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Napa Cabbage
Photo: "Napa Cabbage" by Jay & Melissa Malouin · CC BY-SA 2.0

Napa Cabbage

Head · Brassicaceae

Napa cabbage forms a tall, barrel-shaped head of pale, tender leaves. A different species from round cabbage (Brassica rapa rather than B. oleracea), it is extremely bolt-prone within a narrow comfortable band of about 50 to 80°F — it bolts from cold (below 50°F for over a week in young plants) and from heat (above 75 to 80°F). Fall planting is strongly preferred and spring planting is risky. It is less cold-hardy than round cabbage and stores for 1 to 2 months. Key facts: 70–90 days to maturity from transplant, 6+ hours of sun, 12–18" spacing. Container-friendly (minimum 5-gallon pot).

Updated June 1, 2026 · Backed by 10 cited sources
Overview

At a Glance

The essentials first: timing, light, spacing, seed-starting, container fit, and overall size.

Days to maturity
70–90 days
from transplant
Sun
6+ hours
Spacing
12–18"
between plants
Container
Yes
5+ gallon pot
Planting windows
Fall usually better
Spring and Fall
Season by season
Spring: Less reliable. Only with bolt-resistant varieties and stable spring weather.
Fall: Fall is clearly the better window; spring plantings bolt readily.
Planting window

Zone Planting Guide

Switch zones to see whether this plant is a strong fit, what frost timing looks like, and any extra notes worth planning around.

This card updates instantly with viability, frost timing, and any planting notes for your selected zone.

Care

Growing Guide

Everything in one place: seed starting, transplant timing, watering, soil, and structural support.

Seed starting
Germination
Time5–10 days
Optimal temperature75°F
Seed depth0.25–0.5"
Moisture
Watering
Weekly1–1.5"
NeedsModerate High
Root zone
Soil
pH range6–7

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Michihili Napa Cabbage Seeds (Sow Right Seeds)

The upright cylindrical Chinese cabbage (Brassica rapa) that became American napa. White stems with green frilled tops, crisp mild flavor that holds up to long cooking, the cabbage to grow if you want to make kimchi, dumpling wraps, or stir-fries from your own garden.

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Ultra-Fine Garden Insect Netting (4'x25')

Fine mesh blocks cabbage moths and flea beetles without chemicals. Lay over hoops at transplant time and leave on all season.

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Common questions

Napa Cabbage FAQ

Every answer is assembled from this cultivar's own record, so the figures match the rest of the page.

How many days to maturity for Napa Cabbage?

Napa Cabbage takes 70–90 days to reach maturity from transplant.

How far apart should you plant Napa Cabbage?

Space Napa Cabbage 12–18 inches apart, with 18–24 inches between rows.

How much sun do Napa Cabbage need?

Napa Cabbage needs at least 6 hours of direct sun a day.

How much water do Napa Cabbage need?

Napa Cabbage needs 1–1.5 inches of water a week, counting rainfall.

What soil pH do Napa Cabbage need?

Napa Cabbage grows best in soil with a pH of 6–7.

How do you start Napa Cabbage from seed?

Either works. Start seed indoors, or sow straight into the garden.

What temperature do Napa Cabbage seeds need to germinate?

Napa Cabbage seeds germinate best at 75°F, within a workable range of 55–75°F, and take 5–10 days to emerge.

Can you grow Napa Cabbage in containers?

Yes, Napa Cabbage grows well in containers. Use a pot of at least 5 gallons.

When is Napa Cabbage in season?

Napa Cabbage is a cool-season crop, in season during spring and fall in most regions. Plants reach harvest 70–90 days after transplanting and prefer temperatures below 75°F.

Resilience

Plant Health

Stress tolerance, resistance notes, and the most common problems to watch for as plants mature.

Tolerance
Heat: Low Cold: Medium

Watch for these first

Sort
Issue Severity Category Peak window
Black leg (brassica) Leptosphaeria maculans (Phoma lingam)
High Disease Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct.

A soilborne and seedborne fungus that rots the stem near the soil line and produces sunken cankers dotted with tiny dark fruiting bodies. Leaves yellow, plants are stunted, and badly affected plants topple or fail to grow. It is most damaging in cool, moist soil, and secondary rots like white mold and soft rot often follow.

Triggers: Most important in cool, moist soil. Spreads on infected seed and in crop debris; spores splash to stems in wet weather. Tiny dark fruiting bodies (pycnidia) in the stem cankers are diagnostic.

Risk fades when: Drier conditions slow splash spread. Four dry days reduces active risk; stem cankers remain.

Black rot Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris
High Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

A brassica-specific bacterial disease causing yellow V-shaped lesions that start at the leaf margins, blackened veins, and gradual whole-plant decline. Affects brassicas only (including brassica-family root crops via specific overrides). Despite the name, it's unrelated to grape or kiwi black rot.

Triggers: Warm wet weather, dew collecting at leaf margins, splashing water, and infected seed or transplants all favor bacterial spread.

Risk fades when: Moisture drives new infection. Dry weather reduces new pressure, though existing infections and soil inoculum persist.

Black rot symptoms
Black rot on cabbage showing V-shaped lesions at leaf margins — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Blindness Apical meristem damage
High Physiological Apr–May Peak window months: Apr, May.

Blindness in brassicas is when the central growing point (apical meristem) is damaged before head formation, so the plant grows vegetatively but never produces the central head you planted it for. Causes include: severe cold injury below 25°F killing the meristem, cabbage looper or cabbage worm feeding directly on the growing tip, mechanical damage during transplanting, or boron deficiency in extreme cases. The plant otherwise looks healthy — full leaves, vigorous growth — but no head forms. Some plants compensate by producing side shoots from leaf axils (lateral broccoli florets) which can be harvested. Prevention: protect from extreme cold during early growth, control cabbage worms, handle transplants carefully.

Triggers: Meristem damage from cold, pest feeding, mechanical injury, or severe boron deficiency. Plant continues vegetative growth but skips head formation entirely.

Risk fades when: Blind plants won't produce a central head. Sometimes side-shoot florets develop from leaf axils — harvest those. Otherwise the plant is a loss for head production. Compost and replant for fall harvest.

Bolting (brassicas) Vernalization-induced bolting
High Physiological May–Jul Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul.

Brassicas are biennial plants from the Mediterranean — they expect a winter cool period to trigger flowering. When spring transplants experience temperatures below 50°F for 2-8 weeks during early growth, they're 'vernalized' (cold-primed to flower). When warm summer days arrive, the plant skips its head-formation stage and shoots up a flower stalk. Different brassicas need different vernalization periods: long-maturing cabbage needs up to 20 weeks of cold to flower; early Chinese cabbage and cauliflower need as little as 1 week. Plants only respond to cold once they've reached 2-15 true leaves — that's why broccoli set out too early (too small) or too cold often bolts.

Triggers: Per MSU/UMN/UDel Extension: cold exposure below 50°F for 2-8 weeks during 2-15 leaf stage triggers vernalization. Warming to >61°F devernalizes some species (cabbage, Chinese cabbage, kohlrabi) but not others. Distinguish from 'buttoning' (premature small head from too-early cold) which occurs in undersized plants. Bolting hits mature plants AFTER vernalization, driven by heat/stress.

On Napa Cabbage: Young plants exposed to cold, heat, transplant stress, or long days can send up seed stalks before good heads form.

Prevention: Favor fall planting, avoid cold-stressed transplants, and keep moisture steady.

Risk fades when: Once vernalized + stressed, brassicas commit to flowering. The current crop is done. Fall plantings (mid-summer sowing, late-summer transplant) rarely bolt because they vegetatively grow in declining day length and harvest before next year's vernalization.

Clubroot Plasmodiophora brassicae
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A brassica-specific soil-borne disease that forms swollen, distorted roots and causes plants to stunt or wilt during the heat of the day. Infects brassicas only (including brassica-family root crops via specific overrides) — it won't affect carrots, beets, or other non-brassica root vegetables.

Triggers: Moist, acidic soils plus water movement favor the swimming zoospores that infect roots. The pathogen persists in soil for years once established.

Risk fades when: Moisture drives new infection. Dry weather reduces immediate pressure, though existing infections and soil inoculum persist for the long term.

Clubroot symptoms
Plasmodiophora brassicae on cauliflower roots (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Rasbak · CC BY-SA 3.0
Corn earworm / tomato fruitworm (yes, napa cabbage gets these too) Helicoverpa zea (= tomato fruitworm = cotton bollworm = soybean podworm)
High Pest Jul–Sep Peak window months: Jul, Aug, Sep.

Corn earworm is the same species as tomato fruitworm and cotton bollworm — a polyphagous caterpillar that bores into ears of corn through fresh silks, into tomato and pepper fruit, into lettuce heads, and into bean and pea pods. In sweet corn, losses can reach 50%. The species migrates north annually from southern overwintering grounds; in much of the northern US, it does not survive the winter when temperatures drop below 30°F.

Triggers: Overwinters as pupa in top 2-4 inches of soil where winter temps permit. North of I-70 (Illinois IPM): does not reliably overwinter — populations arrive via migration mid-July through September. Females prefer fresh corn silks for egg-laying; older silks rejected.

Risk fades when: In the North (above roughly 40 degrees latitude) the insect does not overwinter, so populations arrive only by summer migration and are wiped out by fall frost, resetting each year; in the South it overwinters as a soil pupa and pressure lasts longer (UMN VegEdge, Wisconsin Hort, Cornell IPM).

Corn earworm / tomato fruitworm symptoms
Corn earworm (Helicoverpa zea) larvae in a damaged ear of corn — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Damping off Pythium spp. / Rhizoctonia solani / Fusarium spp.
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A seedling killer caused by several different fungi working together. It hits vegetables, flowers, herbs, microgreens, and cover-crop seedlings the same way — seeds rot before they emerge, or young seedlings collapse right at the soil line. Wet seed-starting mix and poor airflow in seedling trays are the classic conditions.

Triggers: Wet soil or starting mix, poor drainage, seedlings packed too tightly, contaminated trays or media, and stagnant air all favor damping-off.

Risk fades when: Drying the soil surface and improving airflow slows new spread. Collapsed seedlings don't recover, but the rest of the tray can be saved.

Damping off symptoms
Damping off of coffee seedlings caused by Fusarium sp. — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Imported cabbageworm Pieris rapae
High Pest Jun–Sep Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

The imported cabbageworm is the most important caterpillar pest of brassicas in much of the United States. Adults are the familiar small white butterflies with one or two black spots on each forewing, conspicuous as they flutter low over cabbage and broccoli plants on warm days. The velvety green caterpillars blend into foliage and do their damage hidden among inner leaves, often boring into developing heads.

Triggers: Adults active during daytime in warm weather. Female lays 400-1000 single eggs over 5-20 day adult life. 2-4 generations in north, 6-8 in south. Eggs hatch in 4-10 days; larvae through 5 instars in 10-14 days.

On Napa Cabbage: Caterpillars can feed inside loose heads.

Prevention: Use row cover early and scout before heads close.

Risk fades when: Multiple generations feed through fall until a hard frost; the insect overwinters as a chrysalis in garden debris, so activity ends with freezing weather and fall cleanup of crop residue reduces next year's population (Wisconsin Hort, UMD Extension).

Imported cabbageworm symptoms
Face of a cabbage worm (Pieris rapae) on cauliflower (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: photochem_PA · CC BY 2.0
Root maggot complex Delia spp. complex: D. radicum (cabbage maggot), D. platura (seedcorn maggot), D. florilega, D. planipalpis
High Pest May, Jun, Aug, Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Aug, Sep.

The Delia root-maggot complex includes the cabbage maggot (D. radicum) on brassicas and root crops, the seedcorn maggot (D. platura) on bean/pea/corn seedlings, and several other species. Larvae tunnel into roots, basal stems, and seeds, killing seedlings outright or creating tunnels that ruin root crops for market. A 2021 Oregon industry survey found 100% of root crop growers reported cabbage maggot damage; 44% with 10-25% yield loss.

Triggers: Overwinter as pupae in soil/crop residue. Adults emerge early spring (300-600 GDD base 40°F after Jan 1 in PNW). Cool moist soils favor egg survival; soil >95°F in top 2-3 inches kills eggs. Multiple generations per year. Seedcorn maggot attracted to decaying organic matter — high risk after fresh-incorporated cover crop.

Risk fades when: Cool, wet weather favors root maggots and damage is worst in early spring, dropping to its lowest in midsummer when soil temperatures above about 95 F kill the eggs; a late-summer flight can still injure fall root crops, so risk returns as weather cools (UMaine Extension, Wisconsin Hort, UNH Extension).

Root maggot complex symptoms
Cabbage root maggot (Delia radicum) larva on a brassica root (cropped, resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Rasbak · CC BY-SA 3.0
Tip burn Calcium transport disruption (internal browning)
High Physiological Jun–Aug Peak window months: Jun, Jul, Aug.

Cabbage tipburn (sometimes called 'internal browning') is calcium-transport failure inside the head. Inner leaves are growing fast and demand calcium, but the closed head structure makes them poorly-transpiring — they can't pull calcium up with water flow like outer leaves can. When growth outpaces calcium delivery, the margins of those inner leaves collapse and turn brown. Often unnoticed until the head is cut open. Most common in fast-growing summer cabbage. Slower-maturing varieties and steady moisture both reduce the risk. The same calcium-cascade mechanism causes blossom-end rot in tomatoes and tipburn in lettuce — same physiology, different host.

Triggers: Closed head structure means inner leaves transpire poorly + can't pull calcium with water. Fast-growing summer cabbage most susceptible.

On Napa Cabbage: Rapid growth plus uneven water or calcium movement can brown inner leaf margins.

Prevention: Maintain even soil moisture and avoid growth surges from excess nitrogen.

Risk fades when: Once internal browning forms, the head is compromised. Cut and discard affected portions or compost. Plant slow-maturing varieties and provide steady moisture for next planting.

White mold / Sclerotinia (brassica) Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, Sclerotinia minor
High Disease Jul–Sep Peak window months: Jul, Aug, Sep.

A watery soft rot of stems, lower leaves, and heads. Infected tissue turns into a soft, watery decay, plants wilt and collapse, and dense white cottony growth with hard black resting bodies forms on and inside the stems. It is favored by cool, moist conditions and wet soil, and the resting bodies survive in soil for years.

Triggers: S. minor infects stems and leaves touching the soil; S. sclerotiorum also forms small mushroom-like apothecia that release airborne spores infecting upper leaves and flowers. Wet conditions and dense canopies raise risk; sclerotia persist in soil for years.

Risk fades when: Drying conditions slow new infection. Five dry days exits the active window; established rot does not reverse and sclerotia persist in soil.

Alternaria leaf spot Alternaria brassicicola / A. brassicae / A. raphani
Moderate Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A brassica-specific Alternaria disease that causes dark target-like spots on the leaves and rot in the heads of cabbage-family crops. It infects brassicas only (including brassica-family root crops like turnips and radishes via specific overrides) — it won't show up on carrots or beets.

Triggers: Cool to warm wet conditions, wind, rain, and infected seed or plant debris all favor spread and infection.

Risk fades when: Moisture drives new infection and spread. Dry weather reduces new pressure, though existing infections and inoculum in the soil persist.

Alternaria leaf spot symptoms
Alternaria brassicicola on Chinese kale (Brassica alboglabra) — target-ring leaf lesions (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: Seemadua, S., Department of Agriculture, Thailand / PaDIL · CC BY 3.0 AU
Aphids Multiple genera: Myzus persicae (green peach aphid), Aphis gossypii (melon aphid), Macrosiphum euphorbiae (potato aphid), Brevicoryne brassicae (cabbage aphid)
Moderate Pest May, Jun, Sep, Oct Peak window months: May, Jun, Sep, Oct.

Aphids are soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that cluster on tender new growth. Most established plants tolerate moderate populations and will outgrow damage on their own, but aphids are the most important plant virus vectors in the garden, transmitting more than 100 plant viruses including potato leafroll, cucumber mosaic, and turnip mosaic. Honeydew excreted while feeding supports sooty mold growth and attracts ants that protect aphids from natural enemies.

Triggers: Optimal development at ~75°F (green peach aphid) per UC IPM Floriculture; melon aphid develops fastest above 75°F. Many species heat-intolerant above 90°F and crash in mid-summer. Soft new growth and over-fertilization with high N favor population buildup. Females give live birth parthenogenetically most of growing season — one generation in ~1 week under optimal conditions.

Risk fades when: Per UC IPM and Clemson HGIC, populations crash in mid-summer heat (>90°F) for many species, return in cooler conditions

Aphids symptoms
Aphis pomi (green apple aphid) colony on crab apple stem (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: InfluentialPoints · CC BY 3.0
Downy mildew (brassica) Hyaloperonospora parasitica
Moderate Disease Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct.

A cool-weather foliar disease most damaging on seedlings and young plants. It shows as faint yellow spots on the upper leaf surface with a white to gray fuzzy growth on the underside. On heads and curds it can cause dark speckling that downgrades quality. It is driven by cool temperatures, leaf wetness, and high humidity.

Triggers: Favored by cool temperatures and prolonged leaf wetness or high humidity. Most serious on seedlings, where it can kill young plants; on older plants it spots leaves and can speckle heads.

Risk fades when: Warm, dry weather suppresses it. Three dry days with highs above 75°F exits the active window; spotted leaves stay damaged.

Flea beetles Phyllotreta cruciferae (crucifer), Epitrix spp. (potato/tuber/eggplant), Phyllotreta striolata (striped)
Moderate Pest May–Jun Peak window months: May, Jun.

Flea beetles are small (1/16-inch) shiny beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed. They chew small round 'shothole' or 'pinhole' damage in leaves and can destroy emerging cotyledons of broccoli or eggplant in 24 hours. Most species are host-family specific — crucifer flea beetle on brassicas, tuber flea beetle on potatoes, eggplant flea beetle on solanaceous crops.

Triggers: Overwinter as adults in leaf litter and field margins. Active at mid- to late-spring temperatures. Warm winter → higher next-spring populations (NC State). Hot dry conditions amplify damage on stressed seedlings.

Risk fades when: UMN: 1-2 generations in Minnesota, populations crash after mid-June

Flea beetles symptoms
Crucifer flea beetle (Phyllotreta cruciferae) (cropped, resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: AfroBrazilian · CC BY-SA 4.0
Fusarium yellows (cabbage) Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. conglutinans
Moderate Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

A warm-soil wilt that turns leaves a dull yellow-green, often more on one side of the plant, with downward curling and leaf drop from the bottom up. Cutting the stem shows brown discoloration of the water-conducting tissue. Unlike most brassica diseases it is favored by warm soil, and the fungus persists in soil for years.

Triggers: Favored by warm soil (roughly 80-90°F). The fungus enters through the roots and clogs the water-conducting tissue, causing one-sided yellowing and wilt. It survives in soil for many years; resistant cabbage varieties are the main defense.

Risk fades when: Activity slows as soils cool below about 75°F. Seasonal pressure fades, but the fungus persists in the soil for many years.

Hollow stem Boron deficiency or rapid-growth hollowing
Moderate Physiological Jun–Jul Peak window months: Jun, Jul.

Hollow stem is what it sounds like — the main stem of broccoli or cauliflower develops a cavity, usually visible when you cut the head off. There are two distinct causes that look slightly different inside. Boron deficiency hollow has watery tissue that browns or blackens over time, with visible brown patches in the stem wall. Rapid-growth hollow (from excess nitrogen, hot weather, or wide spacing) has clean bright tissue inside the cavity — no browning. Boron deficiency is most common in sandy soils with low organic matter where boron leaches out easily, or in high-pH soils where boron is locked up. Excess nitrogen pushes the plant to grow faster than the central stem can keep up, leaving the cavity. Wider plant spacing (16+ inches) increases the per-plant nutrients available, which accelerates growth and increases hollow risk. The fix is the opposite: close spacing (10-12 inches), moderate nitrogen (no more than 3.5 lb N per 1000 sq ft), and a soil test for boron levels. If the test shows low boron, side-dress with a small amount — but be cautious because boron toxicity is just as serious as deficiency.

Triggers: Per MSU/UDel/WSU/UMN Extension: dual cause. Boron deficiency hollow shows brown/black discolored tissue inside (visible in stem wall). Rapid-growth hollow shows clean bright tissue inside. Sandy low-OM soils, high pH (above 7), and excessive nitrogen + wide spacing (16+ inches) all contribute. Spacing 10-12 inches reduces incidence significantly.

Risk fades when: Hollow stem doesn't make broccoli inedible — cut around the cavity. For next planting: soil test for boron, narrow spacing to 10-12 inches, moderate nitrogen, maintain pH 6.0-6.8. If boron test shows below 1 ppm, side-dress carefully; boron toxicity is just as serious as deficiency.

Slugs and snails Cornu aspersum (brown garden snail), Deroceras reticulatum (gray garden slug), Limax maximus, Arion spp.
Moderate Pest Apr, May, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Apr, May, Sep, Oct.

Slugs and snails are nocturnal mollusks that chew irregular holes in leaves and clip off succulent seedlings. They leave characteristic silvery slime trails. Hermaphroditic and prolific, brown garden snails lay around 80 eggs per month for up to six clutches per year.

Triggers: Active at night and early morning in damp conditions. Coastal CA and southeast — active year-round. Spring rains and dense ground cover (mulch, debris, weeds) create harborage.

Risk fades when: Hot, dry summer weather drives slugs and snails into inactivity, so risk drops sharply once conditions turn warm and dry; populations are highest in cool, wet spring and fall, and in mild-winter coastal regions they can stay active year-round (UMN Extension, Penn State, UC IPM).

Slugs and snails symptoms
Gray garden slug (Deroceras reticulatum) on foliage (resized, converted to WebP) — Photo: AfroBrazilian · CC BY-SA 3.0
Thrips Frankliniella occidentalis (western flower thrips), F. tritici (eastern flower thrips), F. fusca (tobacco thrips), Thrips tabaci (onion thrips)
Moderate Pest Mar–May Peak window months: Mar, Apr, May.

Thrips are tiny (1/16 inch) slender insects with fringed wings that puncture and rasp leaf surfaces, leaving silver stippling with black frass dots. The biggest concern is virus vectoring: western flower thrips is the principal vector of tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV) and impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV), which affect more than 600 plant species. Greenhouse and high tunnel infestations can be devastating.

Triggers: Hot dry weather; greenhouse/high tunnel environments. Female lays eggs inside leaf tissue. 2 larval stages feed; 2 non-feeding pupal stages in soil/litter. Lifecycle 10-21 days. Many overlapping generations. Bridge crops (spring wheat, peach, strawberry per NC State) build populations before vegetable hosts available.

Risk fades when: Infestations are worst in hot, dry weather; cool conditions slow development and heavy rain or overhead irrigation knocks populations down sharply, so risk fades as the weather turns cool and wet and rebuilds the following spring (UK Entomology, Cornell IPM).

Thrips symptoms
Thrips feeding injury on pole bean leaves — silvery stippling with dark fecal specks — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Leafminers Liriomyza sativae, Liriomyza trifolii, Pegomya hyoscyami (spinach), Phytomyza gymnostoma (allium)
Low Pest May–Jul Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul.

Leafminers are tiny fly larvae that feed between the upper and lower surfaces of leaves, creating winding pale tunnels or blotchy patches. They rarely kill plants but can ruin the marketability of leafy greens grown for foliage. Allium leafminer is an emerging pest in the eastern US (first detected in Pennsylvania in 2017) that damages onions, garlic, leeks, and chives.

Triggers: Liriomyza trifolii: 1 generation in ~1 month at typical greenhouse temps, 14 days at 95°F, 64 days at 59°F (UC IPM). Adults active mid-day. Allium leafminer emerges late March-early April, second flight September-October. Broad-spectrum insecticides trigger outbreaks by killing parasitoids.

Risk fades when: Parasitic wasps usually bring populations down as the season progresses unless broad-spectrum sprays disrupt them; damage peaks in warm spring and summer flushes and eases in cooler weather, so risk fades with natural-enemy buildup and falling temperatures (USU Extension, PNW Pest Handbook, UC IPM).

Leafminers symptoms
Leafminer serpentine mines on a cucurbit leaf — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
10 more issues below · Show all 20 ↓
Plant relationships

Companion Planting

Helpful neighbors can support growth or deter pests. Keep antagonistic plants separated to reduce stress and competition.

Good companions
Sweet Alyssum
Small flowers support predators and parasitoids used in aphid and caterpillar IPM around brassicas.
What it does4
Beneficial insects Research supported
Tiny flowers are well suited to hoverflies and other small beneficial insects; hoverfly larvae prey on aphids.
Iowa State Extension, pepper damage reduction; Eric Brennan USDA, 500-1000 transplants/acre complete aphid control in romaine via hoverflies
Living mulch Research supported
Low spreading growth covers bare soil, holds moisture and crowds out weeds, while the flowers feed the insects that eat aphids. USDA research in organic lettuce showed it can be grown between crop rows without costing yield.
Brennan 2013 (Biological Control 65:302-311); Brennan 2016; Bugg et al. 2008 (UC ANR 8285)
Trap crop
Sometimes planted to pull leaf miners off lettuce, chard and beet greens. What alyssum is actually known for is feeding aphid-eating insects, not trapping pests.
No evidence was found for alyssum diverting leaf miners. The extensively documented effect is hoverfly recruitment for aphid control, which is this plant's beneficial-insect-habitat function.
Pollinators
Honey-scented flowers attract bees, butterflies, flower flies.
Dill
Umbel flowers can support beneficial insects around brassica beds when allowed to bloom.
Cilantro Coriander Slow Bolt
Bolting flowers can support beneficial insects while occupying bed edges near brassicas.
Small-flowered insectary plants such as sweet alyssum, dill, and cilantro can support predators and parasitoids used in aphid and caterpillar IPM; avoid same-family brassica companions because they share clubroot and caterpillar pressure.
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What you'll need

Growing Supplies

Hand-picked for your Napa Cabbage, with the extension research behind every recommendation.

Cool-season brassica seed-starting tray

UMN Extension says gardeners should start cabbage indoors for a spring-planted summer crop because a late direct-seeded crop would mature during the hottest part of summer, reducing quality. Transplants get crops out of the ground and into early production. Note that brassicas are cool-season crops and germinate well at 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, so a heat mat is not necessary and can actually push germination too fast and produce weak seedlings. Use the cell tray and grow light, but skip the heat mat for brassica starts.

Source: UMN Extension

Our pick

Seedling Heat Mat + Thermostat Combo

Same trusted mat with a digital thermostat so you can dial in exact soil temperature. Peppers want 80-85°F, tomatoes 75-80°F.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Seed starting tray + heat mat

For crops started indoors before transplanting, this tray-and-mat combo improves germination consistency. Bottom heat speeds and evens germination; warm-season crops in particular want it, while cool-season transplants germinate fine at the lower end of the range. Look for a rigid tray, cell inserts with drainage, and a mat paired with a thermostat.

Source: Utah State University Extension; Iowa State University Extension; Mississippi State University Extension

Our pick

Seedling Heat Mat + Thermostat Combo

Same trusted mat with a digital thermostat so you can dial in exact soil temperature. Peppers want 80-85°F, tomatoes 75-80°F.

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Mulch / landscape fabric

Nearly every garden benefits from mulch for weed suppression, moisture conservation, and soil temperature moderation. For most home gardeners, quality organic mulch is the better buy over landscape fabric.

Source: Penn State Extension; Wisconsin Horticulture; Illinois Extension

Our pick

Cleaned Wheat Straw Mulch (3 cu ft, ~20 lbs)

Thoroughly cleaned wheat straw at 3 cubic feet, marketed specifically for vegetable gardens rather than animal bedding or decoration. Better per-pound economics than the 1 cu ft option, with the same extension-recommended material. Strong sales volume (2K+ bought past month) supports product consistency.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Drip irrigation / soaker hose kit

Every gardener benefits from putting water at the root zone instead of on the leaves, because drip and soaker systems reduce foliar disease pressure by limiting leaf wetness and soil splash. A quality kit should include a backflow preventer, filter, pressure reducer, and UV-resistant tubing.

Source: Iowa State University Extension; Colorado State University Extension; UMass Extension

Our pick

Complete Garden Drip Irrigation Kit

Designed for beginners with a step-by-step setup guide. Adjustable emitters, both tubing sizes, and all connectors included.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Research

Sources

Reference material and extension guidance used to build this growing guide.

university UMN Extension, Growing Chinese Cabbageseed catalog Johnny's Seeds, Napa Cabbageuniversity UMN Extension, Growing Chinese (Napa) Cabbage and Bok Choyuniversity University of Arkansas Extension, Chinese Cabbage (PDF)seed catalog Johnny's Selected Seeds, Chinese (Napa) Cabbage Key Growing Informationuniversity Clemson HGIC - Cabbage & Chinese Cabbageuniversity Clemson HGIC - Chinese Vegetablesuniversity Clemson HGIC - Cabbage, Broccoli & Other Cole Crop Insect Pestsuniversity Oregon State Extension - Encouraging beneficial insects in the gardenseed catalog Johnny's Selected Seeds - Napa Cabbage
Internal links

Napa Cabbage Planting Dates by Zone

Jump to your USDA zone for frost dates, start-indoors timing, and a full monthly planting calendar.

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