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Medium Red Clover Cover Crop
Photo: "Crimson Clover Cover crop" by Michele Dorsey Walfred · CC BY 2.0

Medium Red Clover Cover Crop

Standard · Fabaceae

Medium red clover is a fast-establishing cool-season legume cover crop used to fix nitrogen, shade out weeds, and improve tilth with a fibrous root system and modest taproot. Stands typically reach about 1-2 feet and bloom rosy red to magenta when allowed to mature. As a short-lived perennial or biennial, it is most useful in vegetable rotations where it can overwinter, feed pollinators, and then be mowed or incorporated before the next crop. Key facts: 60–75 days to maturity from direct sowing, 6+ hours of sun, 6–8" spacing. Can be grown in containers with care (3+ gallon minimum).

Updated June 1, 2026 · Backed by 2 cited sources
Overview

At a Glance

The essentials first: timing, light, spacing, seed-starting, container fit, and overall size.

Days to maturity
60–75 days
from direct sowing
Sun
6+ hours
Full Sun, 6-8 Hours
Spacing
6–8"
between plants
In practice

Dense sowing improves weed suppression; wider spacing is only needed in mixed plantings.

Seed start
0 weeks
before transplant
Container
Possible
Needs 3+ gal minimum
Height
1–2 ft
at maturity
Planting window

Zone Planting Guide

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Season sequence

Medium Red Clover Cover Crop Cycle

This crop holds the bed for longer than one season, so the sequence is not tied to a single calendar year.

  1. 1
    Frost seed, interseed, or late-summer seed
    Use red clover as a short-lived perennial/biennial legume cover where nitrogen, soil cover, and insectary value are desired.
  2. 2
    Establishment and overwintering
    Allow enough time for stand establishment; clip if needed to manage competition and prepare for winter.
  3. 3
    Spring second-season bloom or earlier if the vegetable schedule requires
    Terminate around mid-bloom for peak nitrogen contribution, or earlier if crop timing is more important.
  4. 4
    After termination
    Allow residue to decompose before direct seeding; control regrowth because red clover can be hard to kill mechanically.
Common questions

Medium Red Clover FAQ

Every answer is assembled from this cultivar's own record, so the figures match the rest of the page.

How many days to maturity for Medium Red Clover Cover Crop?

Medium Red Clover takes 60–75 days to reach maturity from direct sowing.

How far apart should you plant Medium Red Clover Cover Crop?

Space Medium Red Clover 6–8 inches apart, with 6–12 inches between rows.

How much sun do Medium Red Clover Cover Crop need?

Medium Red Clover needs at least 6 hours of direct sun a day.

How much water do Medium Red Clover Cover Crop need?

Medium Red Clover needs 0.75–1.25 inches of water a week, counting rainfall.

What soil pH do Medium Red Clover Cover Crop need?

Medium Red Clover grows best in soil with a pH of 6–7, ideally around 6.4.

How tall do Medium Red Clover Cover Crop get?

Medium Red Clover reaches 1–2 feet at maturity.

How do you start Medium Red Clover Cover Crop from seed?

Sow seed straight into the garden once the soil reaches 45°F.

What temperature do Medium Red Clover Cover Crop seeds need to germinate?

Medium Red Clover seeds germinate best at 65°F, within a workable range of 45–85°F, and take 7–10 days to emerge.

Can you grow Medium Red Clover Cover Crop in containers?

Medium Red Clover can be grown in containers with extra care. Use a pot of at least 3 gallons; 5 gallons is better.

When is Medium Red Clover Cover Crop in season?

Medium Red Clover is a cool-season crop, in season during spring and fall in most regions. Plants reach harvest 60–75 days after direct sowing and prefer temperatures below 75°F.

Resilience

Plant Health

Stress tolerance, resistance notes, and the most common problems to watch for as plants mature.

Tolerance
Heat: Moderate Cold: Hardy Drought: Moderate

Watch for these first

Sort
Issue Severity Category Peak window
Crown rot Sclerotinia trifoliorum
High Disease Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct.

Sclerotinia crown and stem rot on clovers, alfalfa, vetches, and related forage legumes. A cool, wet-season disease that can kill seedlings or wipe out patches after fall establishment, wet winters, or prolonged snow cover.

Triggers: Cool moist weather, fall seeding, wet soils, dense canopy, poor air circulation, and prolonged snow cover all favor disease.

On Medium Red Clover: Poor drainage and wet winter or spring conditions

Prevention: Use well-drained sites and avoid prolonged saturation

Risk fades when: Drier conditions reduce active infection pressure, though stand damage may already be visible by spring.

Damping off Pythium spp. / Rhizoctonia solani / Fusarium spp.
High Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A seedling killer caused by several different fungi working together. It hits vegetables, flowers, herbs, microgreens, and cover-crop seedlings the same way — seeds rot before they emerge, or young seedlings collapse right at the soil line. Wet seed-starting mix and poor airflow in seedling trays are the classic conditions.

Triggers: Wet soil or starting mix, poor drainage, seedlings packed too tightly, contaminated trays or media, and stagnant air all favor damping-off.

Risk fades when: Drying the soil surface and improving airflow slows new spread. Collapsed seedlings don't recover, but the rest of the tray can be saved.

Damping off symptoms
Damping off of coffee seedlings caused by Fusarium sp. — Photo: Scot Nelson · CC0 1.0
Common leaf spot (clover & alfalfa) Pseudopeziza medicaginis, Pseudopeziza trifolii
Moderate Disease May–Sep Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep.

The most common leaf disease of alfalfa and clover cover crops. It makes small, dark brown to black circular spots with slightly fringed edges, often with a tiny raised fruiting disk in the center. Spots start on the lower leaves and move up, and infected leaves yellow and drop, thinning the stand. It is favored by cool, moist weather and is worst in spring and fall.

Triggers: The fungus overwinters in leaf debris and spreads by spores during cool, moist weather. Dry, warm summer weather slows it; cool, moist fall conditions favor a resurgence. A dense canopy that traps humidity raises risk.

Risk fades when: Dry, warm weather slows it. Two days above 82°F or three dry days exits the active window; spotted leaves stay damaged.

Poor establishment Mississippi State Extension states the case in one line: plant establishment is the most critical aspect in any planting.
Moderate Physiological Mar, Apr, May, Aug, Sep, Oct Peak window months: Mar, Apr, May, Aug, Sep, Oct.

Mississippi State Extension states the case in one line: plant establishment is the most critical aspect in any planting. A cover crop that comes up thin never catches up, and every benefit you sowed it for - nitrogen, biomass, erosion control, weed suppression - scales with the stand you got. Almost all of it is decided in the first week. Seed must reach mineral soil and stay in contact with it. Iowa State is emphatic that seedbed firmness is very important, recommending a cultipacker or roller on tilled seedbeds before planting, then broadcasting onto that firm bed and rolling again for shallow coverage. Depth matters as much as contact: small seed buried too deep never emerges, and Iowa State caps forage seeding depth at half an inch. Broadcast seed sitting loose on a dry surface simply desiccates, which is why MSU says to raise broadcast seeding rates by 25 to 50 percent over drilled rates to compensate for poor seed-to-soil contact and uneven distribution. Then there is temperature. Warm-season species and mixes sown into cool soil sit and rot rather than germinate. And weeds: a crop that emerges into competition thins before it ever closes canopy.

Triggers: Mississippi State Extension: plant establishment is the most critical aspect in any planting; poor seed quality results in uneven stands, stunted growth and limited benefits, so use seed with a recent test date, high germination and pure-seed percentages, and few weed seeds. Increase broadcast seeding rates by 25 to 50 percent over drilled rates to compensate for poor seed-to-soil contact and poor uniformity of distribution; a cultipacker is recommended when broadcast seeding. Broadcasting is not recommended when planting multiple species, because different species require different seeding depths - this is the characteristic failure of a mixed-species stand. Legumes require the correct rhizobium inoculant to fix nitrogen, and inoculant plus fungicide treatment can account for a large fraction of bag weight, reducing actual pure live seed. Iowa State Extension: seedbed firmness is very important; use a cultipacker or roller on tilled seedbeds before planting, broadcast onto a firm tilled seedbed and cultipack or roll for shallow seed coverage and seed-to-soil contact; control seeding depth to no deeper than half an inch; control weeds before planting, since weeds compete with young seedlings for moisture and light. NC State Extension: drill seeding is often the most consistent method, providing improved uniformity and seed-to-soil contact; planting by the recommended dates is crucial for proper establishment, stand and biomass. NRCS defines a weed-free seedbed as not exceeding one weed seedling per square foot at planting. Warm-season species and mixes will not germinate or thrive in cold soil.

On Medium Red Clover: Seed sown too deep or into a loose dry seedbed

Prevention: Seed shallow into a firm bed and press seed for good contact

Risk fades when: A thin stand does not thicken. Once emergence is over, the options are to overseed into the gaps or to accept reduced benefit and terminate on schedule. Fix it at sowing instead. Firm the seedbed before you sow - roll or cultipack a tilled bed. Sow shallow, no deeper than half an inch for small seed, and press or roll the seed in afterward so it contacts mineral soil rather than sitting in loose dust or on top of residue. If broadcasting rather than drilling, raise the seeding rate by 25 to 50 percent. Wait for the right soil temperature: warm-season species and warm-season mixes sown into cool soil will not germinate. Sow into moisture, or irrigate after sowing. Control weeds before planting, not after. Inoculate legume seed with the correct rhizobium. And do not broadcast a multi-species mix if you can drill it, because the species need different depths and one of them will always be wrong.

Rust (clover & alfalfa) Uromyces striatus, Uromyces trifolii
Moderate Disease May–Aug Peak window months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug.

A rust of alfalfa and clover cover crops that makes small reddish-brown pustules on both leaf surfaces and sometimes on stems. The pustules rupture and release powdery spores, and heavy infection yellows and drops leaves, weakening the stand. It is favored by humid weather and extended leaf wetness.

Triggers: Favored by humidity and extended leaf wetness. Reddish-brown pustules on both leaf surfaces release powdery spores spread by wind. Often associated with nearby spurge as an alternate host.

Risk fades when: Hot or dry weather slows rust. Two days above 88°F or three dry days exits the active window; existing pustules remain.

Weed competition Thin stand during early establishment
Moderate Physiological No data

Thin stand during early establishment

On Medium Red Clover: Thin stand during early establishment

Prevention: Increase seeding density and irrigate lightly until seedlings are anchored

Feeding & picking

Nutrition & Harvest

How hungry the plant is, what ripe harvest looks like, and how long the crop keeps after picking.

Feeding
Nutrition
Feeding intensityLight feeder
RecipesWorm Castings Topdress, Compost Tea
Timing
Harvest

Terminate or mow when plants are dense and in bud to early bloom, before stems become overly fibrous.

Expected yield0.05–0.15 lbs/plant
Storage Use immediately as chop-and-drop mulch, compost feedstock, or tilled-in green manure.
Plant relationships

Companion Planting

Helpful neighbors can support growth or deter pests. Keep antagonistic plants separated to reduce stress and competition.

Good companions
Borage
Adds pollinator support while cover crop roots build soil structure
What it does4
Pollinators Research supported
Produces abundant nectar over a long bloom period and attracts honeybees, bumblebees, and native bees.
UMN strawberry pollination study, confirmed increased pollinator visits near borage
Beneficial insects Research supported
Attracts parasitic braconid wasps (natural enemy of tomato hornworm), nabid bugs, hoverflies. Host plant for lacewings.
Journal of Apicultural Science 2020
Pest deterrent
Can help against hornworms and cabbage worms indirectly. The flowers draw in small wasps that lay eggs inside the caterpillars and kill them. This only works where those wasps already live, so it is not guaranteed in every garden.
The widely repeated claim that borage scent repels tomato hornworms has no controlled study behind it. What is supported is parasitoid recruitment, which is a different mechanism and is covered by this plant's beneficial-insect-habitat function. Direct repellence would require close planting; predator recruitment works at garden scale.
Soil building Extension recommended
Leaves are high in potassium and calcium and break down fast, which makes them good compost material or chopped mulch around other plants.
The claim that borage's deep roots pull nutrients up from the subsoil was removed. That idea, called dynamic accumulation, traces to a single page in a 1986 book and has no research behind it. A Cornell field trial found that what a plant holds simply tracks what is already in the soil around it. The compost and mulch value is real and is what remains.
University of California ANR, garden myths review (dynamic accumulators)
French Marigold
Pairs well at bed edges to increase beneficial-insect activity
What it does4
Nematodes Research supported
Roots release alpha-terthienyl and related compounds that can suppress root-knot nematodes (microscopic soil worms) when marigolds are grown densely enough for active root/nematode interaction.
Most effective as a dense cover-crop-style stand for a full season before rotating to vegetables. Casual interplanting should not be presented as nematode control.
Ploeg 2000, 2002; Hooks et al. 2010; Gommers & Bakker 1988
Pest deterrent Extension recommended
Pungent scent deters deer, rabbits, whiteflies. Volatile compounds mask vegetable scent from pest insects.
UMN Extension; Illinois Extension
Pollinators
Attracts bees, butterflies, hoverflies throughout long bloom season.
Beneficial insects
Attracts ladybugs, parasitic wasps, lacewings.
Calendula
Adds pollinator forage without heavy competition in mixed beds
What it does4
Trap crop
Can pull aphids, whiteflies and thrips onto itself so they leave your crop alone. Widely done by gardeners, but not tested the way nasturtium has been.
Graded research-supported previously. No controlled trial was located for calendula trap cropping specifically; the practice rests on grower reports. Nasturtium is the better-evidenced trap crop for aphids.
Beneficial insects
Attracts ladybugs, lacewings, hoverflies, minute pirate bugs, parasitic wasps.
Pest deterrent Research supported
Intercropping with white cabbage significantly reduced diamondback moth larvae and pupae compared with a cabbage monoculture, and calendula was the most effective intercrop tested.
Documented for brassicas in a three-year intercropping trial. This is not evidence of general pest control on other crops, and calendula should not be presented as a nematode treatment.
Jankowska 2010, Vegetable Crops Research Bulletin
Pest deterrent
Sometimes said to keep asparagus beetles and tomato hornworms away by scent. Treat this as traditional garden advice rather than reliable pest control.
No controlled evidence was found for direct repellence by calendula. Its supported contribution is drawing predatory and parasitoid insects, which is covered by its beneficial-insect-habitat function.
Mammoth Sunflower
Works in biodiversity strips around cover-cropped areas
What it does3
Living trellis Research supported
Sturdy stems support pole beans, cucumbers. Plant 2-3 weeks before beans. Allow 4-5 inch stem diameter before training climbers.
Three Sisters variant documented.
Pollinators
Large flower heads attract diverse bees, butterflies. Major late-season nectar source.
Wildlife food
Seeds feed finches, songbirds through winter if left standing.
Crimson Clover
Useful in rotational or mixed cover-crop plantings when timing fits
What it does4
Soil building Research supported
Adds 50 to 125 lbs of nitrogen per acre, with the most nitrogen if you let it reach late bloom or early seed set. Cutting it down 30 days earlier than that costs you up to 50 lbs per acre.
Clark 2007, Managing Cover Crops Profitably, 3rd ed. (SARE)
Soil building
Leafy growth adds organic matter. Root system prevents erosion. Improves soil structure.
Weed control Research supported
Dense growth smothers winter weeds. The dead plant material left behind suppresses spring weeds (most effective mixed with small grain like rye).
Clark 2007, Managing Cover Crops Profitably, 3rd ed. (SARE)
Pollinators Extension recommended
Elongated deep red blossoms, roughly half an inch to an inch long, produce abundant nectar for bees and other beneficial insects.
MSU Extension; USDA NRCS
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What you'll need

Growing Supplies

Hand-picked for your Medium Red Clover, with the extension research behind every recommendation.

Mulch / landscape fabric

Nearly every garden benefits from mulch for weed suppression, moisture conservation, and soil temperature moderation. For most home gardeners, quality organic mulch is the better buy over landscape fabric.

Source: Penn State Extension; Wisconsin Horticulture; Illinois Extension

Our pick

Cleaned Wheat Straw Mulch (3 cu ft, ~20 lbs)

Thoroughly cleaned wheat straw at 3 cubic feet, marketed specifically for vegetable gardens rather than animal bedding or decoration. Better per-pound economics than the 1 cu ft option, with the same extension-recommended material. Strong sales volume (2K+ bought past month) supports product consistency.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Drip irrigation / soaker hose kit

Every gardener benefits from putting water at the root zone instead of on the leaves, because drip and soaker systems reduce foliar disease pressure by limiting leaf wetness and soil splash. A quality kit should include a backflow preventer, filter, pressure reducer, and UV-resistant tubing.

Source: Iowa State University Extension; Colorado State University Extension; UMass Extension

Our pick

Complete Garden Drip Irrigation Kit

Designed for beginners with a step-by-step setup guide. Adjustable emitters, both tubing sizes, and all connectors included.

paid link ?When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research. When you shop on Amazon using this link, SoilStack earns a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's how we keep the site free and the calendar ad-free. Every product on this page was hand-selected based on university extension research.
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Row cover / frost blanket

Row cover adds frost protection, speeds early growth, and physically excludes insect pests without spraying. Look for spun-bonded fabric with a stated weight and frost rating, UV resistance, and enough width for hoops or low tunnels.

Source: University of Maryland Extension; University of New Hampshire Extension; Colorado State University Extension

Our pick

Frost Blanket (10'x30')

Thicker 1.2 oz fabric rated to protect down to 28°F. Covers 300 sq ft — enough for multiple raised beds in a single sheet.

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Garden shade cloth

K-State Research and Extension and University of Maryland Extension recommend shade cloth as a heat-management tool for vegetable gardens, with 30 percent shade rating most effective for tomatoes, peppers, and fruiting crops, and 40 to 50 percent for protecting heat-sensitive greens during hot summer months. University of Delaware research found 30 percent black shade cloth tripled marketable yield for bell peppers compared to unshaded plants, and Purdue trials showed shade cloth reduced maximum daily temperatures by 8 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Choose knitted polyethylene with reinforced grommets every 18 to 24 inches, mount on hoops or a frame with open sides for airflow, and remove or vent during prolonged wet weather to avoid increased humidity in the canopy.

Source: K-State Research and Extension; University of Maryland Extension; University of Delaware Cooperative Extension; Purdue University Extension

Our pick

30% Sun-Block Shade Cloth (6x10 ft)

Same 30 percent rating in the typical home-garden size that fits a 4 by 8 raised bed plus working overhang. Knitted polyethylene with grommets for tie-down. Strong volume signal (3.8K reviews) supports consistent product quality across orders.

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Research

Sources

Reference material and extension guidance used to build this growing guide.

Internal links

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