small holes and tunnels into potatoes and sweet potatoes that can make them unusable. For home-garden sweet potatoes, UGA Extension says wireworms and root-knot nematodes seem to be the biggest problems. Their main food is the roots of grasses, so the worst damage comes in gardens dug out of sod or lawn within the past few years. Some kinds take several years to grow up, so a problem bed can stay a problem for years. Severe outbreaks are rare, and once you see damage no spray will fix it: the steps that work are taken before planting.

Where it lives: Found across the US; different wireworm species are the main pests in different regions

Triggers: Larvae and adults spend the winter 9 to 24 inches deep in the soil. In spring, once the soil warms to about 50 F, larvae feed within the top 6 inches; when the soil gets too hot (above 80 F) or dry they go deeper, and as the soil cools in fall they may feed near the surface again. They like moist, cool, heavy soil. Female click beetles lay eggs in grassy, weedy areas, which is why ground that was sod or lawn has the most wireworms. How long one generation takes depends on the kind: from one to six years. The corn wireworm takes up to six years, so larvae of every size are in the soil at once. In the Southeast, the southern potato wireworm has one or two generations a year and the tobacco wireworm has one.

Risk fades when: Wireworms do most of their damage in early spring, when they are near the soil surface; in summer they move deeper, and as the soil cools they may feed near the surface again (NDSU Extension). They become active and look for food as soon as the soil warms in spring (UMass Extension). In the Southeast, wireworms usually attack potatoes and sweet potatoes late in the season (Clemson HGIC; NC State Extension). The month numbers are a reading of 'spring' and 'late season' for most of the US; spring comes earlier in the South and later in the North.

Leafminers Liriomyza sativae, Liriomyza trifolii, Pegomya hyoscyami (spinach), Phytomyza gymnostoma (allium)
Low Pest May–Jul Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul.

Leafminers are tiny fly larvae that feed between the upper and lower surfaces of leaves, creating winding pale tunnels or blotchy patches. They rarely kill plants but can ruin the marketability of leafy greens grown for foliage. Allium leafminer is an emerging pest in the eastern US (first detected in Pennsylvania in 2017) that damages onions, garlic, leeks, and chives.

Where it lives: Across the US; the allium leafminer only in the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic so far

Triggers: Liriomyza trifolii: 1 generation in ~1 month at typical greenhouse temps, 14 days at 95°F, 64 days at 59°F (UC IPM). Adults active mid-day. Allium leafminer emerges late March-early April, second flight September-October. Broad-spectrum insecticides trigger outbreaks by killing parasitoids.

Risk fades when: Parasitic wasps usually bring populations down as the season progresses unless broad-spectrum sprays disrupt them; damage peaks in warm spring and summer flushes and eases in cooler weather, so risk fades with natural-enemy buildup and falling temperatures (USU Extension, PNW Pest Handbook, UC IPM).

Leafminers symptoms
Leafminer serpentine mines on a cucurbit leaf — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
12 more issues below · Show all 22 ↓
Feeding & picking

Nutrition & Harvest

How hungry the plant is, what ripe harvest looks like, and how long the crop keeps after picking.

Feeding
Nutrition
Feeding intensityModerate feeder
Timing
Harvest

Pencil-thick stalk, buds formed but before flowers open. A few open flowers OK.

Storage5 days
Plant relationships

Companion Planting

Helpful neighbors can support growth or deter pests. Keep antagonistic plants separated to reduce stress and competition.

Good companions
Sweet Alyssum
Small flowers support predators and parasitoids used in aphid and caterpillar IPM around brassicas.
What it does4
Beneficial insects Research supported
Tiny flowers are well suited to hoverflies and other small beneficial insects; hoverfly larvae prey on aphids.
Iowa State Extension, pepper damage reduction; Eric Brennan USDA, 500-1000 transplants/acre complete aphid control in romaine via hoverflies
Living mulch Research supported
Low spreading growth covers bare soil, holds moisture and crowds out weeds, while the flowers feed the insects that eat aphids. USDA research in organic lettuce showed it can be grown between crop rows without costing yield.
Brennan 2013 (Biological Control 65:302-311); Brennan 2016; Bugg et al. 2008 (UC ANR 8285)
Trap crop
Sometimes planted to pull leaf miners off lettuce, chard and beet greens. What alyssum is actually known for is feeding aphid-eating insects, not trapping pests.
No evidence was found for alyssum diverting leaf miners. The extensively documented effect is hoverfly recruitment for aphid control, which is this plant's beneficial-insect-habitat function.
Pollinators
Honey-scented flowers attract bees, butterflies, flower flies.
Dill
Umbel flowers can support beneficial insects around brassica beds when allowed to bloom.
Cilantro Coriander Slow Bolt
Bolting flowers can support beneficial insects while occupying bed edges near brassicas.
Small-flowered insectary plants such as sweet alyssum, dill, and cilantro can support predators and parasitoids used in aphid and caterpillar IPM; avoid same-family brassica companions because they share clubroot and caterpillar pressure.
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What you'll need

Growing Supplies

Hand-picked for your Chinese Broccoli (Gai Lan), with the extension research behind every recommendation.

Cool-season brassica seed-starting tray

UMN Extension says gardeners should start cabbage indoors for a spring-planted summer crop because a late direct-seeded crop would mature during the hottest part of summer, reducing quality. Transplants get crops out of the ground and into early production. Note that brassicas are cool-season crops and germinate well at 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, so a heat mat is not necessary and can actually push germination too fast and produce weak seedlings. Use the cell tray and grow light, but skip the heat mat for brassica starts.

Source: UMN Extension

Our pick

Seedling Heat Mat + Thermostat Combo

Same trusted mat with a digital thermostat so you can dial in exact soil temperature. Peppers want 80-85°F, tomatoes 75-80°F.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Seed starting tray + heat mat

For crops started indoors before transplanting, this tray-and-mat combo improves germination consistency. Bottom heat speeds and evens germination; warm-season crops in particular want it, while cool-season transplants germinate fine at the lower end of the range. Look for a rigid tray, cell inserts with drainage, and a mat paired with a thermostat.

Source: Utah State University Extension; Iowa State University Extension; Mississippi State University Extension

Our pick

Seedling Heat Mat + Thermostat Combo

Same trusted mat with a digital thermostat so you can dial in exact soil temperature. Peppers want 80-85°F, tomatoes 75-80°F.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Mulch / landscape fabric

Nearly every garden benefits from mulch for weed suppression, moisture conservation, and soil temperature moderation. For most home gardeners, quality organic mulch is the better buy over landscape fabric.

Source: Penn State Extension; Wisconsin Horticulture; Illinois Extension

Our pick

Cleaned Wheat Straw Mulch (3 cu ft, ~20 lbs)

Thoroughly cleaned wheat straw at 3 cubic feet, marketed specifically for vegetable gardens rather than animal bedding or decoration. Better per-pound economics than the 1 cu ft option, with the same extension-recommended material. Strong sales volume (2K+ bought past month) supports product consistency.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Drip irrigation / soaker hose kit

Every gardener benefits from putting water at the root zone instead of on the leaves, because drip and soaker systems reduce foliar disease pressure by limiting leaf wetness and soil splash. A quality kit should include a backflow preventer, filter, pressure reducer, and UV-resistant tubing.

Source: Iowa State University Extension; Colorado State University Extension; UMass Extension

Our pick

Complete Garden Drip Irrigation Kit

Designed for beginners with a step-by-step setup guide. Adjustable emitters, both tubing sizes, and all connectors included.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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